Pete's 1960 Wagon

Even if they weren’t stripped, there is one bolt that goes through the filler block from the back. If I’m remembering correctly, it goes into a fixed nut on the face of the engine support plate, inside the timing chain cover. So you’d likely be taking the pan off anyway.
 
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Pete said:
I think those are the bolts, in my case, that go all the way through the front filler block and have a nut on them because they were previously stripped out by someone long ago. Which is why I will have to pull the pan again to get to them from the inside...
I have new gaskets on the way, and will pull it apart this week. I was planning to take the wagon to Moab in a couple of weeks, so need to get-r-done.
Going to get under there with a bright light and see if I can get a better look at exactly where the oil is coming from first.
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Maybe time for a more permanent and fixed nuts solution?
 
Lookout Ranch said:
Usually the holes that strip go through the timing cover and the lower part of the engine support plate and into the front filler block, which is pot metal. It is important to use bolts that are long enough to engage as many of the pot metal threads as possible to avoid stripping.

Pete’s issue sounds like it is higher up than that.
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I used studs instead of bolts in the lower two holes. That solved my stripping problem.
 
Have not had a chance to try this yet but i have some for my one Transmission to repair some threads.

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LOCTITE® PC 3967​

Kit for permanently repairing stripped threads and fasteners in five minutes
Specially designed repair kit for repairing stripped threaded assemblies in a variety of metals and wood. Typical applications include threaded assemblies on oil pans, valve covers, distributor caps, transmission pans and housings.
All marks used are trademarks and/or registered trademarks of Henkel and its affiliates in the US, Germany, and elsewhere.
 
timd32 said:
Have not had a chance to try this yet but i have some for my one Transmission to repair some threads.

View attachment 163035

LOCTITE® PC 3967​

Kit for permanently repairing stripped threads and fasteners in five minutes
Specially designed repair kit for repairing stripped threaded assemblies in a variety of metals and wood. Typical applications include threaded assemblies on oil pans, valve covers, distributor caps, transmission pans and housings.
All marks used are trademarks and/or registered trademarks of Henkel and its affiliates in the US, Germany, and elsewhere.
Click to expand...
That’s an interesting product. I’ve used JB Weld to fix stripped threads where light torque will suffice. This must work on the same principle.

If you coat a screw or bolt with a light coat of dielectric or silicone grease, and then insert it and some JB Weld into a stripped hole, you can later back out the fastener and have nice threaded hole.
 
I jumped back into my oil leak today, and pulled everything apart again. This time I went deeper and pulled the engine plate. The bolts that hold the plate to the block weren’t even tight, and the seal was brittle like a piece of thin plastic. I’m pretty sure the leak was coming from in between the block and mount plate. Got everything clean and ready to go back together. Back at it in the morning for reassembly.
 

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That’s crazy that the plate wasn’t tight to the engine!

That would leak for sure. I wonder if it was a case of too much sealant being used to get a close fit, and then the sealant eroding away over time?

Anyway, this sure should fix the leak!
 
Lookout Ranch said:
That’s crazy that the plate wasn’t tight to the engine!

That would leak for sure. I wonder if it was a case of too much sealant being used to get a close fit, and then the sealant eroding away over time?

Anyway, this sure should fix the leak!
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It looked like the old gasket might have been assembled dry, there weren't any signs of RTV or anything like that.

Any recommendations for sealant to use on this flat gasket between the plate and block? Seems like something that brushes or sprays on would be good.
It's going to be a who's-on-first assembly getting it all back together with the front filler block and pan gasket.

Pete
 
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