axle taper

55 willys

Gear Grinder
Mar 19, 2010
15
hollister.ca
Willys Model
Willys Year:
I have a 55 wagon 4x4. are the hubs on a taper on the axle? and that requires a puller... right. I don't have a manual ,thats why I ask .hope I spelled everything right. thank you
 
Yes a puller is most likely needed to get your drums off on the rear.

http://www.kaiserwillys.com/product/165 ... ehubpuller

This is an example of what you will need to get the drums off on the rear.

After that, I do a poor man puller. Get the backing plate out of the way. Then put the drum back on to use it a slide hammer to get the axle shaft bearing/race to come out on the outter end. I know it's not the proper way. But I haven't found a slide hammer that is large enough to fit the axle shaft.

Good luck
 
Yes, you will need the big puller and a lump hammer for smacking it. Leave the nut on the end of the axle, just a bit lose. This way the hub and puller don't go flying across your work area when the hub comes off.
 
Andrew,
Not wanting to step on Ric's toes here, but I don't trust the nut on the axle to keep that drum from flying. I've done this several times. Each time I use a chain. Put at least one link on a stud then put a lug nut on it. Wrap the rest of the chain around the leaf spring, with enough slack to let the drum pop loose but stay at the end of the axle. After you put the puller on and whack it a couple of times take yourself out of the line of fire. Get to the rear or the front of the drum to save yourself. The last time I did this I swear that drum would have gone through the side of the house if not chain restrained. Be careful!

After the initial removal they come off easier, but I still ALWAYS use a chain.
Steve
 
aquawilly54 said:
Andrew,
Not wanting to step on Ric's toes here, but I don't trust the nut on the axle to keep that drum from flying. I've done this several times. Each time I use a chain. Put at least one link on a stud then put a lug nut on it. Wrap the rest of the chain around the leaf spring, with enough slack to let the drum pop loose but stay at the end of the axle. After you put the puller on and whack it a couple of times take yourself out of the line of fire. Get to the rear or the front of the drum to save yourself. The last time I did this I swear that drum would have gone through the side of the house if not chain restrained. Be careful!

After the initial removal they come off easier, but I still ALWAYS use a chain.
Steve
Click to expand...

This is all good and well, but kind of takes the fun out of....stitches, broken windows or black eyes when you get done doing things the hard way....my way :oops: :oops: :oops:
 
Can't get rear hub off HELP

I read the links below and am using a similar puller to the Kaiser Willys product without any luck. I started to bend the puller. I have used lots of penetrating oil. Any other suggestions? I thought about heat, but where exactly do you apply it? Thanks for any suggestions
 
idahowagon said:
I read the links below and am using a similar puller to the Kaiser Willys product without any luck. I started to bend the puller. I have used lots of penetrating oil. Any other suggestions? I thought about heat, but where exactly do you apply it? Thanks for any suggestions
Click to expand...


A bit of heat on the flange just outside the axle and strike the puller shaft with a 3 pound or better hammer. Jim (61zep)
 
You might do better with a stronger puller. Try one that has 5 arms instead of 3 like the Kaiser one, it might do the job when the force is distributed more evenly.

I don't know if "the safety chain" idea will work if all five lugs are involved. Just make sure the big nut is well threaded on, not just holding on a single thread.

Once you get it off, make sure you use emery paper to clean the rust off both surfaces. and coat the surfaces in oil for a short time, then wipe clean very carefully. If you leave any oil on the mating surfaces you are defeating the cone design.
 

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Heres a simple cheap way to remove a rear hub. I've seen this done and it works. This only works if your Willys is a running, driving vehicle. Loosen the nut just a little bit, aprox 1/2 turn or until you see a few thousandths gap behind the nut and re-install the cotter key. Soak the end with your favorite lube and take it for a ride on a bumpy road, not the interstate. If your parking brake is in the wheels pull it on lightly to create some heat. The vibration and heat will loosen the hub. It might take a 1/2 mile or it might take 10. Keep a close eye on it for signs of it loosening and don't cook your brakes then drive it home and remove it. Many old timers have done it this way.
 
Ric's method is the correct way to do these drums. I've done hundreds of those his way (from Model A's to Jeeps, Dodges and IH). I don't think anybody mentioned that you tighten up the "wings" with a little hammer as pictured and then whack the end post with a real hammer. I use a 9# sledge and 3 or 4 whacks will do it usually. if not hit the "wings" again to further tighten the puller and hammer the end again. Also, squirt some oil on the big threads of the puller to protect the threads from stripping. I've only needed heat a couple of times in 40 plus years. Once in a while you will need to grind off the peaned over end to get the "hammering wing bar" off. Always used a 3 jaw hub puller myself. Willysway I've heard of your method too but never tried it. diggerG
 
Loosen the nut 1 turn, drive Jeep around block a few times, it may pop loose. If it does, great. If not use puller detailed above and use plenty of anti-sieze so it pops easy next time.
 
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