What fluids do you use?

Imposter71

Sharpest Tool
Sep 23, 2009
235
NC Coast
First Name
Tom
Willys Model
  1. Wagon
Willys Year:
  1. 1963
I don't have any service manual of any kind on my wagon. I want to go through and change all the fluids. Drivetrain appears to be stock. I was wondering what the consensus is on the best fluid to use for differentials and xfer case ( Brand and weights). Plan on changing them now and then ( hopefully) running it for a few weeks or so and doing it again to be safe. At this point probably anything is better than what is in there now.

thanks.
 
That's a good question. I've been running normal gear lube but have been thinking of trying something else. Heres what Novak has to say about transmission/transfer case lube..

"When filling your T90 with gear oil, we recommend that you select a conventional mineral oil or a para-synthetic in lieu of a full synthetic oil. Properly assembled manual gearboxes do not have the thermal strains seen by combustion engines or hypoid gears. Synthetic fluid in these gearboxes, while not harmful, is probably an economic waste.
Hypoid gear oil is sulphurized higher than transmission oil and can be mildly corrosive to the non-ferrous alloys used for synchros, bushings and thrust washers in these transmissions.
An 80W-90, API-GL5 or MT-1 rated fluid is very good. Some claim faster shifts from using a 50W engine oil in their transmission and we do not consider this to be contraindicated."

As far as engine oil goes I've been running Shell Rotella synthetic due to the flat tappets in the 226 engine and the ZDDP issue (or lack of in new oils) but there are differing thoughs on this.

Brad
 
Didn't get many responses on this originally so I thought I would bring it up again now that we have more members and see what happens. I have never tackled any major builds/overhauls - but since we have so many knowledgeable folks on here and some that build, use, then rebuild their own rigs/parts, I am curious to see what you use and recommend, and why.....

watcha think :?:
 
I've been using Shell Spirax 80-90 gear oil in the trans and differentials, Rotella T 15/40 dino in my L226 engine, working just fine.
 
I used BG Engine Pre-lube when re-assembling my engine. I have intentions of running 10W30 Conventional motor oil in my Ford Engine. The special extra expensive tranny fluid from Dodge for NV4500 5 speed, then just a standard 80W90 for my diffs and tcase. Tcase is a Jeep Dana 300.

Will be using an MOA (Motor Oil Additive) from BG with my oil in the engine. Plus I know this thing is gonna get all the fluids changed out after 400-500 miles on the road. It had been sitting for some time so after things get moving around and freed up it will be better.
 
FWIW: I strongly recommend any premium oil such as Q State, Pennzoil, Shell, Mobil etc.

The new Shell and Pennzoil formulations are notable.

I do not recommend other oils especially the 'boo-teak' oils and third world stuff. Its not that the boo-teak are not good oils, in fact they are, but they are specifically formulated for unique uses and the added money spend on them is not needed.

It might be noted that there are only a handful of oil refiners in the US. The majors such as mentioned above also custom blend, most often by taking their own oil and adding specfic additives in varying qty for the requesters market focus. Take Away: Generally don't waste your money, just buy the national brands and you will be ahead of the ball game in both quality and $$.

Synthetics: Unless you plan on extending your oil change intervals to at least to every 5k miles (for engines) then nothing is to be gained. Best formulation for older rigs is a syn-blend or just regular oil. Syns work well under high thermal stress of todays modern engines and provide extended change intervals in engines and transmissions.
 
Anything but diesel-rated oil with the proper zinc additives is bad news for older motors, especially old flatheads. I run Penzoil Long-Life 15W-40 diesel rated oil in mine, but Shell Rotella is another great brand. I don't believe in synthetics. I've always run standard Penzoil dino oil and have run every daily driver of mine (even newer OHC motors) past 200k miles and had the internals look just as new. The key is to change your oil at the proper intervals. A buddy of mine that builds drag cars for Toyota turned me on to diesel oil and I've run that in my CJ with the AMC I6 and my wagon with the flathead I6 ever since.

For older transmissions, transfer cases, and axles, I run standard 90W. I used to run the cheap Coastal stuff in my CJ because I run it through the Withlacoochee swamps all the time. I have started running Lucas 140W in my front and rear axles on the CJ because I run full auto lockers and it helps to quiet them down, and doesn't heat up too bad wound up on the interstate. I like to use the more expensive Lucas 90W in my transmissions because it really helps to cut down on operation noise.

Also, I've never run Royal Purple or any other brands like that in anything, because I just don't trust them. They say that they are compliant with several standards and have outrageous claims, but the fact is they are not officially certified like other oils are. That's the bottom line, and I'm not going to risk it personally.
 
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