Rear wheel seal replacement

mikel

Bigger Hammer
Oct 14, 2019
55
Georgia
First Name
Mike
Willys Model
  1. Jeepster
Willys Year:
  1. 1950
I'm leaking quite a bit of differential oil around the passenger rear wheel. I've got new inner and outer seals ready to go but thought I would ask if anyone has any hints on how to make the install easier. I do have the big puller to get the hub off and I had it off a couple of years ago so hopefully it's not as bad to get off this time. The diagrams I have aren't too great but it appears I will have to pull the bearing race to get the inner seal in place.

Mike
 

Stakebed

Well Oiled
All-Star
Mar 4, 2020
4,961
Northern California
First Name
Joe
Willys Model
  1. Pickup
Willys Year:
  1. 1957
Make damn sure you keep track of how many axle shims are on each side. Just pulling the axle/bearing might change the endplay though. A very thorough job would recheck the axle endplay when each side is reassembled.
Also, take digital pics of the brakes and other components as you dig in there. Very easy to forget the order of things.
The gaskets, shims, grease slinger, etc have five holes. Four are for bolts. The fifth hole should be in the 6 o'clock position for excess lube drainage.
Remember during reassembly, slide the drum onto the axle first, then carefully tap the woodruff key into place.
You'll need something to hold the axles/wheels/vehicle from rolling when you retorque the axle nuts, the torque is sufficient to move the vehicle.
 

mikel

Bigger Hammer
Oct 14, 2019
55
Georgia
First Name
Mike
Willys Model
  1. Jeepster
Willys Year:
  1. 1950
Joe, Thanks. Am I correct that I will have to pull the bearing race to get the inner seal in place?

Mike
 

Fred46

Bigger Hammer
Oct 5, 2020
56
Alliance, OH
First Name
Fred
Willys Model
  1. Wagon
  2. Pickup
  3. Jeepster
  4. CJ
Willys Year:
  1. 1946
  2. 1948
  3. 1950
  4. 1955
  5. 1961
Inner seal, yes. You will need to pull the axle shaft from the differential and wheel bearing comes out at the same time. The race can remain in the tube. Then you need to remove the differential in order to R/R the inner seal. And since your removing the diff you may as well pull the other axle and do that inner seal also.
All the axle end shims you remove must go back on same side for original bearing setting.
You do have a manual, right?
 

mikel

Bigger Hammer
Oct 14, 2019
55
Georgia
First Name
Mike
Willys Model
  1. Jeepster
Willys Year:
  1. 1950
Thanks. I have a manual but it makes it seem pretty easy and doesn't cover a lot of the details. It talks about installing the inner oil seal, but doesn't mention how to get the race out, etc. I'm tearing it down this afternoon so I'll see how it goes then.

Thanks again.

Mike
 

Stakebed

Well Oiled
All-Star
Mar 4, 2020
4,961
Northern California
First Name
Joe
Willys Model
  1. Pickup
Willys Year:
  1. 1957
Inner seal, yes. You will need to pull the axle shaft from the differential and wheel bearing comes out at the same time. The race can remain in the tube. Then you need to remove the differential in order to R/R the inner seal. And since your removing the diff you may as well pull the other axle and do that inner seal also.
All the axle end shims you remove must go back on same side for original bearing setting.
You do have a manual, right?
Are you sure?

My understanding is that the front axles have the inner seals deep inside the axle tubes but the rear axles have the inner seals accessible from the end of the axle tube.
@mikel, you have not stated what you are working on. I know you stated it's a rear but which Willys vehicle? D44, D53, Timken?
 

mikel

Bigger Hammer
Oct 14, 2019
55
Georgia
First Name
Mike
Willys Model
  1. Jeepster
Willys Year:
  1. 1950
I working on a 1950 Jeepster, Planar front suspension and the rear should be a Dana 23. Is it possible to install the bearing/race backwards. I was expecting the axle with cone bearing to come out pretty easily (and leaving the race in the axle tube. The axle doesn't want to come out and so I used a slide hammer to try and coax it. It looks like the race is on the outside and as I use the slide hammer, the race seems to be moving outward. Before I get too crazy with the pullers, does this even seem plausible. Am I correct in saying that at this point I don't have to pull the differential cover ???
Are you sure?

My understanding is that the front axles have the inner seals deep inside the axle tubes but the rear axles have the inner seals accessible from the end of the axle tube.
@mikel, you have not stated what you are working on. I know you stated it's a rear but which Willys vehicle? D44, D53, Timken?

er and remove a key, etc.???
 

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Fred46

Bigger Hammer
Oct 5, 2020
56
Alliance, OH
First Name
Fred
Willys Model
  1. Wagon
  2. Pickup
  3. Jeepster
  4. CJ
Willys Year:
  1. 1946
  2. 1948
  3. 1950
  4. 1955
  5. 1961
You’re on the right track. Model 23 rear axle race is to the outside of the bearing. Slide hammer needed to pull axle and remove bearing & race. Then you can reach the seal. I’ve always hated that as it just seems that’s too much impact bearing to race to remove. But it does work. Clean/Inspect bearing and replace if questionable.
Ignore my statement to remove diff for the inner seal. That’s a different axle. Sorry.
 

mikel

Bigger Hammer
Oct 14, 2019
55
Georgia
First Name
Mike
Willys Model
  1. Jeepster
Willys Year:
  1. 1950
Thanks for all the comments. I did get the bearing and race out although it was quite a struggle. My slide hammer didn't seem to have enough force to get the race out. I ended up using a 'Bearing Separator ' from that famous Chinese tool store. I put the nut with washer back on the axle and set the tool up against the washer. Used two blots screwed into the separator and then unscrewed them to pull the race out. Worked well. The inner seal was easy. Apparently they no longer make the outer seal but KaiserWillys does sell the seal for a Jeep which will work but you have to re-drill the mounting holes. Now just to put it all back together.
 

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