Flat Towing Long Distance

SparklyDirt

Gear Grinder
Jan 20, 2024
15
Olympia, Wa
First Name
Micah
Willys Model
  1. CJ
Willys Year:
  1. 1950
Hello Everyone,

I recently setup my m38a1 to be towed from the bumper as many have done before me. The brackets were already welded to the bumper from someone long before me, so I picked up a draw bar at a yard sale for a few bucks then spent an afternoon wiring in a plug so that the trailer lights from my truck work with the lights on the jeep. I also did a brake service recently, so all four wheel bearings were repacked with fresh grease.

Also, the jeep has dualmatic locking hubs on the front axle, so those can be disconnected for towing.

My 'tow rig' is a late 90's Mazda/Ford ranger (B4000) that pulls the jeep handsomely, although I think the additional weight of a trailer would put me over my towing capacity. Also, I don't have a trailer capable of long distance travel and don't have it in the budget right now to buy a trailer anyways.

I would like to take my jeep to events, like the upcoming Run for the Hills event, but was wondering what you guys experiences were flat towing long distance? For reference, the trip to Stanly ID is about 800 miles one way.
 
To flat tow a willy s with a t18 or t 20 transfer-case, put the transmission IN GEAR, shift the transfer to NUT. if you do this any other way you will burn up the transmission!!! without the input shaft turning in the transmission there will be no oil getting into the bearing between the input and output shafts after a few miles the oil is gone and the bearing turns red hot...Phil
 
Hello Everyone,

I recently setup my m38a1 to be towed from the bumper as many have done before me. The brackets were already welded to the bumper from someone long before me, so I picked up a draw bar at a yard sale for a few bucks then spent an afternoon wiring in a plug so that the trailer lights from my truck work with the lights on the jeep. I also did a brake service recently, so all four wheel bearings were repacked with fresh grease.

Also, the jeep has dualmatic locking hubs on the front axle, so those can be disconnected for towing.

My 'tow rig' is a late 90's Mazda/Ford ranger (B4000) that pulls the jeep handsomely, although I think the additional weight of a trailer would put me over my towing capacity. Also, I don't have a trailer capable of long distance travel and don't have it in the budget right now to buy a trailer anyways.

I would like to take my jeep to events, like the upcoming Run for the Hills event, but was wondering what you guys experiences were flat towing long distance? For reference, the trip to Stanly ID is about 800 miles one way.
To flat tow a willy s with a t18 or t 20 transfer-case, put the transmission IN GEAR, shift the transfer to NUT. if you do this any other way you will burn up the transmission!!! without the input shaft turning in the transmission there will be no oil getting into the bearing between the input and output shafts after a few miles the oil is gone and the bearing turns red hot...Phil
Or disconnect your rear driveshaft as many four wheelers do. I have flat towed Yellowjacket a couple hundred miles or so with little issue. But, for the RFTH, I'll trailer my CJ in case it repeats it's past performances of breaking.
 
Seriously on the drop the rear drive shaft team.

The thing about disconnecting and properly tying up the rear drive shaft is nothing in the drive train past the pinion turns, so nothing is going to wear.
So the feeling I'm getting is that as long as my wheel bearings are greased and adjusted properly, and I remove the rear drive shaft then I should be able to flat tow it as far as I would like. Does this sound about right?

I mean as long as the wheel bearings are in good shape and the drive shafts aren't turning, what can really go wrong? I've herd of people saying the rear ends get too hot, but I imagine that as long as the fluid level is correct it should be ok?
 
So the feeling I'm getting is that as long as my wheel bearings are greased and adjusted properly, and I remove the rear drive shaft then I should be able to flat tow it as far as I would like. Does this sound about right?

I mean as long as the wheel bearings are in good shape and the drive shafts aren't turning, what can really go wrong? I've herd of people saying the rear ends get too hot, but I imagine that as long as the fluid level is correct it should be ok?
And unlock your front hubs.
 
if you can also drop the windshield especially the 2A windshield does not do well at hwy speeds. Not to mention the rare possibility of you kicking up a rock with the tow rig. And if you put the windshield down then running a ratchet strap from one fender to the other over top the windshield is a good idea. You can also run one from the bottom of the grill to a seat frame.
 
To flat tow a willy s with a t18 or t 20 transfer-case, put the transmission IN GEAR, shift the transfer to NUT. if you do this any other way you will burn up the transmission!!! without the input shaft turning in the transmission there will be no oil getting into the bearing between the input and output shafts after a few miles the oil is gone and the bearing turns red hot...Phil
Absolutely essential!!
 
Nothing to do with distance, but be wary of backing up, tight turns, and worse of all a tight turn while backing up. Steering tends to go crosswise under these situations.
Ya, I found that one out the hard way already...

Had to fill in a few trenches in the gravel driveway after I tried to back it up.
 
Ya, I found that one out the hard way already...

Had to fill in a few trenches in the gravel driveway after I tried to back it up.
Go for it! DLuber flat towed his flattie from Virginia to Colorado for the flat fender tour. When he left he was headed up toward the northwest. I guess he eventually ended up back in Virginia. I once towed a scout from North Michigan to South Texas, it used to pretty common, just have to pay a little more attention to your driving!
 
I flat towed a Willys wagon from Western Oregon to Western Colorado with no issues. I used a Dodge D2500 loaded down with a couple of motorcycles & the utility boxes full of tools & other household goods. The wagon was also loaded. The Cummins never noticed the weight, but the brakes did. The wagon did not try to push the Dodge around.

With your light truck, be very careful to leave plenty of stopping distance from the vehicle in front of you. The Willys might try to push that light truck around, so go slow & easy. IMHO, the Ranger is a bit under powered & light for this job. OTOH, I do live in the mountains & drive up & down steep, long hills. In Kansas you might be okay. In the coast range? IDK.
 
FWIW, I flat tow my wagon with a 4x4 Sprinter rated for (only)5k lbs. Works great and has opened up more horizons for my Wagon (trust me, "they're more fun when they run"! {yes Rodney, you can quote me on that too} ) So much more comfortable when doing long trips, plus my cabin on wheels is a tad bit cushier than the back of the ol' Jeep!

The biggest issue I've found is to remember to leave the driver's door UN-locked; absolutely essential when you have to jump in to turn the steering wheel when the wheels won't do it themselves in tight turns!!! Someone told me a longer tow bar would help that problem; any comments regarding this?
 
So the feeling I'm getting is that as long as my wheel bearings are greased and adjusted properly, and I remove the rear drive shaft then I should be able to flat tow it as far as I would like. Does this sound about right?

I mean as long as the wheel bearings are in good shape and the drive shafts aren't turning, what can really go wrong? I've herd of people saying the rear ends get too hot, but I imagine that as long as the fluid level is correct it should be ok?
Yep. That said, my 3B made many a 600 to 800 mile trip flat towed WITHOUT removing the rear driveshaft. As per Phil, transmission in gear, transfercase in neutral. I don't remember tight turns being a problem with a standard tow bar. Backing up is an entirely different equation.
 
Yep. That said, my 3B made many a 600 to 800 mile trip flat towed WITHOUT removing the rear driveshaft. As per Phil, transmission in gear, transfercase in neutral. I don't remember tight turns being a problem with a standard tow bar. Backing up is an entirely different equation.
That's encouraging and exactly what I wanted to hear; that it was possible and had been done before without issue.
The biggest issue I've found is to remember to leave the driver's door UN-locked;
I don't think I'll have to worry about my doors being unlocked. Hard to lock doors you don't have lol
 
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