Car Hauler Trailer Advice? Rent or Buy? What to Look for When Buying?

I was shopping on etrailer. Thinking of taking the opportunity to add reverse lights. They're built in to the regular stop/turn/tail now. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/STL211RB.html But $30 each!?
Yeah always nice to have some extra lights backing up or loading up.

These look more common, and are half price, they all probably work really well.

Amazon has them, I tried to.find truck stop lights on the internet and it's a bust, usually these are just on the rack in the parts area hard to price them out that way.

I'm sure a TA is more then a Pilot move then a Love's kind of deal, just how it works sometimes.

I could easily swap these in, but missing a wire for sure.

Building a harness might be more cost effective hard to say, have not bought wire lately.

Wireandcableyourway.com is a good place at times. Production has been slow at the shop so I have not checked pricing. They have all the right wire usually hard to beat prices for smaller buyers.

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Thanks for the tip! Until I started digging into this I had no idea that there was actually special trailer cable available with different size conductors in the same sheathing. Makes perfect sense, I just never gave it a thought before.

  • Wire gauges:
    • 14 Gauge - Red, brown, green, and yellow
    • 12 Gauge - Blue
    • 10 Gauge - White and black
But of course it’s about $50 for that little 8’ piece of what’s essentially SO cord.
 
Thanks for the tip! Until I started digging into this I had no idea that there was actually special trailer cable available with different size conductors in the same sheathing. Makes perfect sense, I just never gave it a thought before.

  • Wire gauges:
    • 14 Gauge - Red, brown, green, and yellow
    • 12 Gauge - Blue
    • 10 Gauge - White and black
But of course it’s about $50 for that little 8’ piece of what’s essentially SO cord.
There are also different types of pins on the molded connector, there are flats and some V shaped ones, the flats being preferred.

Then there are also different width flat pins across some MFG to further stir the pot.

The V spring type one type is not recommended by Ram.

I was actually not thinking about that main harness from the connector to the breakaway battery box. I think that's what the 8' is all about for that part. I would probably not DIY that set up. The SO cord or what ever would be preferred there.

And if the 7pin set up is a less expensive part there is a reason, either the wire is cheap or the 7pin is suspect.
 

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Yeesh! More complications! The more we wonder off into the weeds, the more we're making the point about owning vs. renting vs. flat-towing! I guess if you use a trailer often, this is the price of that convenience. Although I've had to repair rental trailers too in order to stay legal and on schedule..... I flat-towed for over 20 years with a couple of mishaps that, luckily, were just wake-up calls, minor damage and no injuries. So far the trailer with brakes has been the safest way to go along with the security of knowing that if I do a really good job of breaking the jeep all I need to do is get it somewhere where it can be winched onto the trailer.
 
Thanks Joe, but I’ve got the inserted grommet style and may as well stick with it because all the holes are there. I found the 7-wire cable sold by the foot on eBay for a much more reasonable price and am now looking at options for redoing everything similar to commercial wiring with pvc conduit and boxes. In fact, it looks like I might even be able to enclose it all right up to the back of some of the lights with pvc junction box extensions and covers….maybe. Still in the planning stages. If it ain’t the mice, it’s the corrosion.


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Thanks Joe, but I’ve got the inserted grommet style and may as well stick with it because all the holes are there. I found the 7-wire cable sold by the foot on eBay for a much more reasonable price and am now looking at options for redoing everything similar to commercial wiring with pvc conduit and boxes. In fact, it looks like I might even be able to enclose it all right up to the back of some of the lights with pvc junction box extensions and covers….maybe. Still in the planning stages. If it ain’t the mice, it’s the corrosion.


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Time for a cat or two.

Two cats adopted my property and I feed them. No more mice.
 
I rented U-haul trailers to drag my wagon to Moab for about 10 years in a row, along with 2-3 various other trips each year. I agree that they are easy to use and tow. They are heavy though so if weight is a concern with your tow vehicle, maybe not the best option.
The problem I had again and again with renting the u-haul trailers over the years was availability. I live in a small town that isn't on the way to anywhere else. The U-haul rental place comes and goes, changing hands and location around town. They don't always have a trailer on hand, and can't guarantee that they will have one even if reserved way in advance. The next nearest rental place is 50 miles away, and when I've had to go that route it adds a ridiculous amount of time and miles to the round trip. I've even cancelled trips because I couldn't get a trailer.
I bought a trailer a couple of years ago, and am happy I did. With all of the rental fees I've paid over the years, I could have bought two of these trailers... It's a simple wood deck trailer with pull out ramps, weighs 1900 lbs, and will work for either my wagon or flatfender. I paid $3k for it new, all of the used ones I could find were the same price in well used condition. It tows easy, and even behind my Gladiator I can comfortably cruise with the wagon in tow at 70+ on the freeway all day long.
The only thing I'd do different if I had the choice, would be to get the all aluminum version to save weight. They cost about 3x though, so steel/wood will do for me.
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Pete...If you tie down this way, are you sliding the straps between axle and brake line so you don’t smash the brake line? I haven’t trailered my wagon yet and am just looking for the best way to do it...
 
Pete...If you tie down this way, are you sliding the straps between axle and brake line so you don’t smash the brake line? I haven’t trailered my wagon yet and am just looking for the best way to do it...
I can answer from experience.
Whichever quality company you buy tie downs from should also sell axle straps. They are cushioned lengths of strap material with D rings on both ends. You will not crush your brake lines with an axle strap.

Personally I'm getting too old and stiff (not referring to the good stiff) to crawl under vehicles to strap them down. A set of tire straps are in my future.
 
I can answer from experience.
Whichever quality company you buy tie downs from should also sell axle straps. They are cushioned lengths of strap material with D rings on both ends. You will not crush your brake lines with an axle strap.

Personally I'm getting too old and stiff (not referring to the good stiff) to crawl under vehicles to strap them down. A set of tire straps are in my future.
Thank Joe! I was looking at the tire straps as another option, might lean that way as they do look much easier to put on....
 
The '48 actually had the rear brake line raised up, which was cool.

Not sure you can see it in here.

This went 8hr across some decent bumpy roads and not a single click on the straps the entire ride.

But exactly how Stakebed said, they are padded axle straps. These are the if you have to ask price from Macs, but I do carry a second set of the not so great from my local trailer place, because you never know.

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Then here is the '63 this went I think 1,100 miles and maybe less then 5 clicks the whole way from MO to NJ, they really work well.

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Front Axle, can see the padding on these straps atleast.
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The '48 actually had the rear brake line raised up, which was cool.

Not sure you can see it in here.

This went 8hr across some decent bumpy roads and not a single click on the straps the entire ride.

But exactly how Stakebed said, they are padded axle straps. These are the if you have to ask price from Macs, but I do carry a second set of the not so great from my local trailer place, because you never know.

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Then here is the '63 this went I think 1,100 miles and maybe less then 5 clicks the whole way from MO to NJ, they really work well.

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Front Axle, can see the padding on these straps atleast.
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Yeah I always have to retighten after descending my bumpy dirt road.
 
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Thank Joe! I was looking at the tire straps as another option, might lean that way as they do look much easier to put on....
If you get a chance, check out the wheel basket straps and ratchets on a u-Haul car hauler. It's easy to load or off-load from one of those in a matter of a couple of minutes. It would be great to replicate that system somewhow.
 
Yeah I always have to retighten after descending my bumper dirt road.
Yeah I check them on departure about 8 times, then I usually pick a spot before I get on any sort of highway.

With the '48 the highway was off this really small 2 lane road, was able to pull over before I got on, but was not ideal.

Yep you can't check them enough at times.

I probably then go like 100 miles and check them at either a swing in rest stop or a quick fuel break. If your in a super rush to do all this stuff, probably doing it for the wrong reasons. Have to take it slower at times.

With that huge deck over and having a gasser, can't even fit in most fuel stations. With my Diesel, you have to get into the big fuel lanes which is a pain at times.
 
Lots of choices at zoro.com if you search for strap or sling. Can't answer how the pricing is, but lots of choices and If you sign up and wait, they will send you 15% and 20% off coupons, enough I never don't have one.
 
Pete...If you tie down this way, are you sliding the straps between axle and brake line so you don’t smash the brake line? I haven’t trailered my wagon yet and am just looking for the best way to do it...
Definitely not strapping over the brake lines. On my CJ and wagon I use axle straps, that slip between the axle tube and brake lines to that they don't get smashed.
Pete
 
There are times when it would be nice to put the wagon on a trailer and avoid punishing it (and us) on long stretches of high-speed roads for which it wasn’t designed.

The thing is, we have a good towing rig — a ‘96 F250 7.3 Power Stroke diesel set up for either a gooseneck or receiver hitch. And we have room to park a car hauler outdoors alongside the horse trailers.

I’ve rented a u-Haul car hauler on a couple of occasions and consider it the gold standard in car hauler design. It’s exceptionally easy to tow, load and offload. I probably couldn’t find one just like that it wouldn’t want to pay the price if I did, but that would be ideal. A rental runs about $75 per day with all the fees, taxes, etc.

If I had a car hauler, I’d probably use it 4-6 times a year for trips 150-250 miles (one way), with occasional much longer trips, potentially, like to Moab or Death Valley, etc.

So please share any advice, tips, pointers or precautions. Things like:

Rent or buy?
New vs. used?
Features to look for?
Features to avoid?
Multi-use considerations?
Good places to look for good new or used trailers?

Thank you

I'm interested to hear what you finally did.

I've been renting the U haul auto transport since last fall. One really bad experience, plus several that exposed the lack of maintenance on their units. And to top it off, I couldn't get one for this weekend. I held off buying as I wasn't convinced by the economics of buying over rental. But there's more than economics. Its for my wheeling truck primarily but I see the benefit of being able to move a family car from time to time.

Also trying to decide whether to get a 2ft dovetail v a straight deck. Will a typical sedan be able to get on a straight deck? Limiting myself to 16ft or 18ft if possible as access to my driveway is tricky. My street is barely wide enough to allow two cars to go by. Tow vehicle F150.
 
I'm interested to hear what you finally did.

I've been renting the U haul auto transport since last fall. One really bad experience, plus several that exposed the lack of maintenance on their units. And to top it off, I couldn't get one for this weekend. I held off buying as I wasn't convinced by the economics of buying over rental. But there's more than economics. Its for my wheeling truck primarily but I see the benefit of being able to move a family car from time to time.

Also trying to decide whether to get a 2ft dovetail v a straight deck. Will a typical sedan be able to get on a straight deck? Limiting myself to 16ft or 18ft if possible as access to my driveway is tricky. My street is barely wide enough to allow two cars to go by. Tow vehicle F150.
I set up my wagon for flat towing and opted not to get a trailer for now. It’s much nicer without the extra weight of the trailer, and the height of the towed vehicle is lower as well, reducing wind resistance.

My towing situations almost always involve crossing the Sierra Nevada, so the extra weight matters on the steep climbs at high elevation. If I lived in the Midwest where towing was mostly in flat country, the idea of a trailer might be more attractive, to reduce wear and tear on the Willys.

If I were to get a trailer, I’d get one with lowered axles, a z-tongue, and a flat deck the lowest height feasible. And maybe make the left fender removable for when a normal car is hauled, to allow opening the door.
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And to top it off, I couldn't get one for this weekend.
That happened to me when I bought my Willys last month and needed to trailer it home from Coos Bay, Oregon. I booked it weeks in advance for a one way rental. I went to Portland first to visit family and the day before I was to pick up the trailer I called to check. "Oh sorry, we don't have one available"! What?! But the regional manager who I was told to call, stuck with me until she found one about half way between Portland and Coos Bay. "I found ONE." she says. I get to the place and there are 5 in their lot! And as I'm driving through Coos Bay, past the U Haul place I see 2 of them on their lot. I don't think they like renting to one-wayers.
 
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