Coupla mundane questions - clip locations

Here's another pretty "mundane question".........

This afternoon I stuck the new shocks on the front end. I found that the nice thick new rubber bushings do not allow enough room to get the (fairly thick) washer / keeper, and the (also thick) cotter pin installed. Top and bottom, same problem.

There is no obvious way to compress the rubber bushing. It's rubber, it bounces back - and it's pretty stiff stuff anyway. There's no nut not to draw it down, etc - just that fixed length of the stock shaft for mounting it.

I think I could probably get the cotter pin in without using the washer, but I feel like it needs a steel washer, not just a cotter pin trying to hold against rubber.

So I was considering pulling the shocks back off, and grinding down that rubber bushing on either side, try to gain maybe an 1/8" or 3/16" combined, between the inner and outer faces of the bushing where it sticks out - so that I have room to install. It's definitely not going to go back together as designed without making some room somewhere.

Anybody have any thoughts on this? Is grinding away some of the rubber a bad idea?

See, I told you it was a mundane question! haha

shock install.jpeg
 
Can you somehow fit a C clamp on both sides to draw in the rubber? I would be hesitant to grind any of the bushings away if I didn't have to. Maybe even a thinner fender washer?
 
I ground down right at 1/8" total (removed from both sides), of bushing and used a big pair of 4" vice grips that have the little swivel pads on ends to draw up just enough to put my shock washer on with the cotter pin. Just a slight skim on a round sanding disc on both sides of bushing was enough.
 
MetalShaper had this in one of his videos, but I don’t remember which one. If I recall correctly, he used a C clamp and a socket with a slot cut into it to compress the bushing and slide the pin in. Seems like a chunk of wood with a hole and slot would work?
 
Well, I was all set to go grind the rubber on the bushings, but then I saw JoeB's post. And I thought - well, I've got a big C-clamp, and junk sockets (metric ones - never use 'em. haha). And this approach sounded like more fun. It's soooo Willys!

So I whipped out the angle grinder, and made this -

Resized_20190922_172700.jpeg

And brought The Bride out to help hold things, because there are lots of moving parts until you get some pressure on there.

Resized_20190922_165310.jpeg

And somewhat to my surprise - it actually WORKED! Got them all on there pretty quickly, as a matter of fact. Almost like I knew what I was doing. And no grinding of rubber needed.

Thanks, Joe!!

Resized_20190922_172716.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Vintage Don, where did you pick up your shocks? I need all 4 for my 59 pickup, and I’ve got a birthday coming up, so have to feed some ideas to the family. This may give me something relatively quick to get completed.
 
I got 'em from Walcks. I get most of my (new) stuff from them, things I can't pick up locally.
 
Davidgreen59 said:
Vintage Don, where did you pick up your shocks? I need all 4 for my 59 pickup, and I’ve got a birthday coming up, so have to feed some ideas to the family. This may give me something relatively quick to get completed.
Click to expand...

You can pick them up at NAPA as well. I got some a few years back and they look the same as Don's but a little more economical (mine was a Wagon though, not sure if that makes any difference)
 
You should be able to go to.... O Really..... or Vatozone... ...and pick them up...

Those look like Monroe shocks... So i am gunna guess....those are....gunna be...
Monroe 32207. Fronts
Monroe 31094. Rears

Or at least that is what i have on my 51 truck.

Larry
 
The numbers that Larry has provided are exactly correct. These shocks are not marked with any manufacturer, they only say the above numbers, and "Made in USA". I like the simple, uncluttered look. They were about $25 each, and the 5% discount if you are an All-Star member here. Plus I normally wait until I have $150+ of stuff to buy which makes the shipping free with Walcks.

Sure, if you can source them at a local store, why not.
 
This thread contained some conversation about replacing the oil filter with an original one I picked up recently at a swap meet, so I thought I stick an update in here.

Those of you who follow my ramblings will recall the "Turnaround Day" and getting ready to start on the rear half of the truck. Then there was the annual pilgrimage to Hershey, and now I'm back at it.

Decided to clean up the loose ends before digging in to new areas - one of which was restoring this replacement filter and swapping it on to the engine. Got started with that today.

So here's my usual Before and After shots.

20191015_230953.jpg

20191016_160222.jpg
Hope to get that on tomorrow, along with installing the replacement thermostat, and get the radiator back on the engine on the Run Stand, and get her running again - this time with antifreeze.

Then we'll start on getting the rear hubs pulled off....
 
Joe B said:
Every Willys service shop should have...

View attachment 62658

View attachment 62659

or a big c-clamp and a junk socket with a slot cut into it.

(The source, and more -- including a better illustration of the military version of this tool -- here:
https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=82035&start=210)
Click to expand...

Granted the upper shock mounts of the GPW differ from the Willys MB and our Old Willys but the bottom is the same. In fact, the Willys tool didn't reach all the way to the back of the Ford mount even after I switched mounting holes on the tool to the long end. Luckily they didn't weld the mount completely and the step where the metal overlapped gave me just enough to catch. FWIW, Don's tool is possibly better, if it fits the upper mounts when the body is installed.
IMG_4584.JPGIMG_4585.JPG



IMG_4583.JPGIMG_4581.JPG


IMG_4588.JPGIMG_4586.JPG

IMG_4587.JPG
 
Vintage Don said:
Hahaha, of COURSE you have one of those!!!

(Kind of a delayed response here, though, eh?....)
Click to expand...
Well yeah, but I just installed the rear shocks last night. And besides, it took longer to find the darn tool than it did to figure out how to use it! And, besides that, if you just read through the thread and ignore the dates it kinda sorta just goes with the flow! At least I didn’t mention our membership in the Six Volt Coalition!
 
Right, right... I agree, it's not uncommon for me to do a search on something, and I end up reading strings and they'll be from 2011 or 2014, whatever. And many of the posters' names I don't recognize. That always troubles me a little - I think "I wonder what became of this or that person?" But I suppose lots of people in here join OWF while they're active on a project - and then when they're done they kinda fade away. Makes perfect sense, really.
 
Vintage Don said:
On a 1948 pickup. I'm assembling stuff, finally. Working in the engine compartment.

I am told there is a clip that holds the emergency brake cable, that attaches to one of the bolts for the bellhousing.... can anybody tell me exactly where that goes, or better yet, a photo?

And I have the driver's side wiring harness pretty much installed. There's a clip up near the horn. And apparently there is supposed to be one down low on that side, I'd guess near the front of the Master Cylinder? I still had the clip on the old wires, but it wasn't attached. Same question, anybody know or have a photo?

These are the things that take time and make you a little crazy. Well, craz-IER.

View attachment 62402

Thanks!
Click to expand...
My 56 wagon was missing the cable but it had a clip that looks like it would hold the cable attached to the lower starter bolt (226-T90 )
 
Yeah, but my starter is on the passenger side... It makes sense that it will attach at one of the bolts on the bellhousing-to-block connections. That's what someone had told me earlier. When I get the engine in there some day, it will reveal where it needs to be. But thanks, I always appreciate the effort to go look!
 
Vintage Don said:
Here's another pretty "mundane question".........

This afternoon I stuck the new shocks on the front end. I found that the nice thick new rubber bushings do not allow enough room to get the (fairly thick) washer / keeper, and the (also thick) cotter pin installed. Top and bottom, same problem.

There is no obvious way to compress the rubber bushing. It's rubber, it bounces back - and it's pretty stiff stuff anyway. There's no nut not to draw it down, etc - just that fixed length of the stock shaft for mounting it.

I think I could probably get the cotter pin in without using the washer, but I feel like it needs a steel washer, not just a cotter pin trying to hold against rubber.

So I was considering pulling the shocks back off, and grinding down that rubber bushing on either side, try to gain maybe an 1/8" or 3/16" combined, between the inner and outer faces of the bushing where it sticks out - so that I have room to install. It's definitely not going to go back together as designed without making some room somewhere.

Anybody have any thoughts on this? Is grinding away some of the rubber a bad idea?

See, I told you it was a mundane question! haha

View attachment 62637
Click to expand...
Those shock pins look a little loose in the bushings. Like it's a 3/4" bushing on a 5/8" pin. You don't want any slop in the shock mounts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top