Very cool Dale! Glad you drew out the old Sensei from hiding. I truly miss his wit....
I just rebuilt my Holley 2300 [list #4412] 2 weeks ago. I used this list from Holley to identify the internals specs and the proper 'Renew Kit'. This list identifies 12 different 'Renew Kits' for the Holley 2300, depending on what the list number of the carb is. But, it sounds like you've already got what you need. Nicely done.
Looking good. Great work!Speaking of that body guy-->he managed to graft the firewall on.
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Also had him make up a battery tray as I found out the trays on these things are welded on and perpendicular to the 226 (226 long edge of battery goes to firewall and on 230 short edge does to allow fitment of everything under the hood). @timd32 was kind enough to measure out about every dimension you could conceive and that made it easy for my body guy to make one up (minus the tie down at this point). Note that the grill prop/bracket on the driver's side will need to be moved slightly inboard to make the tray/battery fit correctly.
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So, it appears everyone is on the same page again.
You are The Man Dale! Glad to see you are still moving forward. Looking forward to our next meet up Brother.
Looking good. Great work!
This is probably digging back a ways, do you have or recall measurements for the bushing in the A arm side of your winch?Still continuing on the winch front for now and getting the internals all reassembled. Before any reassembly though, how bought a beer?
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The back story is there is no real clear definition of how much fluid to add to this Koenig winch. I know that the likely level isn't "to the fill plug" as the bushings for the driveshaft have no seal and actually have grease zerks for their own lubrication. So, Dad said I bet a beer can will fit in there and the picture was born. We figured from our experiment about 18 oz would provide adequate lubrication and cover the bottom of the ring gear. Speaking of the ring gear...had to hammer it all back together on to the driveshaft after cleaning and some minor Emery cloth work because it got all messed up hammering it out.
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Below is a picture with the "pinion" gear installed instead of a beer can and the ring gear as well.
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You can also see one of the end caps in the upper right of that picture and that is where the fun really began. Essentially you have to all but fully seat the pinion shaft in the end caps before final assembly or the whole thing just won't play nice. So Dad and I tried to get it all to work out, but the winch had other plans. Bottom line is the pinion shaft was mushroomed and the bushings were all messed up (hard to see with the naked eye on either front). One bushing wouldn't play nice and this is what happened.
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A little closer.
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The irony as shown in the second picture is that one of the bushings had been broken for some time as evidenced by the oxidation. Anyway, I measured the ID/OD with my micrometer and believe that Grainger has these in stock. Another project that just won't give up without a fight.
This is probably digging back a ways, do you have or recall measurements for the bushing in the A arm side of your winch?
Mine is missing, I think it’d work better if that bushing was reinstalled.
Thanks-
Ship it to @Gojeep's painter.Says he will have paint on within 2 months. I doubt it but hey crazier things have happened.
I think the shipping might be cheap, compared to the paint job.Ship it to @Gojeep's painter.
Thanks!Logan,
Let me get back to you with some measurements...they were available at the local hardware store as I recall so not all that uncommon.
Minor updates on the project itself in terms of what I am doing. Had a rough time bending stainless with the tubing bender Dad and I bought from Summit so ended up sourcing an older Rigid Bender that was made in America...did the trick and kept on kicking. Ended up finishing more than just these vacuum lines but we all know how pictures go sometimes. Just have to add fluids and then we will try bump starting before the chassis returns to the body guy...
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...speaking of him...he is moving at the speed of galloping turtles...again...but moving. Tailgate holes had to be redrilled as a prior employee messed them up. Also the Tornado firewall bump has finally been grafted and primed in place.
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Says he will have paint on within 2 months. I doubt it but hey crazier things have happened.
Can you make me new springs for a price?
Thanks!
I pulled a tap measure on mine and came up with 1 7/8OD by 1 1/4 ID. But that’s a bit of a swag, if you have a mic and could measure I would greatly appreciate it.
My local hardware store didn’t have anything close. But the big town an hour away might.
I think the shipping might be cheap, compared to the paint job.
I still have problems grasping the idea of 10-$20,000 paint jobs. I think most car manufactures in the 40's, 50's and 60's might have spent 30 minutes on prep and 15 minutes painting. In the end they might have spent 2 bucks on paint. The early Willys trucksView attachment 160551 all seemed to be Potomac Grey. There just happens to be a US Navy Supply Depot on the Potomac River. After WW2 they probably sold Willys a couple hundred 55 gallon drums of Battle Ship Grey paint. I used US Forest Service surplus Pea green on my wagon. I might have $100.00 in material.
Yes I amJust seeing this now. Are you looking for trigger springs?
Bad news other than the late response; I actually didn’t need the bushing on the A Arm frame now that I have had time to take a breather and look at all this. It ended up being for the case. I apologize for thinking otherwise.
Yes I am