Want to replace transfer case seal

I bought a seal puller and a steering wheel puller from Joe. He take venmo. Also when I tighten the nut that holds the yoke why does it have to be so tight. I would think about 75 pounds?
 
You can tighten that nut to 75 ft-lbs if you want.

I am just curious, are you an engineer? Do you know how to calculate the torque & the clamping force needed to stop any fretting caused by the vibration & torque that this yoke will see in its service life? While I am not, an engineer, I have taken a few courses in engineering. While there I tried to figure out what torque I needed for the yoke on an overhead shaft to power some steam powered machines with wide rubber belts. It turned out that the formula for this is long & it has multiple variables that need to be addressed. Even the length & diameter of the shaft itself will make a difference to the needed torque. I ended up using 250 ft-lbs & then tighten to line up a hole for the Cotter pin as suggested by my instructor.

IMHO, Using Willys specs are best. Otherwise you are trying to reinvent the wheel. Again, it is your call & your rig, so go for it! Let us know how well this works out for you, or how it does not work out.
 
Timv said:
I bought a seal puller and a steering wheel puller from Joe. He take venmo. Also when I tighten the nut that holds the yoke why does it have to be so tight. I would think about 75 pounds?
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You should tighten the nut to whatever torque you feel comfortable with. In your first post you asked what the recommended torque is, I posted it directly from the CJ5 manual. The torque values are there for a reason.
 
Phil brings up a great point. Many of us have non-automotive mechanical (machine repair, etc) backgrounds and have learned not to trust bearings or seals from “standard” automotive suppliers unless they are of certain trusted brands. Lately, due to mergers, off-shoring, greed, etc, it’s difficult to find quality parts, but you should still try. The internet has been a force for good in that area.
 
JABJEEP said:
Phil brings up a great point. Many of us have non-automotive mechanical (machine repair, etc) backgrounds and have learned not to trust bearings or seals from “standard” automotive suppliers unless they are of certain trusted brands. Lately, due to mergers, off-shoring, greed, etc, it’s difficult to find quality parts, but you should still try. The internet has been a force for good in that area.
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Part of the big problem is Crown, as they serve a need, but they also flood the aftermarket with cheap low quality parts. Seals and bearings is one place where cheap is not better, and every off-road store sells this junk. It makes no sense to spend 4 hours labor, 100 bucks in tools and fight tight nuts and then use lucky Phils off road parts (from Crown) and put in a cheap seal that will leak in the first hour. Where a 20 buck C/R or spicier seal will last 25 years...Phil
 
Thank you I got the yoke off with a 2 jaw wheel puller. I ordered a seal puller from Joe and waiting for that.
 
Timv said:
The hard part is torking the nut under the jeep to 175 pounds
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Just need to figure out how to back up the yoke and stop it from turning as you torque it. I built a plate to hold it, 6DD85942-69D2-4473-9794-70F937138F3C.jpeg works good. You can also bolt a short piece of chain to one of the holes in the yoke then connect it to something solid.
 
A padded 24" or larger pipe wrench works too. I have the factory tool but the pipe wrench is just as good with some luan plywood scraps in the jaw.
 
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