Timv
Bigger Hammer
I am going to replace the front drive shaft yoke seale on a 1946 transfer case and what is the best way to get the yoke off after i remove the nut. Also what should I tighten the nut torque to thanks.
Want to replace transfer case seal
- Thread starter Timv
- Start date
- Sep 20, 2017
- 3,994
- First Name
- Jeff
- Willys Model
- Wagon
- Pickup
- CJ
- Willys Year:
- 1955
- 1958
- 1962
Usually a simple two-jaw puller will get those off pretty easily. A '46 might have a cotter pin, so to make your job easier check to be sure it's removed before you try to unscrew the nut. For some reason the manual didn't mention torque for those back then, but I think 150 lb-ft. is the setting for later units that use the same parts. I just looked in the manual and couldn't find a torque setting; https://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/TechData/WillysShopManual-CJ.pdf
As JabJeep says you need a puller to remove the yoke once the nut is off. You can also make a puller from a piece of plate. The nut may be extremely tight, the last one I took off I had to use a 3/4 impact. The CJ5 manual shows the torque at 225 to 250 Ft lb. I usually take it to about 175 then start looking fir the cotter key to line up.
Timv
Bigger Hammer
I hope I can change the seal without removing the transfer case.
It’s really pretty simple if you rig up for it. You need something to back up ( some folks use a pipe wrench) the yoke when you remove the nut, then a puller, after the nut is off the yoke usually pulls
real easy, be careful when you pull out the old seal so you don’t damage the seal surface, it’s really soft metal.
- Sep 20, 2017
- 3,994
- First Name
- Jeff
- Willys Model
- Wagon
- Pickup
- CJ
- Willys Year:
- 1955
- 1958
- 1962
Getting the old one out without damaging the bore is the challenge. They can be stuck in there pretty good because rust and old sealant seem to be good retainers! You may also have a groove worn in the yoke. A speedie-sleeve or new yoke is the only effective cure for that, but on rare occasions you can space the yoke out about 0.030" or so with a small washer with a big hole to give the seal a new surface to ride on.
Here’s a couple more pictures they might help clarify. When you reassembly might want a little sealant between the seal and the housing and on the splines inside the yoke. Also a picture of the special tools, I don’t have any of them but they did exist. 
Timv
Bigger Hammer
I probably should drain the transfer case first?
- Sep 20, 2017
- 3,994
- First Name
- Jeff
- Willys Model
- Wagon
- Pickup
- CJ
- Willys Year:
- 1955
- 1958
- 1962
It wouldn't hurt, but the oil level isn't much higher, if it even is at all, than the seal bore inner lip/stop. When's the last time it was changed? Might be a good idea anyway. and the job will be a little less messy. Re-fill with 90 wt that's safe for brass (GL-4) as the thrust washers and bushing contain brass.
If you don’t want to drain the transfer case just Jack up the front of the vehicle, probable need it raised to work on it anyway. Use good Jack stands or put ramps/ wood sills directly under the front tires.
Timv
Bigger Hammer
I don't think there was much in it because I put a quart of 90 weight in last week.
Oldpappy
Sharpest Tool
I have only removed the yokes while the transfer case was still in the Jeep a couple of times. I was able to use the slide hammer I use for pulling axles on the rear yokes, but didn't have room for that on the fronts and didn't have a puller that would work at the time. I was able to remove them by installing the U bolts for the universal, placing a short piece of pipe into the U bolt and tapping one side then the other with a hammer.
Timv
Bigger Hammer
Thanks I will try that but the hard part will be removing the seal. Those hook seal pullers don't work well so I have to try and colapse the seal and use a screw driver to remove it.
WA7OPY
Well Oiled
A little hint buy the best spring loaded seal you can find at a bearings house not from aftermarket parts stores...Phil
Oldpappy
Sharpest Tool
Joe Deyoung over on the CJ2A page makes a great seal puller similar to the one in the picture above, but I too have had to remove them the way you describe. They can be stubborn.
- Sep 20, 2017
- 3,994
- First Name
- Jeff
- Willys Model
- Wagon
- Pickup
- CJ
- Willys Year:
- 1955
- 1958
- 1962
I forgot all about Joes tools.
www.thecj2apage.com
www.thecj2apage.com
Joe DeYoung's Tools and Parts Listing
I've had a request to list my restoration tools andparts that I make for Willys Jeep service...
Destroyed Seal Bores
Working on a customers transfer case that leaked horribly and this is what I found on the front and...
Timv
Bigger Hammer
I order a seal from Ron's jeep parts.
Joe DeYoung's Tools and Parts Listing
I've had a request to list my restoration tools andparts that I make for Willys Jeep service...
| A-958-T | Puller, Output Seal, M18/20 Transfer Case (works for Dana 23, 25, 41, 44 differential pinion seal as well) | $65 |
That puller is just excellent and there is no danger of screwing up the seal seat. Not cheap but worth EVERY cent.
I also use doubled SKF 15655 seals. You have to reduce the felt thickness by half but this works great. I use wheel bearing grease on the seal surfaces when installing.
I thought I had a photo of Joe's puller but apparently do not. It has a tapered thread that screws in between the shaft and the seal and just backs them right out. Usually a 5 minute job or less. It is made from hardened 4140.
I thought I had a photo of Joe's puller but apparently do not. It has a tapered thread that screws in between the shaft and the seal and just backs them right out. Usually a 5 minute job or less. It is made from hardened 4140.
Timv
Bigger Hammer
okay how do I pay for it Paypal?Joe DeYoung's Tools and Parts Listing
I've had a request to list my restoration tools andparts that I make for Willys Jeep service...www.thecj2apage.com
A-958-T Puller, Output Seal, M18/20 Transfer Case (works for Dana 23, 25, 41, 44 differential pinion seal as well) $65
That puller is just excellent and there is no danger of screwing up the seal seat. Not cheap but worth EVERY cent.