U joints for '48 CJ2A

Bitzf4

Well Oiled
All-Star
Oct 13, 2020
2,500
Hastings mn
First Name
Jim
Willys Model
  1. CJ
Willys Year:
  1. 1948
So want to replace the u joints in my CJ. All the regular suppliers say Spicer type but I think I prefer the real spicer units. Metal shaper has a video installing 5-153x (1310 series) on his drive shafts but when you search using vehicle type no one says that is right one.

I don’t want to buy the cheapest to save a few and replace down the road. Anyone know if a known spicer number or confirm Brian has the right ones?

How about Neapco instead.

Bitz
 
Stock 2A drive shafts use a 1310 U joint (which is a size not a part number) If you want super good 1310's buy the ones Tom Woods Driveshafts sell to go in their drive shafts. I have never seen a better quality U joint and I been changing them for 45 years
 
Stock 2A drive shafts use a 1310 U joint (which is a size not a part number) If you want super good 1310's buy the ones Tom Woods Driveshafts sell to go in their drive shafts. I have never seen a better quality U joint and I been changing them for 45 years
Thanks Mark. Yep understand the 1310 is the size. My issue is to determine a good part number to actually order. As mentioned the 5-153x is a 1310 size so I assume it will work but when you put the vehicle info in it doesn’t include a cj2, so was concerned there might be a technical issue But sounds like any 1310 size will work and then it’s just sorting out a good choice

I will reach out to Tom Woods.

Bitz
 
One time two months ago I had a dream of getting mine replaced and went to NAPA, they have some really nice looking ones, we could barely string together 2 of the same, so I had already ordered some from Walcks.

So now I have 4 of one kind with zerks, 2 of a kind no zerks, and 2 single part numbers maybe one zerk one not.

Amazing how many 1310 are out there.
 
One time two months ago I had a dream of getting mine replaced and went to NAPA, they have some really nice looking ones, we could barely string together 2 of the same, so I had already ordered some from Walcks.

So now I have 4 of one kind with zerks, 2 of a kind no zerks, and 2 single part numbers maybe one zerk one not.

Amazing how many 1310 are out there.
Yep. Kind of like choosing tires
 
Stock 2A drive shafts use a 1310 U joint (which is a size not a part number) If you want super good 1310's buy the ones Tom Woods Driveshafts sell to go in their drive shafts. I have never seen a better quality U joint and I been changing them for 45 years
Reached out to Tom Woods. He was quick to respond but didn’t have much to offer. He isn’t sure which joints to use and also said the front ones are 1210 or 1100 not 1310. I can’t determine if that is true but I guess I will wait until I get them off and measure. He did send me some links to sites the help out in sorting out size etc.

So still more confused then before.
 
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There were some rare and unusual u-joints used in a couple of jeep vehicles over the years, but I don't think in a CJ. I thought they were alll 1310's. Some jeepster Commando's had some strange thing and then there were the trunions on some Wagoneers, so yeah, good to check. What links did he forward?
 
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0266/9871/1137/files/measuring_guide_without_logo_photos.pdf?1908

https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/category/app_axles_dana_27.html

https://4xshaft.com/products/26-spl...1&_sid=c1cebad7f&_ss=r&variant=32142580318305


Hi Jim,



I’d be lying if I said I know exactly what was stock on that vehicle and I’d be a fool if I expected everything to still be stock after 74 years. That being said, I expect that you’d have 1310 series joints on the front shat and 1210 or 1100 series on the front. You can measure your joints/yokes as shown on page 3 of this guidehttps://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0266/9871/1137/files/measuring_guide_without_logo_photos.pdf?1908 to determine what size you really have.



If you do have the smaller 1210 or 1100 joints on the front, I recommend changing your yokes to 1310 series, which will update and upgrade things. I think you probably have a Dana 27 front, if so you can find a yoke for that here https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/category/app_axles_dana_27.html. At the transfer case my guess would be a 10 spline output, if so you can find that yoke here https://4xshaft.com/products/26-spl...1&_sid=c1cebad7f&_ss=r&variant=32142580318305.



Regards



Shawn Wood
 
There were some rare and unusual u-joints used in a couple of jeep vehicles over the years, but I don't think in a CJ. I thought they were alll 1310's. Some jeepster Commando's had some strange thing and then there were the trunions on some Wagoneers, so yeah, good to check. What links did he forward?
Right now the issue is getting the front propeller off. I have the back brackets off the transfer case and one of the 2 at the front end but I don’t think the shaft can get any shorter to allow the shaft to come out. So then I guess the transfer case will need to come out. I hate the thought of replacing the shafts for $ and quality. If I go to Tom Woods they are upwards of $400 each. I worry the repops may be like a lot of repops and just end up with trouble. Once out I will clean them sand blast and see what I have

Thanks for all of the pointers everyone.

As a point of interest in the 48 CJ2A IPC, they don’t have a PN for just the ujoint.
 
$400 for a u-joint, or is that the price for two driveshafts and 4 u-joints? https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/5-1310x-dana-spicer-1310-non-greasable-u-joint-5-785x/?=5-1310X&msclkid=c1f01c94c0d81b7a6e177f921163fd85&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP Shop - Driveshaft&utm_term=4587506111928450&utm_content=15334 | 5-1310X Dana Spicer 1310 Non Greasable U Joint 5-785X | $15.84

If the driveshaft is fully compressed or siezed, maybe jack up the jeep and put jackstands under the bumper and let the suspension hang. No need to pull the T-case.

That first link is a handy resource! Thanx!
 
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It's a very common Spicer U joint. Lots of old vehicles used them. Don't make this harder than it is. Just bring it in to a parts store. they will match it. And look at where the U joint was made.
diggerG
 
$400 for a u-joint, or is that the price for two driveshafts and 4 u-joints? https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/5-1310x-dana-spicer-1310-non-greasable-u-joint-5-785x/?=5-1310X&msclkid=c1f01c94c0d81b7a6e177f921163fd85&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP Shop - Driveshaft&utm_term=4587506111928450&utm_content=15334 | 5-1310X Dana Spicer 1310 Non Greasable U Joint 5-785X | $15.84

If the driveshaft is fully compressed or siezed, maybe jack up the jeep and put jackstands under the bumper and let the suspension hang. No need to pull the T-case.

That first link is a handy resource! Thanx!
The $400 is for 1 drive shaft with joints etc. includes shipping etc.

Good idea on the jacking up

Hey Digger. I went to oreillys and they said they could only find a overseas version. Once I get them out maybe that will make it easier. I would prefer a u s made set. Napa says the 1310 is not the correct size But everyone seems to say it is
 
I would prefer a u s made set. Napa says the 1310 is not the correct size But everyone seems to say it is
Yes, USA is best. If for some reason yours are not 1310's you can, as Tom Woods said, upgrade by replacing the yokes and driveshaft. If the driveshaft is indeed shot, then that's a good way to go.
 
I paid $239.00 each for Tom Woods deluxe CJ5 drive shafts that included shipping. Like 3 years ago I just checked his CJ drivelines are 279 each
 
$400 for a u-joint, or is that the price for two driveshafts and 4 u-joints? https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/5-1310x-dana-spicer-1310-non-greasable-u-joint-5-785x/?=5-1310X&msclkid=c1f01c94c0d81b7a6e177f921163fd85&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP Shop - Driveshaft&utm_term=4587506111928450&utm_content=15334 | 5-1310X Dana Spicer 1310 Non Greasable U Joint 5-785X | $15.84

If the driveshaft is fully compressed or siezed, maybe jack up the jeep and put jackstands under the bumper and let the suspension hang. No need to pull the T-case.

That first link is a handy resource! Thanx!
Hey Jeff. While it may appear I am an idiot the front drive shaft is confirming it. I have both ends of the shaft u bolts out. The shaft is tight in the yokes and it won’t compress. I tried lifting the frame to let the front diff drop with the idea it might get the forward half of the shaft to separate from the rear. Nada. The diff doesn’t really “drop” either. I don’t know if everything is so frozen up it is held up by corrosion or I have some flubber in the pumpkin

I tried lifting the diff up to see if I can move it that way and nada. I don’t think it can actually compress any further as there are no splines left exposed. Then wonder if the right front shock is holding it up (pretty sure the flubber is not there).

Any other thoughts. Or is this like having a left hand thread bolt. It works differently than how I am visualizing it

BitzADDF61E1-348B-4B74-AC33-B25647DAB498.jpeg1EC29EB9-9161-4B7C-B6C7-FEF3A6A55F7C.jpeg
 
Have you tried to just pry it out with a small pry bar between the u-joint and the yoke? The slip-joint does not appear to be fully compressed so it should slide in with a little leverage.
 
Have you tried to just pry it out with a small pry bar between the u-joint and the yoke? The slip-joint does not appear to be fully compressed so it should slide in with a little leverage.
Yep. Just sits there. I am concerned the grease in the short hub is a hydraulic jam and no place for the grease to displace. I am getting ready to remove the zerk and see if it can allow the grease to move. U can only compress that stuff so much is my thought.
 
There's a small hole in the end of the slip joint. The grease is supposed to bleed out there. How hard have you pried? It can take a little leverage.
 
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