Coupla mundane questions - clip locations

Vintage Don

Well Oiled
Oct 9, 2017
3,855
Medina, Ohio
First Name
Don
Willys Model
  1. Pickup
Willys Year:
  1. 1948
On a 1948 pickup. I'm assembling stuff, finally. Working in the engine compartment.

I am told there is a clip that holds the emergency brake cable, that attaches to one of the bolts for the bellhousing.... can anybody tell me exactly where that goes, or better yet, a photo?

And I have the driver's side wiring harness pretty much installed. There's a clip up near the horn. And apparently there is supposed to be one down low on that side, I'd guess near the front of the Master Cylinder? I still had the clip on the old wires, but it wasn't attached. Same question, anybody know or have a photo?

These are the things that take time and make you a little crazy. Well, craz-IER.

20190912_160650.jpg

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Hey Don......

Ok here is the cable clip that attaches to the upper fire wall bracket .........

Parking Brake 7.jpg
..........

in the case of my 51 truck since i have GM drivetrain and running gear i simply took another cable clamp and used a transmission pan bolt to hold it in place.......( upper center of Pic just above the transmission crossmember....)IMG_20180612_185133717.jpg.......
these are the only two clamps i have holding the front cable section in place .....the independent rear cables to the wheels have their own cable clamps that attach to the rear cross member.

Larry
 
My 52 had a clip with a hole and a tab. There are 2 holes on the trans cross member, 1 large for the 5/16' bolt and one small 1 for the tab to fit into. maybe yours is the same.
 
Larry, Tim - thanks very much to both of you for taking the time to answer.

You are both talking about the clip/clamp at either end of the outer cable SHEATH - where it attaches near the end of the pull handle by the firewall, and again at the transmission cross-member. Those two clamps hold the sheath fixed in place, so that the actual cable can move freely inside of the sheath while the sheath holds still. Those two clamps are the same, as you described, Tim. A 5/16" bolt and a smaller hole to capture a tang, so that it can't rotate.

I have those two clips, one at either end.

But what I'm talking about is out somewhere in the middle of the cable/sheath combo, where it's just a big old loop out in the engine bay. Walck told me there is a THIRD clamp there, too - which attaches to the bellhousing. So that that long length isn't just flopping around in the engine bay. I suppose I can make one and there will be a logical place to bolt it down, once I ever put the engine back in the old girl and can see where it needs to be secured.

Again, I appreciate you taking the time here.
 
Hey Don.....

Ok .......once you put the engine/Trans/T-case back in the truck .....leaving a small loose loop back at the firewall bracket you could simply pull the excess cable and sheath through and find suitable locations to attach it to all the way back with 2 - 3 clips then cut the excess sheath off if too long ...leaving the cable itself long till you get it hooked up to the actuating arm .....( you can see my cable tail in the above pic along with where i cut it back just past the pan ...) ..that way you dont have 2 feet of excess cable protruding into the engine bay...but rather it is pulled through to the point it is snug but not binding the cable....that is what i did on my 51 truck so when you look at the engine you cant really see the cable less you look for it.

Larry
 
Larry, Tim - thanks very much to both of you for taking the time to answer.

You are both talking about the clip/clamp at either end of the outer cable SHEATH - where it attaches near the end of the pull handle by the firewall, and again at the transmission cross-member. Those two clamps hold the sheath fixed in place, so that the actual cable can move freely inside of the sheath while the sheath holds still. Those two clamps are the same, as you described, Tim. A 5/16" bolt and a smaller hole to capture a tang, so that it can't rotate.

I have those two clips, one at either end.

But what I'm talking about is out somewhere in the middle of the cable/sheath combo, where it's just a big old loop out in the engine bay. Walck told me there is a THIRD clamp there, too - which attaches to the bellhousing. So that that long length isn't just flopping around in the engine bay. I suppose I can make one and there will be a logical place to bolt it down, once I ever put the engine back in the old girl and can see where it needs to be secured.

Again, I appreciate you taking the time here.

Don, I had that 3rd clip as well. I think it went on the transmission. When I installed the T98, it moved the crossmember back 6" and put that clip under one of the upper bolts on the steering box. Sorry I couldn't help.
 
Don my 48 had only the two clips on it when I got it one at the firewall and one on the crossmember. It seems to work ok I never knew there was a third clip.
 
Thanks, Larry, Big Dan, and Tim.

Larry, I pulled things tight and hooked it up at the transmission cross-member, tied everything in. It's not as big a loop as it appeared to be when I was mocking it up earlier. I will probably just make a small clip and attach it somewhere logical on the bellhousing bolts when I get it all installed. Really no big deal here obviously, just wondered about it.

Thanks for the posts.

It looks like this - that coiled blue wire is the wire that runs up inside the steering column to the horn button. Working on the column next.

(I'm still wondering about the (stock) wiring harness clips, though!)

E brake cable.jpeg
 
Well, I'm probably just polluting your thread here, but I figured I could show you where the clips on the wiring harness goes. I don't think anyone's changed anything there since the car was built. As it turns out, mine doesn't look anything like yours. The wires go along a route that's much higher, along the top of the fender. The hangers used on your truck are empty on my wagon, and I don't see one clip that takes a bolt! This could be because you have a truck and I have a wagon, or yours is a 1948 model and mine's a 1959 model, or I have an F4-134 engine, or something else. Here are some photos anyway.20190913beastwiring1.JPG20190913beastwiring2.JPG
 
Thanks for the post, Richard. Pollute away! haha But all info is good info.

It is a rather different set up there, but of course several years had gone by.

Mine was all totally original, too - but unfortunately there was not a lot left on some of the details like wires, or anything that was rubber or fabric.. sitting in the open in Oklahoma for 52 years will do that, I guess.

engine before 2.jpeg
 
That ain't fair Don,you look to have it on a lift! That's sweet.
 
where is the oil filter canister ? _ _ _ under the duff somewhere !

Hahahaha, these old engines don't really need an oil filter if the oil is changed on a regular interval. My guess is many of these L134 engines have just had oil added and never changed for decades or longer.

Looking at all those attaching nuts on the firewall, I was just looking at those for sale on the net this morning, and are they Spendy-devils.
 
Hey Don......

Ok here is the cable clip that attaches to the upper fire wall bracket .........

View attachment 62403
..........

in the case of my 51 truck since i have GM drivetrain and running gear i simply took another cable clamp and used a transmission pan bolt to hold it in place.......( upper center of Pic just above the transmission crossmember....)View attachment 62404.......
these are the only two clamps i have holding the front cable section in place .....the independent rear cables to the wheels have their own cable clamps that attach to the rear cross member.

Larry

Larry, are you running a GM 10-bolt rear axle assembly ? just curious of 3:73 or ? _ _ and how many lug studs, 5 or 6 ?
 
Hey Leonard.....

Ok my 51 truck is a stock body on stock frame .....but has all GM running gear .......with a 95 chevy 5.7 350 TBI......K case 700R4 ...NP208 T-case........and is currently sitting on a pair of 91 Chevy Suburban Axles with a 3.42 gear ratio.......as i wanted good highway speed gearing .......if i had to do it again,.... i would have dropped in a Corporate 14 bolt full floater rear end with 4.10 so that i had both highway capacity and a little low end torque for some moderate towing ......IMG_20190504_134145097_HDR.jpg..........IMG_20171020_111903528_HDR.jpg.........IMG_20190503_183434268_HDR.jpg..........IMG_20190504_134157786_HDR.jpg......these are both 10 bolt and are 1/2 ton 6 lug axles......i went to Moab UT .......over Memorial Day weekend...for the 10th Annual Willys Rally.. 1100 mile round trip.......and just went to Flagstaff AZ .for two days ......last weekend to attend the 7th Annual Willys Roundup...350 miles..round trip .....even went to Prescott AZ couple 3 weekends ago for a Model Train Swap Meet.....200 mile round trip...
Overall it does pretty good on the highway ...at 70+.....can pull hills at 65+ .though i dont know what RPM i am turning at what speed as i dont no Tach in the truck.



Larry
 
Greaser007, the oil filter was still an option in 1948 I believe, so a lot of those engines probably didn't have one. Same for other makes in the 1930's and 40's and before. But this truck originally had one, because the remains of the oil lines that ran over to it were still there, and the fitting where it returns into the top of the timing cover. The housing and bracket was just gone. As was the carburetor, and lots of other stuff....

When I built the engine, I added one back onto it.

4.jpeg

It was a modern re-pop., and I didn't like it. For one thing, it had no drain plug on the bottom. Bigger problem with the re-pops, the brackets aren't welded onto the actual canister, just the two loops that go all the way around and are held on by two half-assed long screws. So you're fighting getting those tight, and doing that moves the 4 attaching bolts to the bracket, and limits access. Also prevents installing the little support strap that goes around the oil fill tube correctly.

2.jpeg

But today, at the "Northern Ohio Willys Flat Fender Gathering," I found a good original set-up! was pleased to get it for 10 bucks.

It has the canister properly welded, instead of the rings all the way around, so no long screws to adjust -

3.jpeg

and it's got the drain plug. Now I gotta clean it up and paint it silver and get it on there. Life is good....

1.jpeg

5.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Just thought I'd mention that the oil filter on my 1959 wagon with the F4-134 engine looks more like your modern re-pop, except mine has only one wider strap and only one screw. It doesn't have a drain plug. The screw probably hasn't been touched since 1959, so all that dirt and rust and crap keeps it from coming loose! 20190916beastoilfilter1.JPG20190916beastoilfilter2.JPG
 
That's interesting..... so the re-pop is maybe a more true reproduction than I was giving it credit for, maybe modeled after a slightly later version. I still like my old one, though. It's also built a lot heavier. Slowly getting it cleaned up, a minute here and there on it, while I work on other stuff.

Resized_20190917_212533.jpeg
 
Back
Top