Kurt had a thread on all his advice for pan and seal installation.
If you're reeeeeeeeally nice, maybe Kurt will link the thread. His advice on sealant types was valuable.
Pete's 1960 Wagon
- Thread starter Pete
- Start date
If you're reeeeeeeeally nice, maybe Kurt will link the thread. His advice on sealant types was valuable.
You’ll probably need to do something like this, if you’re not removing the front filler block; ignore this if the front block is removed.
I had a spare filler block, which helped.
It may help to stagger the rear main seal by rotating it slightly off the plane where the block and filler block meet.
Also, I’m a big fan of this stuff, even for gaskets that aren’t rubber:
Note the words “Superior Oil, Fuel and Fluid Resistance” toward the bottom.
I do think Willys shops used some sort of orange sealant, I’ve run into it around a rear main seal. Not sure it was RTV, but yes, it was there.
I had a spare filler block, which helped.
It may help to stagger the rear main seal by rotating it slightly off the plane where the block and filler block meet.
Also, I’m a big fan of this stuff, even for gaskets that aren’t rubber:
Note the words “Superior Oil, Fuel and Fluid Resistance” toward the bottom.
I do think Willys shops used some sort of orange sealant, I’ve run into it around a rear main seal. Not sure it was RTV, but yes, it was there.
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indian301
Precision Fit
I Have tried staggering rear main seals. On two different engines I built. DON'T DO IT! I had to remove the oil pans and install them even with the block the way the factory recommends. Permatex sells a silicone called The Right Stuff. Almost $20 a tube. I just glued a transmission pan on a 1955 Hudson with it. The pan gasket is obsolete. No leaks.
I can’t argue with your experience, but my seal is staggered and works great.
I’ve never used The Right Stuff but know a lot of folks use it and recommend it highly. I’ve been hesitant due to concerns about how friendly it may or may not be to subsequent disassembly and cleanup.
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Kurt,
Reading one of your old threads about oil pan gaskets, and noticed the following:
The side pieces on my existing pan gasket were under the filler blocks both front and rear. I have the later style neoprene rear main seal and filler block.
Should the side gasket pieces not be under the rear main filler block? If this is the case, perhaps why it was so leaky...
I have the front filler block removed and all of the gasket cleaned off, so I'm assuming it should go back together as it was with the side gasket pieces under the front filler block. Correct?
The part that I'm unsure of, is how to seal the top half of the rear main filler bock that slides into the groove in the block around the crankshaft.
Pete
Edited for clarity:
Yes, the front filler block designed to go over the gasket. The front filler block bolts line up better that way.
The rear filler block does not go over the gasket with the neoprene seal. Yes, that could he contributing to your leaking!
Edit: in my earlier post, I’d assumed you hadn’t removed the front filler block.
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Some of that rubber seal stuff I mentioned would be good for that, but it isn’t readily available at most parts stores — it usually needs to be ordered. Hylomar or something similar would also be good. As a practical matter, gravity is your friend there, and oil shouldn’t be migrating up there, especially if you seal the the lower part of the filler block with a light coat of sealant on the face where it meets the block.
Edit: With the rear filler block, the side pieces of the pan gasket do not go under the rear filler block with the neoprene rear main seal.
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Sorry, I’ve been on the go, so my responses have been somewhat disjointed and non-responsive. I’ve edited them to be more clear, I hope.
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I agree with Kurt and read his oil pan/rear main gospel. I've consumed the Kool Aid. BUT, technically the oil pan gasket should not be ABOVE the filler block as the pan rail is higher than the filler block portion that interferes with the oil pan gasket. Just some clarification for those that can think in 3D like I can.
Yes, you’re right, technically we are talking about whether or not to put the side gasket pieces above the filler block and below the block.
When i pulled it apart, the side pan gasket pieces were definitely sandwiched between the engine block and the rear main seal filler block.
Happy to know the side pieces need to be trimmed and do not get sandwiched between for the neoprene seal type.
Thanks for all the replies and clarification!
Pete
Happy to know the side pieces need to be trimmed and do not get sandwiched between for the neoprene seal type.
Thanks for all the replies and clarification!
Pete
You have only two months to get the waggy running again. Tik tok...
Should be back on the road by weeks end.
rocket
Well Oiled
I've found these little plastic do dads work well for installing oil pans on your back. They help to hold the gasket in place, align everything up, and actually hold the pan in place while you find the bolts you just kicked across the floor. They come in 5/16", 3/8', and even 10mm
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Brilliant! I think I need a set of these.
rocket
Well Oiled
I think they were actually designed by Fel-Pro for the all rubber LS1 style gaskets, but they sure help even with multi piece cork gaskets.
Ordered a set, should be here tomorrow.
rocket
Well Oiled
I'm out for the RFTH Rally. I've got an MRI on my knee tomorrow and an Appt. with the Orthopedic Surgeon next Monday. Oh Joy. Just had the other one fixed 14 months ago.
Dang, we will miss you.
I just did the oil pan gasket Saturday 4/6/24. Mahle gasket kit # OS29027, perplexed me initially with that additional material shown in the pics above. I wasn’t about to touch or disassemble the bearing blocks so reached for the Exacto knife and the cheez-whiz can of Permatex Right Stuff to first trim the side gaskets on both ends then seal the corners made between the side gaskets and the rubber bearing block rubber strip seals, also held in place with Right Stuff. Maybe one shouldn’t mix two different gasket goo’s in the same job but I used Aviation Sealant on both sides of the side gaskets, top and bottom. I was able to thread the pan into place without loosing any of the four gasket components and get a couple of the machine screws in. I was seriously surprised when this cured my leak, having thought “for sure” it was a rear main. Thanks Kurt for the nudge!
John
John