white52
Sharpest Tool
That's right, for the first time ever I drove to work today in a heated Willys! I used a Danhard Inc.
model 1412 heater and centered it under the dash. Hooking the flex tube to the defrost vents was
a pain in the butt and I had to relocate the cowl-vent lever, but I'm happy with the final product.
I refused to pay the $125 for the factory control switch so I used a $5 push-pull for fan speeds 1
and 2, then used a $3 toggle to run fan speed 3 when I need it. Below is the method I used to
move the cowl-vent lever for those interested:
The before picture:
[galleryimage:3k47ud7s]944[/galleryimage:3k47ud7s]
I needed to make a new lever so I just welded a small piece of tube to a length of flat, roughly
the same length as the original lever.
[galleryimage:3k47ud7s]945[/galleryimage:3k47ud7s]
Using the original pivot-bolt to attach the lever to the crossbeam just wasn't gonna work so I
welded a bolt through the lever, facing the opposite direction. That way I'd have access to the
nut if I ever need to remove it.
[galleryimage:3k47ud7s]946[/galleryimage:3k47ud7s]
After that I welded all the pieces of my new lever together using a piece of tubing long enough
to get me out of the way of the new heater. Then I cut the old handle off of the cam so that it
would be able to rotate without interference from the heater body.
[galleryimage:3k47ud7s]947[/galleryimage:3k47ud7s]
Once all my sloppy fabricating was done I installed the new lever mechanism.
[galleryimage:3k47ud7s]948[/galleryimage:3k47ud7s]
[galleryimage:3k47ud7s]949[/galleryimage:3k47ud7s]
Last but not least I was able to install the main body of the heater (sorry, the picture is kind of
dark.) Then it was just a matter of running heater hoses through the firewall, installing two
ball valves so I can turn the heat off in the off-season, and tapping everything into the engine.
[galleryimage:3k47ud7s]950[/galleryimage:3k47ud7s]
model 1412 heater and centered it under the dash. Hooking the flex tube to the defrost vents was
a pain in the butt and I had to relocate the cowl-vent lever, but I'm happy with the final product.
I refused to pay the $125 for the factory control switch so I used a $5 push-pull for fan speeds 1
and 2, then used a $3 toggle to run fan speed 3 when I need it. Below is the method I used to
move the cowl-vent lever for those interested:
The before picture:
[galleryimage:3k47ud7s]944[/galleryimage:3k47ud7s]
I needed to make a new lever so I just welded a small piece of tube to a length of flat, roughly
the same length as the original lever.
[galleryimage:3k47ud7s]945[/galleryimage:3k47ud7s]
Using the original pivot-bolt to attach the lever to the crossbeam just wasn't gonna work so I
welded a bolt through the lever, facing the opposite direction. That way I'd have access to the
nut if I ever need to remove it.
[galleryimage:3k47ud7s]946[/galleryimage:3k47ud7s]
After that I welded all the pieces of my new lever together using a piece of tubing long enough
to get me out of the way of the new heater. Then I cut the old handle off of the cam so that it
would be able to rotate without interference from the heater body.
[galleryimage:3k47ud7s]947[/galleryimage:3k47ud7s]
Once all my sloppy fabricating was done I installed the new lever mechanism.
[galleryimage:3k47ud7s]948[/galleryimage:3k47ud7s]
[galleryimage:3k47ud7s]949[/galleryimage:3k47ud7s]
Last but not least I was able to install the main body of the heater (sorry, the picture is kind of
dark.) Then it was just a matter of running heater hoses through the firewall, installing two
ball valves so I can turn the heat off in the off-season, and tapping everything into the engine.
[galleryimage:3k47ud7s]950[/galleryimage:3k47ud7s]