gauge wiring help

BioTex

Sharpest Tool
Nov 15, 2009
224
Alpine, TX
Willys Model
Willys Year:
Can someone please tell me which of the two terminals on the back of the gauges is for battery power, and which is for the sender?

I can't find any markings, but don't want to pull the gauges to look closer. I need to know for the oil pressure gauge that reads 0 to 50 psi. and the water temp gauge. 1952 .

I just want to be certain I have them hooked up correctly. My Oil pressure gauge climbs to 24psi soon as I turn on the key. Then when I start the engine, it pegs. I purchased new senders from Willys America, and have runtz voltage reducers installed. Once I know for certain which terminal is which, then I can troubleshoot.

I have this diagram, but don't know if it is accurate as to polarity, because the drawing is not consistent.
 

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From what I can see with that drawing it appears to be pretty accurate for the the flow of how it would or should go. Knowing what you said about your oil pressure gauge that might be the one to start with. On your new sender did you use any kinda of thread lock when installed or was it metal on metal to the block for a good solid ground?

The wires to the senders should have power running thru them that would then ground to the engine and depending on the resistance indicate on the gauge.
Is your fuel gauge working properly??

Found this. Might help. From doing the wiring on my 69 CJ5 when I wired the gauges to the same pole indicated on the diagram. Looking at them from to run the wiring. I didn't have any issues.
http://www.usedwillysparts.com/images/W ... iagram.jpg
 
All the gauges on the first and second style of instrument cluster except the amp guage are the heated bimetalic type and polarity does not matter. I don't know about the third one big round gauge style cluster.
 
Eric B said:
From what I can see with that drawing it appears to be pretty accurate for the the flow of how it would or should go. Knowing what you said about your oil pressure gauge that might be the one to start with. On your new sender did you use any kinda of thread lock when installed or was it metal on metal to the block for a good solid ground?

The wires to the senders should have power running thru them that would then ground to the engine and depending on the resistance indicate on the gauge.
Is your fuel gauge working properly??

Found this. Might help. From doing the wiring on my 69 CJ5 when I wired the gauges to the same pole indicated on the diagram. Looking at them from to run the wiring. I didn't have any issues.
http://www.usedwillysparts.com/images/W ... iagram.jpg

I did use a thread sealant on the brass threads. Perhaps not getting a good ground. Will remedy that and try again.
 
BioTex said:
I did use a thread sealant on the brass threads. Perhaps not getting a good ground.
Will remedy that and try again.

Thread sealant will not cause a bad ground on sending units.
Liquid or paste type sealants only fill the voids between threads.
As the threads pull against each other, there is metal to metal contact.
Teflon tape, on the other hand should only be used for water and air connections
as the tape will prevent metal to meatal contact.
 
I know that on the newer vehicles that nothing can be used on the threads of a sensor. Must have full direct contact for proper operation. Newer vehicles have tighter a tolerance than the older ones.
Just a practice that I have seen used at work that cannot be varied.

my 2 cents.
 
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