Pete's 1960 Wagon

Pete said:
It looked like the old gasket might have been assembled dry, there weren't any signs of RTV or anything like that.

Any recommendations for sealant to use on this flat gasket between the plate and block? Seems like something that brushes or sprays on would be good.
It's going to be a who's-on-first assembly getting it all back together with the front filler block and pan gasket.

Pete
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I agree, something thin. The type 3 aviation sealant brushes on thin and is easy to use. The longer it sits before installation the better. The red hi-tack is available in spray-on. It’s good stuff but clingy and can be tricky to work with. Would the copper spray work in an application like this? Dunno.
 
Pete said:
It looked like the old gasket might have been assembled dry, there weren't any signs of RTV or anything like that.

Any recommendations for sealant to use on this flat gasket between the plate and block? Seems like something that brushes or sprays on would be good.
It's going to be a who's-on-first assembly getting it all back together with the front filler block and pan gasket.

Pete
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Are the threads in your filler block strong? I found out too late mine were stripped.
 
Pete said:
And by that do you mean V8 swap? ;)
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Pete, many guys like to stay with the "long-stroke" concept of retaining the L226.

For my '57 'hopeful-build' wagon, I'm staying with the 'long-stroke' concept
but with a '70 Olds 455 marine engine w/ T400.

Edelbrock recently purchased Gasgacinch brush-on sealer.
I've used it a lifetime with good results, and it allows for easy disassembly when necessary down the road.

When our local Napa quit selling Gasgacinch in 2020, I tried the purple-ish Permatex, and too stringy I cussed that crap. and even didn't like how the Purple-redish Permatex cured either. thumbs down.

I would not use Gasket-Maker on the engine plate or if ever having to remove it you'd have to heat it with a Torch to remove it. or a jack-hammer. ratta-tat-tat

Pete, also, Joe has experience with Panel-Bond. LoL
 
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Yesterday afternoon I tackled getting the new gaskets in place. I used aviation #3 for the flat gasket between the block and engine mounting plate. I felt like a one armed paper hanger in a wrestling match getting everything in place, but I think it is all good to go this time.

Before I put the timing chain cover back on, I want to check to make sure the timing gears are aligned correctly. I'm not sure they were before hand, so I got out the manual this morning and read the section on timing gears, which details the alignment. I thought the marks on the gears were supposed to align toward each other, but they are supposed to be 9 links apart from each other. Tonight when I get home from work I'm going to set them correctly, and start putting everything else back together.

Hoping to have it roadworthy by this weekend and put a few miles on the new gaskets before heading to Moab in a couple of weeks.

More to come.
 
Yeah, the 226 timing chain alignment is a real treat to figure out, 9 links, ten pins, or whatever it is. My guess is that Willys or Continental sourced an exisiting gear or gear set and went with it and didn't bother moving the keyway on the cam, or the crank, or broach new ones in the gear(s). I'm sure someone figured out the "why" long ago, but the reasoning is probably lost to history.
 
Mine is a '60 year,but sold in '61 so is titled as a '61. Same engine,etc.. Reading intently of your teardown and what you happen across. Glad to hear that this may be a easy fix for you. Hope all goes well putting it back together.
 
Checked the timing marks, and to my surprise I got it right when I put the chain and gears back on last night. Nine links between the two marks on the gears, just like it says on the engine mount plate
 

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Pete said:
Checked the timing marks, and to my surprise I got it right when I put the chain and gears back on last night. Nine links between the two marks on the gears, just like it says on the engine mount plate
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that chain looks very loose, unless that's the camera angle. and I almost thought you had 8 pins, not 9, but I re-counted. The one in the slot counts.
 
JABJEEP said:
that chain looks very loose, unless that's the camera angle. and I almost thought you had 8 pins, not 9, but I re-counted. The one in the slot counts.
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Yes, the chain is at the stretch limit. I have a new chain, but not the gears. Decided to leave it as is for now. I’ll likely swap in the rebuilt 226 i have sitting in the garage at some point, so not really worth buying the gears for this engine.
 
Pete said:
Yesterday afternoon I tackled getting the new gaskets in place. I used aviation #3 for the flat gasket between the block and engine mounting plate. I felt like a one armed paper hanger in a wrestling match getting everything in place, but I think it is all good to go this time.

Before I put the timing chain cover back on, I want to check to make sure the timing gears are aligned correctly. I'm not sure they were before hand, so I got out the manual this morning and read the section on timing gears, which details the alignment. I thought the marks on the gears were supposed to align toward each other, but they are supposed to be 9 links apart from each other. Tonight when I get home from work I'm going to set them correctly, and start putting everything else back together.

Hoping to have it roadworthy by this weekend and put a few miles on the new gaskets before heading to Moab in a couple of weeks.

More to come.
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wow! I did not remember that! Of course the last 226 i completely rebuilt was 1991.........................................
 
Well, for the first time in 14 years the ‘ol box of hammers appears to be leak free for now.
Put in the oil and coolant and brought it up to temp. Took it for a spin around town, and still dry. I never thought I’d see the day…
 
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