An Oil Bath for the Carburetor Every Day

Lookout Ranch

Well Oiled
All-Star
May 9, 2015
10,026
Sierra Foothills
First Name
Kurt
Willys Model
  1. Wagon
Willys Year:
  1. 1957
My '57 wagon has a stock oil bath air filter on top of a YF carburetor on a 226 engine. I like having the stock air filter, but it literally bathes the outside of the carburetor and intake manifold in a perpetual light film of oil, and I'm wondering how to make it stop.

The canister is in good condition (no holes) and supplied with the correct amount of the proper oil. Note that the oil all over the carburetor even occurs when the air filter is a little under-filled. It's not "spilling," it seems to be a side-effect of the vacuum action that makes this type of filter work.

Has this happened to anyone else?

Is there a simple fix?

For example, is there supposed to be a gasket or seal between the carburetor and the air filter canister? The fit of the canister on the carburetor is not really loose but not tight, either. The collar doesn't cinch down quite far enough to get good and tight, but it probably would with a seal of some sort.

Suggestions? Thanks
 
Is this one of the filters that sits directly on top of the carb? or one that has a hose that connects from the carb to the filter with the filter mounted somewhere off the engine (like an inner fender)?
 
Are the old oil bath filters really any better than the 'modern' paper ones? Once mines is restored, if it presents an oil mess on the engine, it won't be there long.
 
They're good, in my opinion, but I don't think they're superior to a well maintained modern paper filter.

I do have a theory, however, that engines that sit for long periods of time (years or decades even) are better protected from the elements by an oil bath filter. My wagon sat outside for the better part of 15 years without any harm to the engine whatsoever, even as the gearbox got all rusty inside above the oil line.
 
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You say the filter doesn’t fit the carb quite right. It may be vibrating to the point where the oil is splashing around inside and air suspended droplets are being sucked out. It doesn’t take much oil at all for a carb to look like it has taken a bath.
 
Check out the "oil bath air cleaner modification" on the second page of the Tech Article section. You can retain the original look and never have to deal with the oily mess again. If you do it properly, no one will ever know it was modified except you.
 
And here it is. Best thing you can do in my opinion. Mine is actually sitting on a Weber two barrel. Napa number 6070. When you pull all that nasty dirty oily horse hair stuff out you will wonder how you're engine ever breathed. Good luck!
 

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You say the filter doesn’t fit the carb quite right. It may be vibrating to the point where the oil is splashing around inside and air suspended droplets are being sucked out. It doesn’t take much oil at all for a carb to look like it has taken a bath.
My filter canister on mine was loose also. I put this clamp on and now does nut budge. Although it takes a 3/8 deep well and extension to get to it. You can see the notch in the bottom making it much easier to get the socket on. I had thought the notch was for the throttle cable. I talked to some old timers and they said it was typical in the old days to fasten the filter to the carb like this.:cheers:
 

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And here it is. Best thing you can do in my opinion. Mine is actually sitting on a Weber two barrel. Napa number 6070. When you pull all that nasty dirty oily horse hair stuff out you will wonder how you're engine ever breathed. Good luck!
Frank, I cut the bottom off a coffee can to fit over the throat of the carb. I drilled a hole in the center for the wing nut. It fits perfect on the 6070 filter. I live on a long gravel lane so I wanted that throat covered up. The flat washer works as a stiffener, I had planned to put on a larger one, some day, LOL.
,:cheers:
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Thanks for all the ideas guys! I like that clamp, Mike.

You can see how the collar screw on mine is jury-rigged and tightened all the way, sort of. I'm going to try to save the collar because it's spot welded opposite the screw. I'm afraid breaking the weld will hurt the canister.

Ill rig up a better screw for the clamp that won't distort it so much.

i also spread a thin coat of Ultra Black RTV sealant around the inside of the collar where it mates with the carburetor. I'll let it dry before putting it on the carburetor. I think that will help form a nice snug seal.
 

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Carter, if you want any or all of this base piece let me know. I will box it up and send it you're way.
 

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Thanks, Frank, I appreciate it. Let me see how my fix holds up. If I run into a problem, I'll take up up on the kind offer. My base and collar are sound, I think, just in need of a little TLC.

I actually like the oil bath filtration. It seems to catch an amazing amount of stuff that collects in the bottom of the canister, while my "horsehair" mass is quite clean. And, I guess I just like keeping the old-school technology alive for my grandkids to wonder at.
 
Mike, I like that idea. Do you use the origional top also?
Big Dog, Yes I did, although I did trim the side down to two inches so she still looks stock. One of these days I will paint and put the new sticker back on, got the sticker a year ago! While I have the rattle can out maybe I'll paint the coffee can lid. Ha-Ha.:cheers:
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The air filter is back on the carburetor. The fit was nice and snug with the RTV, and after tightening the collar it is very tight and secure in a way it never was before. Now, time will tell if the oil leakage is fixed.

Thanks again, everyone, for the feedback.
 
The air filter is back on the carburetor. The fit was nice and snug with the RTV, and after tightening the collar it is very tight and secure in a way it never was before. Now, time will tell if the oil leakage is fixed.

Thanks again, everyone, for the feedback.
Best of luck!
 
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