Running issues

1redcj5

1redcj5

Gear Grinder
Jan 7, 2023
11
Pittsburg,ca
First Name
Scott
Willys Model
  1. CJ
Willys Year:
  1. 1961
So I’m pretty new to Hurricane motor in my new to me 61 CJ5. It looks like the previous owner put a new carburetor on . I changed the oil and replaced the plugs and wires hoping it would run a bit better but it’s About the same from when I drove it up on the trailer, it will idle just fine but as soon as you give it gas it will either die or spudder and backfire and then die. The previous owner installed a electric fuel pump because he couldn’t find a replacement mechanical but it seems like it’s getting enough fuel. It seems to idle great with it screwed two turns out but other than that what else can I try? Here are pictures of the carb5D360ED1-65E7-493F-BC0D-9BC080B001A6.jpeg11027DBE-3ABB-4E55-ABA3-5A385FF94572.jpeg
 
I believe the gasket under the carb is not a correct part & that you probably have a vacuum leak. hook up a vacuum gauge & start diagnosing from there. Looks like some tidying of linkages & cables up is in order.
 
I am hopelessly old-school. I don't trust a Chicom copy of a poorly rendered copy of the Solex brand carburetor. That having been said, backfiring is a timing issue. It could be basic distributor timing or it may be valve adjustment, or it may be both. It may be carbon accumulation in the cylinders and on the plugs. How close to that exhaust pipe is that fuel line? If you haven't done it yet, I recommend a complete tune-up. No shortcuts. Read the book. Do it right.
 
Scoutpilot said:
I am hopelessly old-school. I don't trust a Chicom copy of a poorly rendered copy of the Solex brand carburetor. That having been said, backfiring is a timing issue. It could be basic distributor timing or it may be valve adjustment, or it may be both. It may be carbon accumulation in the cylinders and on the plugs. How close to that exhaust pipe is that fuel line? If you haven't done it yet, I recommend a complete tune-up. No shortcuts. Read the book. Do it right.
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Scoutpilot said:
1. Identify the distributor. It should be an IAD 4008.
2. Even though it is titled as tuning the l-134, the following link applies to both it and the F-head.
Tune up
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thank you i will look into changing the base gasket on the carb and do the tune up procedure in the link and look into setting the timing

what carb would you recommend I install? I was having trouble finding a non chicom replacement
 
FYI
 

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it's been hard to work on this between kids and work but I have found time here and there. So I reset the points to 20 it was at 30 , and cleaned the cap and rotor it fires right up and idles smooth but as soon as I give it gas it just falls on its face still. I was going to mess with the timing but I decided to look at the carb first since there was no fuel filter when I got it. Here is what I found
CD5A655E-8DB9-4315-BEB0-1883CD1F6525.jpeg65657F47-FA2B-494B-9E68-7C823E6B49B1.jpeg
Ever spot was filled with crud. My plan at the moment is to hopefully clean and rebuild this carb because I don’t have the funds to buy the correct carb at the moment. Is that doable? Do they make rebuild kits for this carb? Searching the Internet it seems like people don’t really like them but at the moment it’s my only option. Do people have any luck getting them to run OK with this carb?
 
I had the same situation years back, bought a 2A with a Solex , I could never get it to run smooth, switched to a a Carter, no more problems. Looks like a good start to get it cleaned up, there are a couple filter screens that need cleaning. I think I have a Solex I can send you if you need parts. Also may need to run a pressure regulator. Be sure your electric fuel pump is low pressure, maybe 2 to 4 lbs.
 
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Oh dear, new carb and that's the crap in the bottom.

Many times I've seen great carbs gummed up by old gas tanks and gas lines.

Any way you could put a scope in the tank to see what's there? or put a really good filter just before the carb?
 
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1redcj5 said:
it's been hard to work on this between kids and work but I have found time here and there. So I reset the points to 20 it was at 30 , and cleaned the cap and rotor it fires right up and idles smooth but as soon as I give it gas it just falls on its face still. I was going to mess with the timing but I decided to look at the carb first since there was no fuel filter when I got it. Here is what I found
View attachment 133572View attachment 133571
Ever spot was filled with crud. My plan at the moment is to hopefully clean and rebuild this carb because I don’t have the funds to buy the correct carb at the moment. Is that doable? Do they make rebuild kits for this carb? Searching the Internet it seems like people don’t really like them but at the moment it’s my only option. Do people have any luck getting them to run OK with this carb?
Click to expand...
I don't have the funds either, trust me, lol. But if that carb worked back in the day and people could drive the vehicle, then you should be able to drive it with cleaner gasoline then what was available back in the day. I would clean the carb, make sure that all the settings are to spec and like I said above all a filter just before the carb to keep a the she at out of it.
 
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Scoutpilot said:
Mike's Carb Parts
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Thanks!
Blue Duck said:
I had the same situation years back, bought a 2A with a Solex , I could never get it to run smooth, switched to a a Carter, no more problems. Looks like a good start to get it cleaned up, there are a couple filter screens that need cleaning. I think I have a Solex I can send you if you need parts. Also may need to run a pressure regulator. Be sure your electric fuel pump is low pressure, maybe 2 to 4 lbs.
Click to expand...
thank you! I appreciate the offer , I’ll let you now
pav1 said:
I don't have the funds either, trust me, lol. But if that carb worked back in the day and people could drive the vehicle, then you should be able to drive it with cleaner gasoline then what was available back in the day. I would clean the carb, make sure that all the settings are to spec and like I said above all a filter just before the carb to keep a the she at out of it.
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yea i hot tanked it and put in a Amazon rebuild kit, it seems like it’s better but I ran outta time to drive it around before the rain hit
 
There is a lot of info available on the internet about how to run a Solex. One big difference is the choke application. On a Carter you close the choke, get the engine running then gradually open the choke depending on your engine. If I remember right, on a Solex you actually use the choke ( not called that on a Solex) to adjust the air fuel ratio as the engine is running. I believe Volkswagen ran Solex for years with great success. The India Jeeps also run Solex, it can be done, just don’t try to adjust and run it like a Carter. As suggested above, always run a good quality fuel filter. If I’m running an electric fuel pump I run the filter before the fuel pump. Be sure the pump is lower than the level in the gas tank, most electric pumps are pushers, not suckers.
 
Thanks for all the replies, it starts right up and idles great but it still sputters and stalls as soon as I give it gas, I pulled the top of the carb off as soon as it stalled and I think float looks low
1F5BC51E-D549-4A6F-88F7-EF5A25A869EA.jpeg
So I’m thinking either I need to adjust the float or maybe mount the fuel pump lower, it’s half way up the fender
 
Best to be sure you are getting a good fuel supply before you start any adjustments to the carb. Might disconnect the fuel line at the carb and run the electric pump to make sure it is moving enough fuel. The height of the fuel pump will have an effect on its efficiency.
 
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