Pete's 1952 CJ3a- "Barnacle Will"

I finished up the bikini top for the 3 over the last few days.

Once I had the piece sewn for the channel in the windshield, I test fitted the top fabric to the widdshield and marked where they two would sew together
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Here's the bead piece pinned to the top piece, ready to sew
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I added a couple of snaps on the corners. The snaps were already there on the windshield frame.
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I bought a couple of cinch straps with metal buckles to use for the rear tie down straps. I put them around the hoop and footman loops to figure out where they would be when the fabric is pulled tight to the tub.
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For the rear piece of fabric, I sewed a seam along the hoop, to get the right angle in the fabric around the corners of the hoop. Here's the front section finished, and held in place to the straps with vice grips to check the fit.
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I used a pencil to draw the shape of the cutout on the rear piece of canvas, between the straps.
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And here's the finished product, with the straps sewn on to the canvas.
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Happy with the way it turned out.
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There's a few wrinkles in the canvas that won't pull out, but that's ok, for a quick and dirty summer top.
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I also mounted a Jerry can I found on the local facebook market place, and spare tire from my wagon, behind the driver's seat. I decided I didn't want them hanging on the tail gate, since we will be wheeling this in Moab and don't want to come off of a step and mash something.
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Another rear view of the top.
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In hindsite, I would have made the hoop taller, so that when down it would wrap the back of the tub better, and I may make another taller one for this reason at some point. In order to stand the spare tire behind the seat, the hoop needs to tuck as far back as possible for the tire to fit. For now, I have to remove the bolts that hold the hoop onto the brackets, and tuck it down in side the tub. The spreader bar conveniently mounts to the tail gate through an existing hole for the bolt and wing nut.
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Pete
 
The engine us running at 190 degrees, according to the temp gauge. Not sure how accurate the gauge is, but I assumed that the thermostate was a 190. I decided to change it to a 160, and promptly snapped two of the bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the head...

I soaked the broken bolts in a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF overnight, which worked well enough to get the housing off of the broken bolts.
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I then heated the bolts with a propane torch till hot, and then melted a candle on them, letting the wax suck down into the threads.
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The wax seemed to help, and I was able to wiggle them back and forth to get them loose, and then twist them out with vice grips.
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I reinstalled the new thermostat with a new gasket, and let it sit overnight before starting. I had hosed off the engine, and there were still puddles of water in the spark plug recesses, and when I started it up, I noticed that all four of the plugs were leaking compression... blowing bubbles in the water.
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The plugs were old and crusty and had been pulled and reinstalled who knows how many times, so I replaced them with a new set to get them to seal.
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Also bought a new gas gauge and sender. The old gauge is 6v, and the sender was dead and leaking fuel around the seal. Joseph pulled it apart earlier, and tried to get it to work, but it was beyond repair.
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I installed the new parts, and it works. I don't like the new look of the gauge though, so thinking about making a 12v-6v voltage reducer to use the old gauge which seems to work, so that it looks right along side the other crusty gauges on the dash.

I still have a few things on my list of to-do's before Friday, when I'll be headed south to Moab for the weekend to wheel with Grandpa's Jeep, Bam Bam, Johnny Geep, and a hand full of other guys who are on their way to the Colorado Fall Color Tour. Should be fun, can't wait...

Pete
 
The engine us running at 190 degrees, according to the temp gauge. Not sure how accurate the gauge is, but I assumed that the thermostate was a 190. I decided to change it to a 160, and promptly snapped two of the bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the head...

I soaked the broken bolts in a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF overnight, which worked well enough to get the housing off of the broken bolts.
IMG_6261.jpg


I then heated the bolts with a propane torch till hot, and then melted a candle on them, letting the wax suck down into the threads.
IMG_6263.jpg


IMG_6264.jpg


The wax seemed to help, and I was able to wiggle them back and forth to get them loose, and then twist them out with vice grips.
IMG_6267.jpg


I reinstalled the new thermostat with a new gasket, and let it sit overnight before starting. I had hosed off the engine, and there were still puddles of water in the spark plug recesses, and when I started it up, I noticed that all four of the plugs were leaking compression... blowing bubbles in the water.
IMG_6271.jpg


The plugs were old and crusty and had been pulled and reinstalled who knows how many times, so I replaced them with a new set to get them to seal.
IMG_6274.jpg


IMG_6275.jpg


Also bought a new gas gauge and sender. The old gauge is 6v, and the sender was dead and leaking fuel around the seal. Joseph pulled it apart earlier, and tried to get it to work, but it was beyond repair.
IMG_6268.jpg

I installed the new parts, and it works. I don't like the new look of the gauge though, so thinking about making a 12v-6v voltage reducer to use the old gauge which seems to work, so that it looks right along side the other crusty gauges on the dash.

I still have a few things on my list of to-do's before Friday, when I'll be headed south to Moab for the weekend to wheel with Grandpa's Jeep, Bam Bam, Johnny Geep, and a hand full of other guys who are on their way to the Colorado Fall Color Tour. Should be fun, can't wait...

Pete
 
I think you will experience people asking you where they can buy that top Pete. It looks that good!

Regarding the 'stat, good ol' hot wrench works every time for loosening stubborn fasteners.
 
Not much to report lately, but I've done a few little things in the last few days on the 3A.

@WV Steve donated a spare wheel to the cause (thanks Steve!). I saved one of the old tires that came with the Jeep for a spare, so I had it mounted with a new tube at the tire shop.
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I wanted to have a recovery point on the rear, so I picked up a nicely patina'd pintle on ebay that fits the bill.
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Also worked over the speedo. It was missing the cable when we bought the Jeep, so I bought a new one. I put the new cable on the speedo, and tried turning the other end of the cable by hand and it wouldn't turn... So, I pulled out the gauge and took it apart. The guts were just stuck from years of sitting. I cleaned it up, lubed the moving parts, and it now works great. It's even accurate on the highway despite having oversized tires.

The clutch and brake pedals were missing the return springs and bracket, and there was a bungee cord doing the job. I got new springs and fab'd a bracket to put them on. Works much better now, and with better spring pressure on the pedals they don't rattle around so much with the all the slop in the worn out pedal bushings. :)

I drove it to work yesterday for another shake down run, and all seems well. We are planning to head back to Moab over Halloween for a few days, and want to make sure everything is still working since I hadn't driven it since the last trip a few weeks ago.

More to come...

Pete
 
Yep, that's top speed and wound out. Overdrive would be great, and on the want list.

I prefer Idaho, but it's a completely different experience in Moab. The trails around here are mostly BLM dirt roads with incredible views and not much technical other than steep or washed out. In Moab, it's other worldly and lots of trails ranging from easy peasy to no way I'm doing that... I've been going to Moab for about 20 years off and on. First going down for the national parks, then an annual car show in my '50 Plymouth (sold in 2010), and then started with Jeeps in 2011 when I got my wagon trail worthy and started helping with the Rally every May.

Here's what it's like here in Idaho, taken ten years ago elk hunting with my Dad. The view from this spot hasn't changed at all.
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Pete
 
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Pete, you're welcome for the wheel. Moab is different. As a kid my parents always went to Ouray also to various desert places. In Ouray we jeeped other places we camped. Dad was born in Tomboy. Uncle at Camp Bird. Had been to Moab in passing without jeeping other than in the early 60's when I took my Scout over Elephant Hill and the following year when I took a rental CJ6 from Ouray over the Hill. Went back in 2015 with my 3A, to Elephant Hill, that is (and the Mt. Ellen, Hanksville search for the wild buffalo herd). Wasn't until going to your and Casey's Willys Rally that I did Hell's Revenge. It was an eye opener. Watched Casey come up Hell's Gate. Never thought I'd do that. Have done it twice now. Moab is really visually challenging but less damaging than in the mountain rocks. Did enjoy the return to Elephant Hill with you and others in September.

Have you thought about the Rubicon in July 2010? Could be another eye-opener for both of us.
 
I've been busy working on Barnacle Will here and there, but haven't had much time to update the build thread...

A couple of months ago, I decided to try and get the factory air cleaner mounted. The old oil bath filter was included with the jeep when we bought it, but it was tossed in the back and there was an oily foam filter mounted to the carb. The crossover tube, carb air horn, and rubber fittings were missing. The oily foam filter would plug with dirt after a short dusty trail ride, and would have to be cleaned out periodically on the trail to keep it running.
I dug out the oil bath, and opened it up to see what kind of mess it would be. To my surprise, it looks new inside, like it has never been oiled. It was full of weeds from critters, so I cleaned it out and got it ready to mount.

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I found a crossover tube from a member of the CJ3A forum, with the correct patina already on it. :)
Mounted the tube, with a new air horn and rubber fittings.
Also was able to get rid of the little air filter I had on the oil fill pipe, and attach a hose to the crossover tube.
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One of the firewall brackets was missing, so I whipped out my CAD (cardboard aided design) to craft a new one. I also did a quicky patina paint job to approximate the finish of the firewall and other bracketry so the new bracket wouldn't feel out of place
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I had a piece of heater hose that fit the air filter and crossover tube in the stash, to connect it all together.
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The Jeep has a battery cut off switch, that was mounted right where the air filter bracket was supposed to be. I moved it to another existing hole in the firewall, farther over and up out of the way to get the new backet mounted in the right spot.
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Next on my list, was to tackle the front axle. I've been collecting parts for a while, and decided to dive in after Joseph headed back to school.

New horn button and wire, knuckle seals, and a rear pinion seal.
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I bought a highline ubolt kit from www.bigwillyjeep.com. This is the You-Weld-IT kit, to save a few bucks.
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Joseph got them welded for me before he headed out.
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Front Lock Right locker for the Dana 25
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And the teardown begins...
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The axle shafts that were in the jeep were the Bendix type, and they were making some unhappy noises in 4WD.
You can see the wear grooves in the spots where the balls ride.
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Working on closed knuckles is such a joy... a rube goldberg assembly of parts and a bucket of grease...
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While I had the knuckles off, I decided to do the knuckle bolt upgrade. The inside of the knuckles need to be surfaced with a counterbore bit to make flat spots for the new button head bolts that go in from the inside. This is a much stronger setup for mounting the spindles for heavy off road use.
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I chased the threaded holes with a tap to clean them up before installing the new bolts with locktite.
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New bolts in place, inside view
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New bolts in place, outside view
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The king pin bearing races were so notched that the knuckles would snap back to center when turned a bit... I'm sure this was contributing to a bit of steering wobble at higher speeds. I ordered new bearings to replace them. The races are easy to knock out and replace.
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I bought new axle shafts, the Spicer type, to replace the worn Bendix shafts. I'll keep the old ones for trail spares.
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Next, removing the carrier and installing the locker. Fortunately, unlike my wagon, the bearing caps have either never been off, or were put back in the correct orientation. The bearing seats are line bored, so the caps have to be installed in the correct side to side and up and down locations, marked by the manufacturer with a punch.
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The carrier came out with out much grief, and I pulled the ring gear to get the spider gears out.
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The carrier bearings are shot, so I ordered new ones...
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Everything apart
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I don't have a bearing puller, so I used the old-school method... Cut the cage, cut the face of the race, hit it with a cold chisel, and crack it to get it off.
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