wagon cargo floor replacement idea's

409mc

Knuckle Buster
Feb 1, 2010
4
Willys Model
Willys Year:
Hi! Guys I have a 51 wagon that needs the entire cargo floor replaced but have yet to see any reproduction panels for this. Has anybody replaced theres before and what did you guys use I would like for it to remain a corrugated floor if at all possible. :cheers:
 
I think the bed floor from a short bed domestic pickup would work, obviously not a drop in fit, and I haven't tried it yet, but I bet it would be close. When you buy the new bed it comes in two pieces split down the middle. I still need to find a mid 80's Chevy short box and measure it.
 
That what i was thinking as well but I'am going to measure a long wheel base to see if it would be long enough to cover the panel under the seat as well. The only places that my floor is completely rusted through is at the tailgate and both sides of the back where the gas filler neck is in the floor however the floor is pitted real bad and is weak in front of the wheel housings. Since you replaced both quarter panels would it be best to replace the floor first before the quarters i have not had a chance to see how the floor and bracing is tied to the body.
 
I think that the bed floor should be replaced first as it ties into the quarter panels with a series of welds. Your rear crossmember underneath your tailgate is probably in poor condition also. I will be cutting the bed floor out as soon as I finish bracing the body, then replace, then finish putting the new quarters on. If your not replacing your quarters.....well thats totally different.
 
I recommend a floor replacement first. The floor is the most crucial structual member.
I have seen a wagon were the owner built a tube frame then installed a flat sheet of metal on top from a local metal distributor. He then undercoated the underneath then installed sound barrier material then a second sheet metal onto the floor bottom up to enclose the floor. He stated he did this to produce a flat floor to camp in. Carpeting provided an additional noise barrior. He also removed the double wheel wells and installed some larger single wells from a truck bed. It did look good! He also covered the lower tailgate "for a more confortable tailgate party". Its great to have options. I have in the past taken some metal to a fabricator and had ribbing and some angle bends when I buit a small trailer- worked well and was resonably price.
Sections of other truck beds as suggested by the other members.
I am in the process of a complete off frame. My floor is good but both side panels needed replaced. I do not know your experience but, A point of caution is that when I began to remove the rusted out side panels they had a tendency to want to bow out at different places when cut loose from the floor. There are some structural pressures there.I recommend that you place a temp tube across from side to side and fasten securely to the side panels (tack weld best). A tube above the floor and a tube underneath on the bottom of the panels. (Since my floor was good the panels lined up but I had to pull them in somewhat to make all contact points match up for welds.) A placement tube criss crossing from the roof to the opposite panel bottoms. This will keep your side panels in proper placement. Good measurements in case it should pull apart and a cardboard stencil of the entire floor with location marks on key areas. A tube placed right above the wheel wells will secure that area. So on and so on. Building a small tube frameing through out may seem a little overdone but, I have seen from other vehicles that when you view down the sides of the finished paint there is clearly disformaty between the two sides.Also the weight change slightly due to improper alinement will cause a dog legging feel.. Overkill is better then the latter.
 
The '09 gm trucks use a double wall bed floor in the box. No bolt holes either.
I am considering using one for my pickup floor rather than have to fill holes
or an overlap seam down the middle.
 
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