Built...but not finished

I absolutely love your truck. It looks great. Very impressive. Congradulations!
 
Great job on the Willys. Don't worry what anyone else says, do it like you want and enjoy it. I have a 97 Mountaineer with only 140,000 miles on it I am saving for my next Willys, same 5.0 but AOD and 8.8 posi rear. I am 72 and I won't quit till (who knows). I figure if I keep busy I am better off, you know "use it or loose it". Keep going, you built a nice truck. Drive it and enjoy it.
 
Shame you didn't post your build photos as we all enjoy seeing them come back to life, many times over.
You have done a great job of it and love your personal touches on it. There is no slamming here of non stock mods which is why I post here too. Just respect for each others effort.
I can help you align the TJ front end if you want to do it yourself as wrote and how to for it many years ago.
http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm
You will have to use caster shims between the leafs and the saddle to adjust yours. I thought the relative angles between the diff and the true caster were the same between XJ and TJ, but not 100% on that.
 
I love everything about your truck and your determination. Got to respect people who get it done. Be proud.
 
Very nice looking truck. I also chose to use the Larger cj style lights. When I got my wagon the front signal light were just rusty buckets without sockets or lenses. I sold them on e-Bay for $60.00 and bought New CJ lightsMarch Quarantine 014.jpg for half of that.
 
I didn't like the glove compartment door behind the steering wheel so I removed it, welded in a plate and installed gauges that looked better for me.

I think you did a fine job on the dash. Looks quite period correct. Love the AC vents too.
 
Thanks for all the words of encouragement.

I am 73 and retired. It took me about 3 years to finish this one, working about 4 hours a day 5-6 days a week. Hey, I am an old man. Restoring Jeeps, cars, dune buggies are a hobby of mine. I never make any money when I sell them, really lose money when I count the price that I paid for them and the money I spent on parts. I don't even consider my labor as a cost; it is a hobby.

I left one off. I converted a 1993 Softail Custom Harley into a trike. I bought a kit and did all the work except the paint job. I have a brother-in-law that I went through 12 years of school with. We are the same age. His hobby is golf. I came in one evening and I was filthy dirty from grinding and wire brushing the Willys frame. I told my wife that I thought Mickael had the better hobby.

This is my last full restoration. I have had 3 back surgeries with 4 discs fused and have been on prescription arthritis medicine since I turned 40. I want to sell the truck, but I want to keep it a while until I build up my trust that it will not give any problems for a future buyer. I never cut corners with anything I build. I build it like I am keeping it for the rest of my life.

My first new car that I owned was a 1964 Comet Caliente that I bought in 1965, the year that I graduated from high school. That is my next project, but I want it finished and looking good. My work on it will be washing and waxing it and installing a new set of floor mats or wheels if needed.

I was a stalker a lot of times on this forum. Checked in almost everyday to see how other people were building their trucks and wagons. Didn't post much, asked some questions, but learned a lot. I will post more pictures when I start taking it out more.

When I decide to sell it, I will post. Maybe you can give me advice whether I am high or low.

Thanks,

Tinnocker
 
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Please post gas mileage when you put a few miles on it, also axle ratio...Phil
 
The axle ratio is 4.10 with a 5 speed overdrive transmission with a Summit 600 cfm carburetor. I'll post the gas mileage when I drive it some. I will try to get the alignment checked next week. I cut the coil springs off a TJ Jeep Dana 35 and welded leaf spring pads and have YJ Jeep leaf springs on the front. Just guessed at the caster and will probably have to adjust with shims/wedges. Been holding off on driving it much until I get that done.
 
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Tinnocker,
looking at your build I would have guessed you were much younger.
Your build is fresh.
I like my truck to be close to stock but can appreciate a proper build like yours.
And remember old golfers loose their balls
 
You did a great job... I really like the way a small block Ford looks in a Willys...Again, very nice pickup..

No question, a small block Ford looks much, much better than a SBC.

I wondered why the purist hadn't got on to me about the grill and then I saw why, no front pictures. I filled in the small holes for the stock turn signals and added larger CJ turn signal lights. I changed the location a little because it just seemed more symmetrical to me.

Very, very nice, work, but the turn signals don't look right to me. :)
 
It has been a while since I posted and thanks for all the support and comments. I read on line where when adding a new or used power steering box that the lines will have air in them...makes sense. So while sitting still I would turn the steering wheel from stop to stop. I did this 8 or ten times and got the air out and the steering is fine. I added a Old Man Emu 2" spring lift to the rear and now it is sitting level, not nose up. I lost my brakes pulling out of my driveway. Bad master cylinder so I did some research. It had a stock YJ Jeep master with a booster. Got on a Jeep forum and found out the master off a 1979 and up (?) Ford or Mercury big car was a bigger bore master and would give better braking for the rear disc. I got the Mercury Marquis. Had to bend up some different brake lines to hook it up and am now waiting on my bleeding partner (wife) to help me. I have a slight vibration coming from the driveshaft. I cut the Explorer shaft and slid a cut Jeep shaft in it and welded it together to mate the Explorer rear and Jeep transfer case. I think I can get it balanced and it will eliminate the vibration, again it is slight, I can feel it, not hear it.
I have been into Jeeps all my life and I saw how to balance one myself. Use a SS hose clamp. The screw mechanism may be enough weight . It is trial and error to find the place it works. I think it is straight since I slid one into the other and it was a tight fit and I slid it in about 4 inches.
Pump the gas pedal a little and the 302 fires up immediately. I love a small block Ford.:)
 
Robert.

You definitely can use the hose clamp trick, I have even used 2! You can even take an old wheel weight and flatten it, clamp it in place. Then when you find the sweet spot mark everything, weigh it on a gram scale and make a steel plate that you can weld in place.

Dave
 
It has been a while since I posted and thanks for all the support and comments. I read on line where when adding a new or used power steering box that the lines will have air in them...makes sense. So while sitting still I would turn the steering wheel from stop to stop. I did this 8 or ten times and got the air out and the steering is fine. I added a Old Man Emu 2" spring lift to the rear and now it is sitting level, not nose up. I lost my brakes pulling out of my driveway. Bad master cylinder so I did some research. It had a stock YJ Jeep master with a booster. Got on a Jeep forum and found out the master off a 1979 and up (?) Ford or Mercury big car was a bigger bore master and would give better braking for the rear disc. I got the Mercury Marquis. Had to bend up some different brake lines to hook it up and am now waiting on my bleeding partner (wife) to help me. I have a slight vibration coming from the driveshaft. I cut the Explorer shaft and slid a cut Jeep shaft in it and welded it together to mate the Explorer rear and Jeep transfer case. I think I can get it balanced and it will eliminate the vibration, again it is slight, I can feel it, not hear it.
I have been into Jeeps all my life and I saw how to balance one myself. Use a SS hose clamp. The screw mechanism may be enough weight . It is trial and error to find the place it works. I think it is straight since I slid one into the other and it was a tight fit and I slid it in about 4 inches.
Pump the gas pedal a little and the 302 fires up immediately. I love a small block Ford.:)
Robert. When messing with master cylinders on 4 wheel disk brakes, make sure you have the correct proporting valve and not one for disk/drum application. Some master cylinders also have residual pressure valves built into the outlets. A drum requires around 12 psi residual pressure to stop the springs from returning the wheel cylinder too fast. Disc only use 0-2PSI. If you have 12 PSI residual to the rear disk they will get tighter and tighter till they lock up. Then you have to break a line loose to release some of the pressure. Summit racing has inline residual pressure valves fairly reasonable.
Love the little 302 Ford also. 63 Willys wagon with 302, 5 speed. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-rcv-2
Rodney
 
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Rodney, I have a junction box under the master that the front and rear line from the master go to. There is an adjustment knob to adjust the fluid to the the back brakes, more or less fluid and I guess more or less pressure. Is that what you are talking about? Is there a trial an error way to adjust it and if so how? I have adjusted it by getting up to about 20 mph and locking the brakes and look to see if the front and rear skid marks are about the same. Is that how to do it. I think you would need more on the rear but I may be wrong. Maybe more on the front since it is heavier and the weight is shifting to the front in a panic stop.
 
Sounds like you have an adjustable proporting valve. Basically you want that one adjusted so the rears don't lock up before the front. Not the same as a residual pressure valve. The main time that RPV's come into effect is when using a disc front/drum rear master cylinder with 4 wheel disc. Some have the RPV built into the outlet, and you can some times can take the fitting out and there will be a small rubber valve under it that can be removed.. 1968-69 Corvette 4 wheel disc is a good master cylinder for most 4 wheel disc brake conversions. They will bolt up to a Hydro-Boost also. I have 4 wheel disc, corvette master and an Olds Diesel Hydro- Boost in my 1962 Cutlass. And the thing will stand on it's nose.
 

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Rodney, I just confirmed that the Raybestos MC36468 master cylinder is a replacement master for the 1975 Ford Thunderbird 460 v8 which had rear disc brakes via Rockauto parts. Now I don't have to worry about the residual pressure valve as the master should take care of that, am I right? The 1975 T bird was a very large and heavy car.
 
Yes. Disc brake calipers never pull the pads back from the rotors, they always just glide along so they need very little residual pressue(0-2psi).. Drums use springs to pull the shoes in; with out a little pressure(12psi) in the wheel cylinder, the spring pressure would empty the wheel cyliner every time you let off on the brake, needing several pumps of the brake pedal to bring the shoes back in contact with the drums.
Kind of along winded explenation and sentences running together, but I hope that makes sence.
Rodney
 
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