1962 Willys pickup 4.3 conversion - clutch linkage issues

Mark's 62

Gear Grinder
Sep 28, 2021
9
Indiana
First Name
Mark
Willys Model
  1. Pickup
Willys Year:
  1. 1962
Decided to replace my 226 engine with a 4.3 Chevy engine. Purchased the Novak transmission adaptor but I am having issues with the clutch linkage. Is a hydraulic clutch linkage system a good idea. Any other ideas or options?
 
Hi Mark
I have been looking at the same thing
What did you have to do to the firewall to get
the 4.3 in ?
was the 4.3 a new engine or a junk yard find?

Overall,,, How hard was it to replace the engine ???
 
Personally would reach out to Novak directly and work with them.

They might have a known solution for what your seeing.

Their contact page says to call them.


 
Hi Mark
I have been looking at the same thing
What did you have to do to the firewall to get
the 4.3 in ?
was the 4.3 a new engine or a junk yard find?

Overall,,, How hard was it to replace the engine ???

Cut a small hole in the firewall for the distributor.

Bought a used 1986 engine from a private individual. The 1985 and 1986 4.3 engines have carburetors so I looked for those years because I didn't want to deal with fuel injection. You would need to run a computer if you go with fuel injection.

Look up Novak Adapters and that will pretty much walk you thru what you need to know. I'm currently trying to figure out linkage issues.
 
Personally would reach out to Novak directly and work with them.

They might have a known solution for what your seeing.

Their contact page says to call them.


Thank you. Novak said to convert to hydraulic but I just wondered if anyone had any experience with hydraulic linkages or if there was something better.
 
Got it.

I like hydraulic set ups, but I have zero experience with a Willys swap. Our race cars had a really simple hydraulic clutch set up. But was a hanging pedal deal so easier to deal with the pedal. It basically was square stock and some brackets and fittings and heim joints, really reliable set up, don't recall any issues with them, and they got removed each year and gone over.

It looks pretty nice, just have to address how the pedal is going to work out.

About halfway down this page.


Screenshot_20231215_073130_Chrome.jpg
 
I don't know how different the 4.3 Chevy is, but I just finished the install of a Buick oddfire 225 V6 into my 57' PU. I was able to make the stock pedal and cross-shaft work (with some mods). Made a new bracket to move the trans mount to line up with the stock frame side pivot. Then cut and rewelded the linkage arm to line up. Made a new linkage with a couple of heim rod ends. Works great.
DSC01611.JPGDSC01612.JPGDSC01613.JPGDSC01614.JPG
 
I don't know how different the 4.3 Chevy is, but I just finished the install of a Buick oddfire 225 V6 into my 57' PU. I was able to make the stock pedal and cross-shaft work (with some mods). Made a new bracket to move the trans mount to line up with the stock frame side pivot. Then cut and rewelded the linkage arm to line up. Made a new linkage with a couple of heim rod ends. Works great.
View attachment 155661View attachment 155662View attachment 155663View attachment 155664
Good pictures Gary. That is what I hope to do with my wagon and a NP435.
 
Put the 4.3 in my 59. Bought crate engine ( Spokane area rebuilder ) can get name - great outfit & pricing.
Ordered up and put on a 500 4bbl carb and manifold ( speedway mtrs )- bolted on to the block replacing the tbi/and newer manifolds ( but chk yr olds for compatibility). Simple bolt on replacement, but used a 2" carb riser to clear the distributor mount.
Moved the motor & tranny 2 1/2" forward ( Novak motor mounts, simple refab of tranny mount, holes drilled onto front ridge of original cross member ( was 2 1/2 forward adjustment, then transmission footpedal mount fabbed for adjustment, as was the T/C crossover mount - easy fabs, but I had my frame welder do all that at one time, motor mounts and tranny/T/C mount, foot pedal swivel plate adjustments.
That clears need for firewall cutting. Stayed with t90/d18, so had to adjust shifter handle floor pan holes forward about 1/2" - no big deal. Drivelines shortened/lengthened 2 1/2" +-.
I used a new radiator with electric fan, no issues, direct mount replacement and plenty of clearance,had to fab my own lower radiator hose tho - ordered some 90's and tube, cut and clamp.
Standard Exhaust manifold on drivers side interfered with steering box, simple fix, ordered the exhaust manifold for the chev/gmc envoy ( van ) which had the bottom dump ( opposed to rear down and back.

More pics on my build site " Building Confidence"
It was my first rodeo. Had so much fun, I've started my 2nd - OCD!

Oh yeah, stayed with original footpedals, had the bell housing adaptor for t90, that adaptor width helped alleviated the 2 1/2" forward motor adjustment, ( adaptor is 3/4 or 1 " width as I recall ) I placed new clutch, throw out bearing and arm, just got threaded rod and helms fittings to make the pedal to throw out arm rod. Direct line, no issues other than finding the sweet spot on the distance adjustment!

IMG_20220405_172021434.jpg
EADCFFFBEEB84DBB868E635EEDD8DECF.jpg
 
Last edited:
I find the idea of building upon the stock mechanical linkage for clutch actuation appealing (as Duke showed above with his Buick re-power).

John
 
Put the 4.3 in my 59. Bought crate engine ( Spokane area rebuilder ) can get name - great outfit & pricing.
Ordered up and put on a 500 4bbl carb and manifold ( speedway mtrs )- bolted on to the block replacing the tbi/and newer manifolds ( but chk yr olds for compatibility). Simple bolt on replacement, but used a 2" carb riser to clear the distributor mount.
Moved the motor & tranny 2 1/2" forward ( Novak motor mounts, simple refab of tranny mount, holes drilled onto front ridge of original cross member ( was 2 1/2 forward adjustment, then transmission footpedal mount fabbed for adjustment, as was the T/C crossover mount - easy fabs, but I had my frame welder do all that at one time, motor mounts and tranny/T/C mount, foot pedal swivel plate adjustments.
That clears need for firewall cutting. Stayed with t90/d18, so had to adjust shifter handle floor pan holes forward about 1/2" - no big deal. Drivelines shortened/lengthened 2 1/2" +-.
I used a new radiator with electric fan, no issues, direct mount replacement and plenty of clearance,had to fab my own lower radiator hose tho - ordered some 90's and tube, cut and clamp.
Standard Exhaust manifold on drivers side interfered with steering box, simple fix, ordered the exhaust manifold for the chev/gmc envoy ( van ) which had the bottom dump ( opposed to rear down and back.

More pics on my build site " Building Confidence"
It was my first rodeo. Had so much fun, I've started my 2nd - OCD!

Oh yeah, stayed with original footpedals, had the bell housing adaptor for t90, that adaptor width helped alleviated the 2 1/2" forward motor adjustment, ( adaptor is 3/4 or 1 " width as I recall ) I placed new clutch, throw out bearing and arm, just got threaded rod and helms fittings to make the pedal to throw out arm rod. Direct line, no issues other than finding the sweet spot on the distance adjustment!

View attachment 155744
View attachment 155745
What radiator did you use
 
What radiator did you use
I purchased a model specific ( 59 Wagon ) aluminum radiator with electric fan. No mounting issues at all, bolt on and wire up. The only issue was the bottom radiator hose connect. Had to purchase several 90deg turns and metal tube connectors and form my own, simple to do, cut and paste. Think radiator was thru Summit or Novak. $300 plus, but in some areas, I always figure that quality installed up front is better than throwing dollars correcting issues that arise from older used parts used. Placed an overflow reservoir on fender mount.
IMG_20220405_172021434.jpg
 
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