If you want to use them, spray with brake clean and let them dry.
30-year-old brakes
- Thread starter Roger63CJ3B
- Start date
Roger63CJ3B
Bigger Hammer
Bleeding hasn't gone as easily as I expected it to. I obviously still have air in my lines because the pedal is really spongy and the rear wheels spin freely while the pedal is pressed. I was getting a nice stream of fluid at each wheel so I thought I was doing a good job. Does anyone know about how much fluid is in the lines themselves? If I bleed a cup out of each wheel is that enough to make sure there isn't anything between the MC and the WC? Are the bleeders one-way valves or do I need to close the bleeder mid stream? Getting the tube off mid stream and closing the valve is messy but I'll do it if that is what needs to happen.
I watched one video where he puts the cap back on after he tops off the MC but before he bleeds. Is that necessary? I hadn't seen that on other videos.
I watched one video where he puts the cap back on after he tops off the MC but before he bleeds. Is that necessary? I hadn't seen that on other videos.
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Bleeding is often a two person job.
Yes, you must close the bleeder before the other person releases the brake pedal. If not, your system sucks in air thru the open bleeder.
An alternative is to connect vacuum hose to the bleeder screw. Then punch a hole or drill a hole in a jar cap. You want a snug fit. Place the other end of your vacuum tubing into the jar cap. Fill the jar with enough brake fluid to keep the end of the hose submerged. Then you can press and release the brake pedal all you want. Air bubbles will blow out and brake fluid gets sucked back up. Eventually, your jar will get full and require partial emptying.
Many mek-a-niks put the m/c cap on because the act of pushing the brake pedal often results in fluid squirting out of the reservoir.
Yes, you must close the bleeder before the other person releases the brake pedal. If not, your system sucks in air thru the open bleeder.
An alternative is to connect vacuum hose to the bleeder screw. Then punch a hole or drill a hole in a jar cap. You want a snug fit. Place the other end of your vacuum tubing into the jar cap. Fill the jar with enough brake fluid to keep the end of the hose submerged. Then you can press and release the brake pedal all you want. Air bubbles will blow out and brake fluid gets sucked back up. Eventually, your jar will get full and require partial emptying.
Many mek-a-niks put the m/c cap on because the act of pushing the brake pedal often results in fluid squirting out of the reservoir.
Roger63CJ3B
Bigger Hammer
I was not doing this.
But I was doing this. I think my problem is from removing the tube before closing the valve.
That does create a mess. I have mastered this step.
And make sure you are keeping the master full!
Don't do what I did (more than once) which was to suck in more air at the master cause I bled so much at the wheel. Basically starting over at that point to purge the lines. The stock master, if you are using that, holds a lot less than I thought.
And no real need to remove the hose each time you open and close the bleeder. Get a wrench on the bleeder and leave it there, then just open and close it with the hose on
Don't do what I did (more than once) which was to suck in more air at the master cause I bled so much at the wheel. Basically starting over at that point to purge the lines. The stock master, if you are using that, holds a lot less than I thought.
And no real need to remove the hose each time you open and close the bleeder. Get a wrench on the bleeder and leave it there, then just open and close it with the hose on
Roger63CJ3B
Bigger Hammer
I've got the stock master cylinder and I've pumped it dry on this project.
- Oct 5, 2020
- 754
- First Name
- Fred
- Willys Model
- Wagon
- Pickup
- Jeepster
- CJ
- Willys Year:
- 1946
- 1948
- 1950
- 1955
- 1961
I use one of these. A one man job.
Vacuum bleed at each cylinder.
Fill master cylinder between bleeding each wheel.
www.harborfreight.com
Vacuum bleed at each cylinder.
Fill master cylinder between bleeding each wheel.
Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit
Amazing deals on this Brake Bleeder And Vacuum Pump Kit at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
Roger63CJ3B
Bigger Hammer
I was just trying one of those. I can’t get a good seal around my 1/4” bleeders to create a vacuum. I tried a 3/8” bleeder and got a better seal. Then the MC ran dry. 
I tried putting a wrench over the hose to open/close the bleeder but with the brake line, the WC bolts, and the fact the backing plate is designed in a way that makes the bleeder recessed I am unable to get the wrench on. It’s frustrating but I’m going to just have to find a way to make this happen.
I tried putting a wrench over the hose to open/close the bleeder but with the brake line, the WC bolts, and the fact the backing plate is designed in a way that makes the bleeder recessed I am unable to get the wrench on. It’s frustrating but I’m going to just have to find a way to make this happen.
- Oct 5, 2020
- 754
- First Name
- Fred
- Willys Model
- Wagon
- Pickup
- Jeepster
- CJ
- Willys Year:
- 1946
- 1948
- 1950
- 1955
- 1961
It’s a fairly high vacuum. I found small bubbles streaming out. Found It was sucking air around the threads of the bleeder. So I dabbed a little anti-sieze on the bleeder valve threads, problem solved.I was just trying one of those. I can’t get a good seal around my 1/4” bleeders to create a vacuum. I tried a 3/8” bleeder and got a better seal. Then the MC ran dry.
I tried putting a wrench over the hose to open/close the bleeder but with the brake line, the WC bolts, and the fact the backing plate is designed in a way that makes the bleeder recessed I am unable to get the wrench on. It’s frustrating but I’m going to just have to find a way to make this happen.
I tried something similar, mitivac I think. I wasn’t smart enough to get it to work. Seemed like when I loosened the bleeder enough, it just sucked air around the threads. I gave up after a while instead of figuring it out, and went old school, two people.
Roger, try a smaller hose that just fits over the nipple of the bleeder tight. You might find that gives enough room for the wrench. Or just try to tighten the bleeder by twisting the tube? Shouldn’t take much.
What I really need is to finish my pressure bleeder setup. That’s got to be the way to go.
I was scared to put anything on the threads, worrying about contamination. Wish I’d thought of that. Glad it worked for you.
- Oct 5, 2020
- 754
- First Name
- Fred
- Willys Model
- Wagon
- Pickup
- Jeepster
- CJ
- Willys Year:
- 1946
- 1948
- 1950
- 1955
- 1961
I thought the same.
Just a light smear on the threads using a q-tip. Keep it off the sealing surface.
Keeps bleeders from rust/corrosion seizing too.
Roger63CJ3B
Bigger Hammer
I’ll try that. Thanks!
Local parts store should have quick bleeders or speed bleeders.
Basically you crack them open and push on the pedal and it's a one way valve of sorts.
Still need the long hose and a bottle of sorts to catch the fluid.
Submerge the hose in fluid and it won't suck air.
I used Russell 639590, but Dorman makes them and other less expensive options are out there and maybe pair up with a coupon or local sale, could ask the parts guy for any discounts.
For example if you order online and pick up in store you can save 20% at times off some Auto Parts website.
Really saved me time and hassle.
Basically you crack them open and push on the pedal and it's a one way valve of sorts.
Still need the long hose and a bottle of sorts to catch the fluid.
Submerge the hose in fluid and it won't suck air.
I used Russell 639590, but Dorman makes them and other less expensive options are out there and maybe pair up with a coupon or local sale, could ask the parts guy for any discounts.
For example if you order online and pick up in store you can save 20% at times off some Auto Parts website.
Really saved me time and hassle.
Roger63CJ3B
Bigger Hammer
What is the difference between the quick bleeder and a regular bleeder. The process you described seems to be the same.
I’ve used the speedy bleeders and I am a fan. They have a built in check valve. When you crack them open they allow fluid to flow out when you depress the pedal, but block air from flowing back in when you release the pedal. I never accomplished a firm pedal until I started using these.
Process is to crack open the bleeder. Pump brakes until clear fluid shows up in your collection jar. Close bleeder and repeat on next drum. Of course you keep the MC full.
Roger63CJ3B
Bigger Hammer
That seems so elementary I can't believe regular bleeders aren't one way valves. I thought they were.
This is a dumb question. I have the 1/4"x28 bleeders right now. I also have one 3/8"x?? that fits my WC. Is the 3/8" I have a 28? All the 3/8" I see online are x24.
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Oldpappy
Sharpest Tool
Several pages back (posts 269 and 279) I described how I bleed the brakes. The other methods work, but I usually am working alone, so don't have someone around to pump the pedal, and I just haven't had much luck with the vacuum bleeders I have tried. A one gallon sprayer cost me $9 at Lowes, the bleeder cap I provided a link to is also not very expensive. Makes this a very easy and fast job.
YES, you must close the valve while the system is pressurized.
If a valve is open when the helper lets off the pedal air will be sucked back into the system when the pedal goes back up.
YES, you must close the valve while the system is pressurized.
If a valve is open when the helper lets off the pedal air will be sucked back into the system when the pedal goes back up.
Oldpappy
Sharpest Tool
Another advantage of this system is there is enough fluid in the sprayer tank that I don't have to worry about the MC going dry, so don't have to get up and down to go check it. At my age that is a very big advantage. I don't fill the gallon tank completely, just pour in a fresh quart bottle. Brake fluid, once opened will absorb moisture from the air so I discard the left over fluid, and use fresh the next time.