AND SO IT BEGINS: 1956 CJ5 total basketcase rebuild...

I made a little progress yesterday. The Gasket and seal kit came in for the Dana 18 Transfer case. It had all been degreased and cleaned last week, so the re-assy began. Shimming the rear output was a pain, but it came out good and got most of the case together with new seals and gaskets. Hopefully it won't mark it's territory too bad. Also bought a new shift lever pivot pin, as mine was missing in both cases I have.

The small parts kit and bearings for the Ford Toploader 4 speed were ordered from an outfit in Elgin Il. on Dec 8th,same day as the Dana 18 gasket set. it was picked up by USPS on the 10th they showed up today the 17th in Chigago, Il. Go USPS. 7 days across Il. How long to make it to Ca.????Willys Dana 18 007.jpgWillys Dana 18 010.jpgWillys Dana 18 005.jpgWillys Dana 18 006.jpgWillys Dana 18 008.jpg
 
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I tore the shop apart looking for my magnetic base dial indicator to set up the end play. I never did find it so I did it by feel. Some books say .004-.010 other say tighter at .002-.006. I called my son and he can't find it at his house, even though he used it last year on his 4L60E rebuild. Today I made a bracket to bolt up a spare dial indcator I had set aside new in the box. End play was .005 so good to go, I finished assy. including the Disk e-brake I made up for it a few weeks ago.
I bought all new bolts, Including flats and lock washers
Aluminum PTO cover is just on temperarily till the tranny and tranfer case get mated up.

Willys transfer case 002.jpgWillys transfer case 004.jpgWillys transfer case 005.jpg
 
I had some time in the shop today and the new correct shift arms for the Ford Top Loader came in, The Hurst Pro Comp Shifter that I got with it had a set of hashed up bent and welded Chevy arms and links. They looked like a mass of noodles and I couldn't get it to shift. I made spacers on the Lathe for the 1-2 and 3-4 arms, and machined threaded sleeves to replace the Hurst nylon bushings so that I could fit 3/8" Heim joints in the shifter. then used 3/8" ID threaded rods with left and right hand threaded Heim Joints for the 1-2 and 3-4 shifts. I found in a drawer a chrome plated bronze Marine turn buckle that was just the right length for reverse.
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The Anti Rattle Spring clips for the transfer case shift levers are lost in the USPS system so if and when they show up I'll finish with the springs, retaining bolt and grease fitting in the new pivot pin.

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Now that the shifter is finished and I know the transmission shifts well I installed the top cover plate and new gaskets/bolts and washers

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The last thing on the transfer case is the main shaft gear. The first case I had used the 26 tooth gear and this one uses the 29 tooth, so I'm in the market for a new gear before I can Button up the PTO Housing. I also have a new Clutch Fork and rubber dust boot on order.

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Thanks Joe! I was thinking about brake and clutch pedals and wanting to do a fire wall swing system with hydraulic clutch and modern 7" booster and master cylinder. I looked on the Internet at the Willwood Pedals. Most duals are around $200.00 I went to E-Bay last night late and looked them up and clicked on cheapest with shipping and one came up for $12.00.
I was dumfounded. $12.00 new, free shipping. It cant's be right I thought so I clicked Buy it Now and this morning I got tracking verification that it was shipped Fed Ex and will be here Thursday.
 
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Ok, I spoke too soon. Like the Old saying "If it seems too good to be true, It probably is". Well the swing pedals didn't show up, but I did get my $12.89 refunded.
The project continues. I loaded up the CJ5 and a bunch of parts and brought it all home today.CJ5 comes home 010.jpgCJ5 comes home 011.jpg
The Wife came up to see what I was doing and she actually approved. She said "After all, what else you gonna do with your time"

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She took pictures of it and sent them to her supervisor at work Saying " My husband bought me a new Jeep. I think it will Buff Out".
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I got all the parts unloaded and stripped it down some, I removed the Windshield and dash panel , all the wireing, switches, etc. I only saved the Speedo Cluster. I filled a trash can with JUNK and spent an hour pressure washing it. Under a dozen coats of paint. some of them even brushed on I think it was Turquoise originally.

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I went after the body with a 4 1/2" Side Winder grinder with cut off wheels and removed all the old snaps and assorted screws that held misterious brackets and nothing all. It had a Old Thunderbird heater, and 1964 Mustang seats mounted to the Stock frames. I feel lucky to have the frames that mount the driver seat over the Fuel tank/bomb and the tilt frame for access to the tool box under the passenger seat.
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The pressure washer blew some good sized chuncks of bondo out exposing , cancer, body cracks and even one spot with a piece of wood screwed on the back side to hold the bondo in. Definatly got some metal work to do.
Rodney out till next time.
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Good for you Rodney! I envy your ability to turn most anything in front of you into a top notch stylish ride with a git-err-done attitude.
Thanks Doug for the compliment! I have my work cut out for me on this one. Call it "Mission Impossible"! But i've decided to accept the Mission.
 
I am enjoying your build thread. Curious to see more custom machined parts for this CJ.
Any thoughts about a final color?
 
I am enjoying your build thread. Curious to see more custom machined parts for this CJ.
Any thoughts about a final color?
So far I'm thinking White Body with black bed liner interior floors, black roll bar, bumpers, diamond plate trim and rock guards and maybe Black fender flairs. Still floating on this one. With the 302 4 barrel carb and 4 speed toploader I might call it Wild Willys.
 
I remember the days of wire wheeling my M38, I used 5 wheels on the frame and body!! Great job on the cj5, looking forward to the build!
 
I remember the days of wire wheeling my M38, I used 5 wheels on the frame and body!! Great job on the cj5, looking forward to the build!
I bought a 5" fine wire cup brush for my 9" Side Winder grinder. I can barely handle the thing anymore. It can get away from you if you're not careful.
 
Seperated the Body from the frame. Actually there was nothing holding it together but rust. I know Vintage Don would make short work of the floor boards and supports along with the bed floor. But I spent an entire day taking pictures, and drawing pictures with all the measurements of body mounts and scrounging my scrap pile plus I made a trip to Auburn Iron Works and dug through threir "crop barrels" for treasures. I haven't made a cut yet, but I'm prepaired. Also bought a new face shield, clear welding hood lenses, new welding gloves, soap stone and assorted other items while at the welding shop.

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Rocket, you got a real project ahead of you but having seen your work before I know you are up to it. Good luck.
Thanks for the encouragment Joe. At least all the Covid mask laying around the house will come in handy.
 
Dont you just love the guy that put wood in the hat channels, looks like sandblasting time...Phil
 
I cut out the drivers floor today not a whole lot holding it together. At least I found solid enough metal after wire wheeling and lap sanding all the edges to be welded

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I used a cardboard pattern to transfer the floors shape to the sheet metal, cut and tack welded it in place.
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I used scraps from a metal fab shop that were 1" x 3" angle about 12 gauge to overlap and replace the back panel with. No trips to Walecks for this Willys.
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Tomorrow I'll finish the welds and start building the floor supports, no hat channel filled with oak this time around, and still no trips to Walecks.
 
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