That was easy ( so far). Plug out.
Old plug. Seen better days.
Old plug. Seen better days.
My '59 Project
- Thread starter Davidgreen59
- Start date
- Sep 20, 2017
- 6,538
- First Name
- Jeff
- Willys Model
- Wagon
- Pickup
- CJ
- Willys Year:
- 1955
- 1958
- 1962
I've been using Permatex 2B non-hardening sealant on my antiques for pretty much everything. Having said that, I have a pesky leak on a 134 right now that after installing another new oil pan gasket and checking everything (the front engine plate is not a perfect fit there) is still leaking. Maybe I should have used silicone. I've used silicone on water pumps and the threaded fasteners before with luck, but be careful not to use too much.
Automotive thread sealant looks just like Teflon pipe thread sealant. Supposedly it's different, if you believe the manufacturers. I've used the pipe sealant in a pinch. One difference I've been told is that the automotive stuff is rated for high temperatures.
So, don’t flame me for being lazy…
Does anyone know how much coolant stays in the block if you don’t open up the petcock on the block? It’s in a crazy hard place, kinda hidden behind the starter. My luck runs that it’ll break if I try to actuate it. I know I won’t get a total new coolant and corrosion protection if I don’t, but if there’s not much in the block, it may be the way for me to go. And I can’t judge how much came out of the radiator to do the simple math, cause it’s been leaking from the water pump, so I’m not sure how much was in it when I started to drain.
Thanks as always.
Does anyone know how much coolant stays in the block if you don’t open up the petcock on the block? It’s in a crazy hard place, kinda hidden behind the starter. My luck runs that it’ll break if I try to actuate it. I know I won’t get a total new coolant and corrosion protection if I don’t, but if there’s not much in the block, it may be the way for me to go. And I can’t judge how much came out of the radiator to do the simple math, cause it’s been leaking from the water pump, so I’m not sure how much was in it when I started to drain.
Thanks as always.
Argh. Crises of confidence. As it should be obvious if you’ve read any of my thread, I’m no mechanic… my book says to “clean the hole in the block thoroughly”. It assumes that you know how thoroughly is enough. Not easy to access any of these with the engine in the truck. I’ve used some 220 sandpaper, and even used a 3 stone wheel cylinder hone turned by hand. Some tolerances on Willy’s are pretty loose, but then again, I’ve never done freeze plugs before. I’ve got one spot that I can barely see and feel, but can’t even tell if it’s a high spot or a pit. Does anyone know how perfect these really need to be? I’m using new brass plugs for replacement if it matter.
- Sep 20, 2017
- 6,538
- First Name
- Jeff
- Willys Model
- Wagon
- Pickup
- CJ
- Willys Year:
- 1955
- 1958
- 1962
I use a small wire wheel/brush on a drill to clean those. I have since (haven't tried it yet on a block) switched to abrasive impreganted nylon britsle wheels with great results. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JYC34B9?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
You're gonna need a sealant anyway to seal the freeze plugs. So I say, good enuf.
Thanks. I got the @Gojeep recommended sealant for the freeze plugs. I’m gonna hit the holes with a wire brush on my dremel. See if that cleans it some more. What’s another 5 min at my snail’s pace? This was the one with the rust thru weep. Hopefully the other’s will be cleaner.
I also picked up a small tube of permatex “water pump and thermostat housing”. Pricey little tube, and could be just marketing, but that’s what I’ll use for the 2 gaskets for the pump and one bolt that goes into the water jacket. It’s seems to be an RTV silicone. Hope this one tube is enough.
I also picked up a small tube of permatex “water pump and thermostat housing”. Pricey little tube, and could be just marketing, but that’s what I’ll use for the 2 gaskets for the pump and one bolt that goes into the water jacket. It’s seems to be an RTV silicone. Hope this one tube is enough.
If you run out of that water pump stuff you can always just use another RTV sealant. I’ve used the ultra/optimum black successfully to seal exhaust manifold stud threads that go into the water jacket.
I’m of the (admittedly uninformed) opinion that the RTV sealants are all pretty much the same stuff labeled for different uses. It’s a marketing thing, to sell more.
I’m of the (admittedly uninformed) opinion that the RTV sealants are all pretty much the same stuff labeled for different uses. It’s a marketing thing, to sell more.
Marcus' stuff only works if you're on the other side of the world. In other words, downundah.
What if I stand on my head as I install the plugs? The ones at the back I almost have to to get around the battery tray.
Water pump “day” turned into 4, what with all my distractions and other stuff. Got the new one installed a bit ago. All torqued down to 15-20. The casting on this new one is much rougher than the old one. All the better to gather dirt and grime (sort of a theme in my engine bay unfortunately). I didn’t blast n paint the fan or the pulley either. They would have just stood out too much.
That rtv stuff is a racket. 9 bucks for the little tube of water pump specific barely got me 1/2 way back on. Good thing I picked up a bigger tube of the ultra black… I think when I changed this pump last, we just wet all the gaskets with oil. Times change.
I just hope I got it all back together right and water tight…
Still going on the freeze plugs. I waited too long to order and Willys America only had 2, so I said send em on. Went to local Napa and they tried to sell me 1-1/4 s instead of the correct 1-5/8”. Duh. I ended up finding bass Dorman plugs at autozone in the right size. Only bad thing is the “made in china” stamp. They mic out the same as the USA ones I got from WA, so I guess I’ll use them.
Hopefully more progress tomorrow.
That rtv stuff is a racket. 9 bucks for the little tube of water pump specific barely got me 1/2 way back on. Good thing I picked up a bigger tube of the ultra black… I think when I changed this pump last, we just wet all the gaskets with oil. Times change.
I just hope I got it all back together right and water tight…
Still going on the freeze plugs. I waited too long to order and Willys America only had 2, so I said send em on. Went to local Napa and they tried to sell me 1-1/4 s instead of the correct 1-5/8”. Duh. I ended up finding bass Dorman plugs at autozone in the right size. Only bad thing is the “made in china” stamp. They mic out the same as the USA ones I got from WA, so I guess I’ll use them.
Hopefully more progress tomorrow.
I use Permatex aviation form-a-gasket for most all of my engine seals
Works great
Works great
A water pump gasket is about the only place I like to use Gasgacinch, which is basically a thinned rubber cement. But RTV is fine as well. I've even used Permatex Hi-Tack.
I used the brass Dorman freeze plugs a few years ago on a rebuild. I used a Dremel to etch away the Made in China stamp.
Way back when I bought a new water pump from Walcks for my wagon, figuring I'd eventually need it. Sure enough, the time came a couple of years ago, but after the new one was installed, the fan pulley no longer lined up with the generator and vibration damper pulleys. I ran it like that for awhile before getting disgusted with myself and buying some spacer washers to shim the fan pulley out, to achieve the proper alignment.
This is what I use
Permatex 59235 High Temperature Thread Sealant, 50 ml Tube , White https://a.co/d/jh4QowJ
Wow, I hope that is not the case here. Won’t know till I fire it up.
Back a few months ago, I took out my speedo cable, cause it was broken. The guy who fixed the speedo itself told me to bring it in and he’d fix it. Now, I got it back in, but can’t remember the exact routing… there’s a clip on the cable sheath:
What’s that clip too? Right now the cable rest on the exhaust manifold, and I know that can’t be right. I’m pretty sure that clip is in the same place as when I pulled the cable, but maybe not.
Thanks for any tips.
What’s that clip too? Right now the cable rest on the exhaust manifold, and I know that can’t be right. I’m pretty sure that clip is in the same place as when I pulled the cable, but maybe not.
Thanks for any tips.
Got the freeze plug that was leaking replaced. May be just a tad deeper than I wanted, but as long as it holds, I’ll live with it.
Got the next plug rearward driven out. Wasn’t near as corroded as the first one. Getting it replaced is gonna be harder. FSM says “can be done in the vehicle”. Maybe, but not easy.
The next one forward from my new one lines up exactly with the oil fill tube
. On the 226, doesn’t that tube just pop out? Seems like a friction fit, but I was a lot younger last time it was off.
Looks like for the front one, the generator has to come off. I just got it back on last eve buttoning up the water pump…
The rear one is just gonna be a bitch. I just have to accept that. Anndd, I’m ignoring the hidden 6th plug at the back of the block. I’m just not up to pulling the engine. Gonna roll the dice…
I can’t say how much I appreciate all the help I’ve gotten on the forum. Kept me from making lots of “own goals”.
Got the next plug rearward driven out. Wasn’t near as corroded as the first one. Getting it replaced is gonna be harder. FSM says “can be done in the vehicle”. Maybe, but not easy.
The next one forward from my new one lines up exactly with the oil fill tube
. On the 226, doesn’t that tube just pop out? Seems like a friction fit, but I was a lot younger last time it was off.Looks like for the front one, the generator has to come off. I just got it back on last eve buttoning up the water pump…
The rear one is just gonna be a bitch. I just have to accept that. Anndd, I’m ignoring the hidden 6th plug at the back of the block. I’m just not up to pulling the engine. Gonna roll the dice…
I can’t say how much I appreciate all the help I’ve gotten on the forum. Kept me from making lots of “own goals”.
On mine, that clip is underneath, holding the cable up near the floor so it doesn't sag onto the exhaust. I'm not near my wagon to take a pic, but if memory serves, it's out in the middle of the arc as the cable bends back toward the back of the engine. I have no idea if that's correct, but that's how it is.
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