commando_willys
Sharpest Tool
Finest quality work! Love it.:cheers:
GrandWillys Project
- Thread starter Gojeep
- Start date
Gojeep
Well Oiled
Thanks Chris. 
Gojeep
Well Oiled
Only a little update.
Doing what I can on the windscreen trim. The windscreen is 220mm-9" wider than stock so each side has to extend half of that. No height change as the whole windscreen frame was lowered instead by sectioning the cowl 50mm-2".
The defrost louver lengthening finished. This is all you will see from the inside of the cab.
Enough airflow to work the defrost from the longer stock louver. The mounting holes were welded up and moved and repunched to be even where needed.
Now the door modifications are completed, I am stripping the doors right down and removing the hinges so I can spray the inside with a zinc coating. I drill a couple of small holes through the inner door skin and into the hinge so I can put them right back in the same spot. Each hinge was drilled differently so I know from where they came. When putting the hinge back, just line up the holes and screw it down.
Doing what I can on the windscreen trim. The windscreen is 220mm-9" wider than stock so each side has to extend half of that. No height change as the whole windscreen frame was lowered instead by sectioning the cowl 50mm-2".
The defrost louver lengthening finished. This is all you will see from the inside of the cab.
Enough airflow to work the defrost from the longer stock louver. The mounting holes were welded up and moved and repunched to be even where needed.
Now the door modifications are completed, I am stripping the doors right down and removing the hinges so I can spray the inside with a zinc coating. I drill a couple of small holes through the inner door skin and into the hinge so I can put them right back in the same spot. Each hinge was drilled differently so I know from where they came. When putting the hinge back, just line up the holes and screw it down.
Metalguy
Precision Fit
Must be taking some time off to relax? Enjoyed catching up on your thread. I've been stewing over mine for a few weeks now and have a question I think you could help me with.....maybe. I'd like to change the dash in a similar manner as you are doing with a donor. What I'm considering is buying a wrecked JK or the like and gutting the interior along with the HVAC system and the wiring harness. Going that route versus buying aftermarket components what are some pros and cons do you think?
Gojeep
Well Oiled
Yes have been bush and just got back.
Mine worked out well because I also swapped in the firewall/floor and it matched the width as well due to the widening I had done. Wanting less depth and or width than the donor would have made packaging more difficult as late model OEM HVAC is pretty big compared to aftermarket. This build might help as ran the whole JK dash that was cut down to suit. He is a member on here too and posted earlier this year. https://www.trucksandguns.com/1718/
Marcus,
I started reading your thread, sheesh a couple of months ago. It's taken me all that time to get caught up and I just got to the last page today. It has been a privilege to witness your process. On the one hand it has been an inspiration. I would read for a while and then go out and try to spend some time making progress on my project. It also motivates me to take my time and get things right rather than rush out of impatience to be done. On the other hand, it has been a little overwhelming because I know I'll never have the skill and more importantly the patience that you have. The challenge will be to find the happy medium for me where I can end up with a finished product that lives up to my standards, but I also can actually reach the finish line without burning out and giving up.
Thank you so much for all the time you've taken to document (and re-document) your progress. I can only imagine the amount of time that has taken you, but having only read your oldest posts in recent weeks, I'm quite glad you took the time to re-post all the images. I will certainly be going back at stages of my own project for tips and ideas.
With awe and gratitude,
Luke
I started reading your thread, sheesh a couple of months ago. It's taken me all that time to get caught up and I just got to the last page today. It has been a privilege to witness your process. On the one hand it has been an inspiration. I would read for a while and then go out and try to spend some time making progress on my project. It also motivates me to take my time and get things right rather than rush out of impatience to be done. On the other hand, it has been a little overwhelming because I know I'll never have the skill and more importantly the patience that you have. The challenge will be to find the happy medium for me where I can end up with a finished product that lives up to my standards, but I also can actually reach the finish line without burning out and giving up.
Thank you so much for all the time you've taken to document (and re-document) your progress. I can only imagine the amount of time that has taken you, but having only read your oldest posts in recent weeks, I'm quite glad you took the time to re-post all the images. I will certainly be going back at stages of my own project for tips and ideas.
With awe and gratitude,
Luke
Gojeep
Well Oiled
Many thanks Luke and glad to hear that people sometimes still need to read from the start. So many threads died with the whole Photobucket saga, I thought it was worth while to not let this thread die as well in the future.
Happy that you are finding a balance in your project too as everyone is different in the time they can take and still keep interested. Even I feel the strain especially the time taken on fitting out the doors. Very little to see for a lot of time spent! But I didn't want to get to a stage where I had done the exciting stuff and only be left with the hard and boring work. Too many projects stall then as not enough to look forward too.
Happy that you are finding a balance in your project too as everyone is different in the time they can take and still keep interested. Even I feel the strain especially the time taken on fitting out the doors. Very little to see for a lot of time spent! But I didn't want to get to a stage where I had done the exciting stuff and only be left with the hard and boring work. Too many projects stall then as not enough to look forward too.
Gojeep
Well Oiled
Played around seeing if I could use the stock door check strap with the bar going into the A pillar instead of the door, to aviod the one piece windows, but just couldn't get it to work that way. So I'm going the same way as many Jeeps have. Going to start by welding this heavier gauge angle inside the door and A pillar where mounts will be fixed.
Angle plug welded into position inside the door. This is just to make sure the screws don't get pulled through should the door be caught by a gust of wind or let go when parked on a side slope!
Ground down the welds and pilot holes drilled.
Bought some stainless steel footman loops and using an old leather belt for mock up.
These a often called Chicago Rivets or Screw Backs. I got nickel plated brass ones with a 8mm-5/16" head diameter. They just screw into themselves making riveting leather easy. Strap can be wrapped around a bar for instance that is already welded into place.
I have got it on back to front to make it easier to work out the length I need to make the strap.
Works really well and this mock up strap will work as a template for when it is time to do upholstery.
I'm actually trying to find another one of these belts that I used to have to make the strap from in the final version. Can't seem to find them anymore so if someone stops one, please let me know. The only belts I can find with Jeep stamped on them now have it only once at the very end with the belt holes too close to use it.
I like that idea. I was thinking something similar but I am concerned with the straps crushing the windlace when open. Maybe a small section of protection where the strap would contact? I have a section of 1/2" ×3" steel on the A pillar already to act as roll cage for less of a foot print in that already tight area. That end of my strap will be well secured.
I would have not thought to reinforce the door. Since mine are on the bench getting rust repairs and latch upgrades, why not? Thanks for sharing. Going to mimic your idea on this one.
Duane
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I would have not thought to reinforce the door. Since mine are on the bench getting rust repairs and latch upgrades, why not? Thanks for sharing. Going to mimic your idea on this one.
Duane
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Marcus, I have read every page of your build and I have learned so much about how to do things the right way and great looking at the same time, thank you, but please, when you do finish this please start another project, I need the "fix" because I am addicted to watching your work. About your door straps, they look really nice, but have you thought of duplicating the original Willys design only reverse it to go into the door frame instead of into the door? I have seen this on some older cars, the only difference is the link would have to be curved, but it would work the same and not have any issues with contacting the interior trim. Just another way of looking at it. Don't mind me, press on, you are doing fine. Thanks for taking all the time to document your skills, it is greatly appreciated.
Gojeep
Well Oiled
Many thanks Gary for your comments.
Don't know if I necessarily show the 'right' way, but a way of doing things anyway.
I am still keeping my eye out with the door limiting, but at least have one solution ready to go.
Don't worry as already have the front clip for the next project for my wife which will be even more custom and unique. Wont be on this forum though as too old a Willys for here, but I'll make sure I drop a link to it when the time comes.
Don't know if I necessarily show the 'right' way, but a way of doing things anyway.
I am still keeping my eye out with the door limiting, but at least have one solution ready to go.
Don't worry as already have the front clip for the next project for my wife which will be even more custom and unique. Wont be on this forum though as too old a Willys for here, but I'll make sure I drop a link to it when the time comes.
Nicolson
Sharpest Tool
Sure looks nice Gojeep. Did you use chemical stripper on your body parts? They are so clean.
Gojeep
Well Oiled
No mate, just a strip disc and then the acid.
Gojeep
Well Oiled
Been nearly 2 1/2 years since I stripped the paint off the grille parts and ran them through the citric acid bath to remove any rust before spraying with lanolin. Glad to see that it didn't rust sitting in the garage in all that time.
I am starting by adding an extra grille slot on each side by using a bigger centre section cut from another grille to do it.
You face little problems like this with the top face not matching up due to the taper.
After welding all except the turned lip on the inside, I will refold the wider part to blend in with the rest. The stake I'm forming it over is some 16mm steel from a towbar tongue and fits inside, so will hammer along its edge.
The blend worked quite well. The lip on the inside was trimmed so it all was the same length.
So this is the first part of the widening as this only added 5" and need a total of 9" to match the extra width of the cab. 2" on each side will be added between the headlight hole and the side of the grille. The slotted area of the grille matches the donor Grand Cherokee radiator core width. The extra 2" each side will have the tanks behind it. Hoping the headlights will still fit!
On the wall above on the left is the original 1948 grille and the one on the right in the 1958 grille. I have been shooting for a blend of the two styles.
Good to see someone else use the strap method of checking the door swing... I just used Jeep footman loops on the door with inner threaded plates
to resist tearing the door skin... The strap mount on the kick panel is a Jeep strap mount with the top end open... That way you can slip the
strap off to open the door all the way when desired... I also use original Jeep nylon straps, not as pretty. But cheap and easy to replace... You sure
do beautiful work....
to resist tearing the door skin... The strap mount on the kick panel is a Jeep strap mount with the top end open... That way you can slip the
strap off to open the door all the way when desired... I also use original Jeep nylon straps, not as pretty. But cheap and easy to replace... You sure
do beautiful work....
Duane, I've been using this type of door strap for a while (2 years).. I use a OEM Jeep nylon strap on mine... My windlace is showing
zero wear..
Gojeep
Well Oiled
I am going to run the radiator and the huge hydraulic fan, that is controlled by the ECU, from the donor to make sure there are no overheating problems. It only just all fits in the engine bay but would like some more 'service' room to change a belt etc. Been wondering how best to lengthen the engine bay without moving the centreline of the wheels inside the wheel arch. On my 1948 front guards, like these ones above, the front curves and goes straight across to the grille.
On the 1950 and later models it goes ahead of the grille before coming back to the same point. So my idea is to leave the outside of the guard alone and just bring the inside point forward, making a blend of the two styles.
Scribed a line 90* to the outside of the guard where the panel just starts to curve downwards.
Cut along the line and forward along the centre crease line.
Also slit the bottom flange at the bottom of the crease line as well as the panel join so it could be pulled forward.
I didn't pull it right forward until straight as wanted some curve back left as thought it looked better and was a blend of the two styles as well.
Need to extend the inner guard forward I decided I might as well remove the pressing for the shock mount that I no longer need. I started the shaping by just pushing over a T dolly that was a similar radius to the back half of the inner guard. The front half just needs a curve instead so left that alone.
With the inner guard all welded in I could fill the gaps left.
I radiused a compound curve over a steam pipe bend just using a nylon headed mallet.
Some truing up over the ripping tooth.
Bent the crease line up over the edge of the bench to match. I made the patch this big rather than try and weld in two triangular pieces as that would be more welding and coming together at a sharp point would distort badly.
I try to get it the best I can before tacking and welding into place.
So longer one at the rear and stock one at the front.
I think it is subtle enough that most would never pick it yet it gives me 40mm-1.5" more room between the back of the fan and the front of the engine.
I think the longer bonnet to match will help with the proportions of the longer/wider cab as well. The bonnet in the middle to cover the bigger V in the wider grille adds another 40mm-1.5", making the total bonnet 80mm-3.2" longer overall.
indian john
Sharpest Tool
I am going to run the radiator and the huge hydraulic fan, that is controlled by the ECU, from the donor to make sure there are no overheating problems. It only just all fits in the engine bay but would like some more 'service' room to change a belt etc. Been wondering how best to lengthen the engine bay without moving the centreline of the wheels inside the wheel arch. On my 1948 front guards, like these ones above, the front curves and goes straight across to the grille.
On the 1950 and later models it goes ahead of the grille before coming back to the same point. So my idea is to leave the outside of the guard alone and just bring the inside point forward, making a blend of the two styles.
Scribed a line 90* to the outside of the guard where the panel just starts to curve downwards.
Cut along the line and forward along the centre crease line.
Also slit the bottom flange at the bottom of the crease line as well as the panel join so it could be pulled forward.
I didn't pull it right forward until straight as wanted some curve back left as thought it looked better and was a blend of the two styles as well.
Need to extend the inner guard forward I decided I might as well remove the pressing for the shock mount that I no longer need. I started the shaping by just pushing over a T dolly that was a similar radius to the back half of the inner guard. The front half just needs a curve instead so left that alone.
With the inner guard all welded in I could fill the gaps left.
I radiused a compound curve over a steam pipe bend just using a nylon headed mallet.
Some truing up over the ripping tooth.
Bent the crease line up over the edge of the bench to match. I made the patch this big rather than try and weld in two triangular pieces as that would be more welding and coming together at a sharp point would distort badly.
I try to get it the best I can before tacking and welding into place.
So longer one at the rear and stock one at the front.
I think it is subtle enough that most would never pick it yet it gives me 40mm-1.5" more room between the back of the fan and the front of the engine.
I think the longer bonnet to match will help with the proportions of the longer/wider cab as well. The bonnet in the middle to cover the bigger V in the wider grille adds another 40mm-1.5", making the total bonnet 80mm-3.2" longer overall.
Wow, nice work!
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Gojeep
Well Oiled
Fixing up this welded up crack in the other guard. The other side was fine but they are prone to cracking here, so will cut it out rather than just smooth this old weld out.
Traced the curve and then added the lip width to it and then cut along that line before any shaping took place. You don't want to work with more material than needed when bending in a tight radius. Once the fold is hammered along the line with a high crown hammer to about 45*, I switch to this hammer I got from Peter Tommasini to finish off the folding into the inside corner.
Checking against the corner being replaced before it is cut out makes sure you keep the radius the same.
Outside edge shaped to fit and corners rounded before I then scribe around the patch to cut out the bad section underneath.
Welded into place making sure I had full penetration. If any of the join on the inside is still visible, I weld over it before any grinding has taken place. This means you are welding with the full weld depth on the outside stopping blow through.
Using a grinding disc with some pressure to get some heat into the weld to anneal it some, helps prevent cracking I have found. Take it down to razor blade thickness inside and out. Then hammer on dolly to stretch the weld back to flat. Then sand to flush before hitting it with a strip disc
This side had pitting and some small spots rusted through. This section bolts under the cowl. If the windscreen leaks at all it ends up caught inside the bottom of the cowl until one day it rusts all the way through and onto this area. No drain hole from the factory so I made sure it has one now when I remade the bottom of the cowl.
Rather than make a lot of little repairs I just replaced the whole section. Folded it first and then stretched the flange to get it to curve. Some more shaping over the anvil and stake dollies to get it to sit flat.
Traced the factory mounting holes and cut them out exactly the same. They look strangely aligned but they point along the centeline of the cab.
Put the other guard in place to check the look of the changed front curve making it the 40mm-1.5" longer. Think it works well and the first time in 7 years since the guard was last in place!
This angle makes the guard look longer than it really is, but fits in with the longer cab.
Nicolson
Sharpest Tool
That is awesome Marcus! I think you are right about that fender mod. Most people will not even notice a slight change in the body line.