Was needing some advice from you experts...48 pickup... I'm putting All new Glass and seals in my doors and it's pretty hard to roll up my window... checked the glass thickness and it's the same as the old ones..even put dry lube in the fuzzy tracks.. adjusted everything 5 times.. I'm out of ideas.. thought maybe someone else has a tip for me... hope fully I won't have to live with this... thanks guys
Door glass adjustment
- Thread starter Mel
- Start date
Hi Cyril
I had to play a whole day to get mine adjusted.
They move easy enough but do not glide like I would like
them to
I had to play a whole day to get mine adjusted.
They move easy enough but do not glide like I would like
them to
Thanks... figured I'd have to settle for less than I'd like... but don't like it
Hoffy1039
Precision Fit
Check your " tracks" - the rails your glass panels slide up and down. They can be out of alignment, loosen slightly, run glass up and down, tighten back up ( the front rail has the lower securing rod - with adjustment possible. ). Or the channels could have been " crimped" in spots, causing sticking points, or the screws holding the fuzzy tracking might not be set completely, again the sticky points...just some thoughts and I'm getting my doors for ready for glass insert.
- Oct 5, 2020
- 754
- First Name
- Fred
- Willys Model
- Wagon
- Pickup
- Jeepster
- CJ
- Willys Year:
- 1946
- 1948
- 1950
- 1955
- 1961
You don’t mention any form of cleaning or lubrication of the lifting regulator.
I removed all tracks & regulator. Soaked submerged in parts solvent tank. Cleaned out grit dirt old grease, blew off with compressed air, and repeat ‘till clean. Lubricated all pivot points and coil counter spring with good lithium spray in grease. Mechanism now moved freely. Fuzzy channels don’t need lube.
Reinstalled glass, channels, regulator and all fasteners in place but loose. Snugged up all fasteners carefully adjusting position of tracks/channels, working the window up/down finding the sweet spot then final tighten. Done.
I removed all tracks & regulator. Soaked submerged in parts solvent tank. Cleaned out grit dirt old grease, blew off with compressed air, and repeat ‘till clean. Lubricated all pivot points and coil counter spring with good lithium spray in grease. Mechanism now moved freely. Fuzzy channels don’t need lube.
Reinstalled glass, channels, regulator and all fasteners in place but loose. Snugged up all fasteners carefully adjusting position of tracks/channels, working the window up/down finding the sweet spot then final tighten. Done.
Thanks I guess I'll check all those again for the 5th time.. lol
Yeah I cleaned and lubed every thing in the door...checked all the tracks... I'm thinking the thickness of the paint closed the tracks a little... very simple mechanism I'll screw with it till I get it... thanks for the reply
The generic replacement channels are now mostly designed to work with either 3/16” or 1/4” glass.
The original side window laminated glass was 3/16”.
1/4” glass is going to run tight in these “universal” channels.
If you’ve got a cutoff piece of the channel you put in still, roll the window down a little and slip it on the exposed edge of the glass and see how tight it grips.
If that’s what’s going on, check with Restoration Specialties. Those folks are good, and might be able to assist with a better track.
The original side window laminated glass was 3/16”.
1/4” glass is going to run tight in these “universal” channels.
If you’ve got a cutoff piece of the channel you put in still, roll the window down a little and slip it on the exposed edge of the glass and see how tight it grips.
If that’s what’s going on, check with Restoration Specialties. Those folks are good, and might be able to assist with a better track.
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Alternatively, the glass might be cut a bit too wide and bottoming in the side vertical tracks.
A good glass shop will have a vertical wet belt sander that could be used to grind a bit off.
Experienced glazers can do this in the field using a conventional belt sander with wet/dry paper and a squirt bottle of water, but this isn’t a skill most folks should try developing on a costly piece of laminated glass.
It’s easy to get impatient and crack the glass due to heat buildup.
A good glass shop will have a vertical wet belt sander that could be used to grind a bit off.
Experienced glazers can do this in the field using a conventional belt sander with wet/dry paper and a squirt bottle of water, but this isn’t a skill most folks should try developing on a costly piece of laminated glass.
It’s easy to get impatient and crack the glass due to heat buildup.
RV Aych
Precision Fit
My original 62 PU door glass is laminated. My new door glass is safety glass [not laminated]. My understanding is safety glass is standard for side glass in modern vehicles, with laminated glass used in windshields. I could be wrong.
My original laminated door glass is .234 in. thick. The new safety glass is .224 in. thick.
My new door glass channels are not quite as deep as the originals and are .374 in. inside width at the narrowed top of the channel. Just for info [and to improve my post stats]
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Petie Gear grinder
Bigger Hammer
How does the glass slide in the tracks without being hooked up to the regulator? If it moves the tracks easily without the regulator I would try adjusting the 3 regulator screws.My original 62 PU door glass is laminated. My new door glass is safety glass [not laminated]. My understanding is safety glass is standard for side glass in modern vehicles with laminated glass used in windshields. I could be wrong.
My original laminated door glass is .234 in. thick. The new safety glass is .224 in. thick.
My new door glass channels are not quite as deep as the originals and are .374 in. inside width at the narrowed top of the channel. Just for info [and to improve my post stats]