Dimmwatt’s ‘57-2006 Rubicon Wagon

I just did a 10 mile road test. The driver mirror still shakes the slightest amount but no where near what the other one does. The biggest problem I had with the shaky mirror isn't that I couldn't see anything, It was the stress it caused my brain knowing that the shake was stressing out the metal and would eventually crack it.

The verdict...I like it! I'll be pulling the passenger door off today around 3pm if you wanted to stop by, I'll be in the back. Hope to have it done by 6 or so and move on to the next thing.

My short list for pre moab prep
1. Replace the rear corner, or at least tack the darn thing back together so it stops squeaking and crackling when driving.
2. Add cruise control. I have the buttons already in place and a stock TJ actuator ready to go in. It shouldn't take that much to get it going...
3. remove, clean and paint a few small pieces to halt rust.
4. vacuum and clean it, put the rear seat and spare back in, measure the rear for the largest yeti type cooler I can fit then buy the cooler.

5. If I think I can pull it off, I will revise the pedal positions to gain some leg room. This will mean a bit of work to the floor.
 
In the middle of # 1 and 3 above, 2 and 4 are done, and a cooler is ordered.

Lets start by pulling the tacked in panel


bad damage. This pillar was no longer attached to anything below. The entire pillar moved any time I latched the tailgate or drove.

Cut out to repair then replace


bent back into shape

Welded back in place

Mangled corner insert was able to be saved instead of creating a new one.


The mounting location for the TJ cruise control. Tested it and it works.

throttle cable

Cruise buttons. Each is assigned a resistor value to control the vacuum servo. I only have 3 in comparison to the stock 5.I chose to keep On, Set and coast.The brake pedal and clutch defeat work as they did in the TJ


Adjusted and greased the door latch. I found it always shut well after adjusting the striker but It kept moving no matter what I did so I put a backing plate that wont let it push inward.
 
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The cooler that's on its way. Its a bit of a risk performance wise, but the shape and size is perfect for the back corner of the wagon. Its a swedish military medical supply cooler. It measures 18.5x18.5x24 tall with 2.5" thick walls. I'll have a week to test it before we set sail for moab...





If it doesnt work out I'll pick up a mermite.

 
That cooler looks heavy. Is it? I guess the Yeti and Coleman Sportsman are both pretty heavy too. Have you ever used dry ice? It is a little pricey but works well for long runs. Used it a lot on long offshore boating runs. Just handle it with gloves.

Great progress on the wagon. Tuesday is hopefully DMV day if work is not too insane. Will text ya.

Duane

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Shipping weight on the swedish cooler says 47.9 lbs Ouch that is heavy. Maybe assume 5-8 lbs packaging??? = 40 lbs???. Its 3462 cubic inches inside that = 60 quarts.
dimensions
18.5x18.5x24

In comparison, a advertized 75 quart yeti. Its internal dimensions only net 3471 cubic inches or 60.1 quarts. Its weight is 34 lbs. Not too much different.
33x18x18

Yeti has 3.5 inches thick walls, swedish is 2.5
 
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After removing the panel, I needed to sharpen the bends and pound out lots of other dents



Getting it ready for rewelding. The fit is terrible. What should I expect after installing and removing it 3 times!

I flattened the last flange to make install easier. The flange will get turned in after welding to the pilar

What it looks like on the inside

Mostly welded.

I found another problem with this aftermarket panel...
Burn an inch on the end and you get this, Roughly 7.5 inches from style line indent to flange edge...


The problem is that the stock panel on the driver side measures 7". So its 1/2 an inch off at the bottom and roughly 3/8 at the top. I plan on pie cutting that material out after welding to the pillar.

 
I'm really impressed by how clean the wiring turned out for the stock gauge cluster. How did you incorporate the wrangler harness? I need to do something similar with my dads willys which is mounted on a chevy frame and running gear. Wiring is not my forte...


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The wrangler harness was used in its entirety. The only tough part other than the cluster was replacing the multi function switch on the tj column with individual switches.
 
cooler arrived and fits great!



here is the corner most of the way welded back together after the pie cut


My son helped me paint the upper gate hinge and all the window frames


Grinding
 
Once again, love the forum. In the picture of your ice chest I spotted yet another idea I am stealing. Love the third brake light in the window.

Also regarding the back corners not matching causing you to do the pie shape cut, mine looks stock, bare metal with no joints or work visable. The drivers side dimension where you pulled tge tape on yours, is 1/2 inch wider on mine. Best guess is this things were not too precise when made.

Great progress Casey.

Duane

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I also cut it because it wasn't fitting as is.

The 3rd brake light is foldable to move it out of the way for large loads and its located on the driver side because its not visible from the drivers perspective there.
 
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Here is what the load will look like. I placed some 2x4's under the cooler to space it up. I will likely widen the stance of them and insert my coleman grill.



I'll be making the 2nd version of my glove boxes. Here is the hammer form I started today.


 
Casey,
Is it possible to rig a drain to the bottom of your cooler?

If not, a siphon line or a 12V water pump might be a handy accessory.

An on-board pump would also be useful for a wide range of other camping/trail applications.
 
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Not a bad idea but a drain won't be required because there will never be ice inside the cooler. It's separated inside the bottle. Also the food will be frozen. If that doesn't keep things cold enough, I will use dry ice. Dry ice out gasses rather than melts... again, no water. There will be some condensation, but I can't imagine it will be too much.
 
Casey also did not mention he has a water tank under his wagon, heat exchanger, pump and shower under his hood. (Something I was envious of the first time I saw his ride)

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Cool/no drain, Sweet!/plumbing.

Be careful with dry ice inside a closed cabin. Sublimation can displace oxygen.

Cooler vent?
 
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I have been stuffing this hole with newspaper for years. Its time to do something about that. I made this ring yesterday.



Melted holes in the carpet with this heated punch...I know, I may have softened it and ruined the tool... The cup holder was perfect to hold the torch.



Drilled holes and screwed it in.


HAd a boot made by my interior guy



 
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