Truck Dynamat roof installation

Harveydavidson said:
please tell me how difficult it is to put Dynamat to the roof of a truck????

Question ,,, Will it stick and stay up there forever????

Is it worth the money or is there a better product ?????
I want to put a head liner over that

Please tell me your experiences!!!!!
Click to expand...
I used MFM building products Peel and seal aluminum roll roofing material and I dare you to be able to tell the difference between it and any product like Dynamat except for one thing, the price. It is MUCH cheaper than dynamat or any of the other rip off materials. I stuck it to every surface of my wagon, including the entire roof at least ten years ago and it's still up there and looking like new. Of course, with anything, surface prep is very important but I just wiped down mine with windex and a rag. Not one single inch of it has loosened or come down. Buy a roll and do a comparison, it's cheap.
 
Harveydavidson said:
please tell me how difficult it is to put Dynamat to the roof of a truck????

Question ,,, Will it stick and stay up there forever????

Is it worth the money or is there a better product ?????
I want to put a head liner over that

Please tell me your experiences!!!!!
Click to expand...
Basically it comes down to what you're trying to do; so what are you trying to do?
Once again, let's look at vehicular insulating materials:

Dyanmat (and all the other butyl products) is a sound deadener. This means when it's properly applied it will absorb the micro-vibrations in the metal that amplify sound. Think of it as a damper... It's a great underlayment to what ever else you use to insulate. My favorites these days are KilMat and Siless, both around 1.60 a sq. ft. (compare to the roofing crap mentioned above at 7 bucks!) and you can buy them in small packages thus eliminating waste. (compared to the roofing at a min. 7' roll). Also, could not find how thick the roofing stuff is, I would doubt it's the 80mil thickness of the automotive product.

Next you would have sound absorbers. My favorite is 3M's Thinsulate (yes, same stuff in your jacket) . It comes in two thicknesses for automotive use; 1" and 2". Obviously, the thicker the better. Not only does it do a good job at absorbing sound, it also has great thermal insulating properties. Something to think about when the sun is beating down or there's snow on your roof. It attaches fast and permanently with 3M's spray 90 adhesive. And it's totally hydrophobic, so condensation won't be absorbed like it can be in carpet. There are other materials like sheep's wool and recycled denim if you're going for a "green" feel. They work well from what I hear...

Then there are sound barriers, the best being lead but it's expensive and really heavy. The stuff I prefer is called Mass Loaded Vinyl or MLV. It has a density similar to lead but less expensive and easier to work with. But, both of these materials need to be decoupled from the metal, and you would use a Closed Cell Foam, or CCF, for that. If you don't, then the sound just transfers from the metal (firewall) to the material and into your environment. MLV makes a great firewall sound barrier, but it needs to cover it completely to be very effective, which means cutting to fit and taping all of the seams. You can buy it with a layer of CCF pre-bonded to one side to make th installation easier. And again, goes up permanently with 3M 90. Though I wouldn't bother with it on your roof.

Last but not least are the hybrids that include Noico's "Red" (a CCF material) and Lizard Skin, a spray-able coating. The first is an interesting product, I have some but haven't used it yet. It's a type of CCF that claims to be both a deadener and absorber and thermal barrier. OK.... but is it good at all 3? Dunno.
Lizard Skin gets mixed reviews. Some folks are all in and will tell you it's better than sex, but I've paid less for good sex; Lizard Skin ain't cheap! I would like to try it myself if I had the underside and the interior of my Wagon body sandblasted, surface prep is key for that stuff and it needs to be applied to as much surface as possible for max efficiency. Yer on yer own...

FWIW, in my wagon I'm using KilMat where ever I can stick it on (and yes, it sticks permanently to clean surfaces, including the inside of your roof, but get and use a ROLLER!) and then Thinsulate over that. I'm using MLV on the floors and I'll try the Noico Red on the inside of the firewall and underside of the cowl. And when you tap the body panels, you get a nice dull thud.

As far as home materials are concerened, sure you can cheap out and use roofing material, carpet, wood, pink fiberglass, whatever... It WILL do something! And it's better than nothing. But it might just soak up some water and get smelly or moldy or ? Then getting that sex will probaly be off the table after the first ride.

My moto is "buy once, cry once". Go for the high priced call girl or the skank at the stop sign; your choice ;)
 
For what it’s worth that roofing repair stuff, I’ve used it to deal with a relatively small area because it was convenient to buy (Lowe’s) and is made from butyl and aluminum-ish metal stuff, so not asphalt. But Bob’s description of the other products is very thorough and a trip through Amazon will yield many different brands and option. Not that I’m any sort of expert but I used to have ideas of doing something like that to my small hardtop sports car. In the end, inertia ruled and I left things as they were.

John
 
Tralehead said:
Basically it comes down to what you're trying to do; so what are you trying to do?
Once again, let's look at vehicular insulating materials:

Dyanmat (and all the other butyl products) is a sound deadener. This means when it's properly applied it will absorb the micro-vibrations in the metal that amplify sound. Think of it as a damper... It's a great underlayment to what ever else you use to insulate. My favorites these days are KilMat and Siless, both around 1.60 a sq. ft. (compare to the roofing crap mentioned above at 7 bucks!) and you can buy them in small packages thus eliminating waste. (compared to the roofing at a min. 7' roll). Also, could not find how thick the roofing stuff is, I would doubt it's the 80mil thickness of the automotive product.

Next you would have sound absorbers. My favorite is 3M's Thinsulate (yes, same stuff in your jacket) . It comes in two thicknesses for automotive use; 1" and 2". Obviously, the thicker the better. Not only does it do a good job at absorbing sound, it also has great thermal insulating properties. Something to think about when the sun is beating down or there's snow on your roof. It attaches fast and permanently with 3M's spray 90 adhesive. And it's totally hydrophobic, so condensation won't be absorbed like it can be in carpet. There are other materials like sheep's wool and recycled denim if you're going for a "green" feel. They work well from what I hear...

Then there are sound barriers, the best being lead but it's expensive and really heavy. The stuff I prefer is called Mass Loaded Vinyl or MLV. It has a density similar to lead but less expensive and easier to work with. But, both of these materials need to be decoupled from the metal, and you would use a Closed Cell Foam, or CCF, for that. If you don't, then the sound just transfers from the metal (firewall) to the material and into your environment. MLV makes a great firewall sound barrier, but it needs to cover it completely to be very effective, which means cutting to fit and taping all of the seams. You can buy it with a layer of CCF pre-bonded to one side to make th installation easier. And again, goes up permanently with 3M 90. Though I wouldn't bother with it on your roof.

Last but not least are the hybrids that include Noico's "Red" (a CCF material) and Lizard Skin, a spray-able coating. The first is an interesting product, I have some but haven't used it yet. It's a type of CCF that claims to be both a deadener and absorber and thermal barrier. OK.... but is it good at all 3? Dunno.
Lizard Skin gets mixed reviews. Some folks are all in and will tell you it's better than sex, but I've paid less for good sex; Lizard Skin ain't cheap! I would like to try it myself if I had the underside and the interior of my Wagon body sandblasted, surface prep is key for that stuff and it needs to be applied to as much surface as possible for max efficiency. Yer on yer own...

FWIW, in my wagon I'm using KilMat where ever I can stick it on (and yes, it sticks permanently to clean surfaces, including the inside of your roof, but get and use a ROLLER!) and then Thinsulate over that. I'm using MLV on the floors and I'll try the Noico Red on the inside of the firewall and underside of the cowl. And when you tap the body panels, you get a nice dull thud.

As far as home materials are concerened, sure you can cheap out and use roofing material, carpet, wood, pink fiberglass, whatever... It WILL do something! And it's better than nothing. But it might just soak up some water and get smelly or moldy or ? Then getting that sex will probaly be off the table after the first ride.

My moto is "buy once, cry once". Go for the high priced call girl or the skank at the stop sign; your choice ;)
Click to expand...
@Tralehead, excellent information! I have been trying to figure this out recently. What about using multiple products? Like a sound deadener and absorber? My general question is that I would like to insulate my CJ hardtop to quiet it as much as possible. Should I use a deadener, absorber, both? I have about 1/2" of space between the headliner and the roof. What would you recommend?
 
A few more things:
KilMat has (imho) some ugly graphics which easily wipe away with a clean rag and acetone leaving a nice plain shiny surface. Or try that Siless, it's black! I'm going to use it under my hood (a great place to insulate as it's just a giant sound amplifier and the added weight helps cut wind wiggle)

Using the roofing primer or contact cement really isn't necessary unless the surface is really funky, in which case a better idea would be to just take the time and effort to scrape off the old Willys' applied sound deadener (looks like splotchy undercoating) or rust or crud or all 3. Then wipe everything with acetone and you're good to go.

Some folks, especially the sports car crowd like to use deadener as a sound and thermal barrier as well so they will cover everything. This is where the silver tape helps as it seals up all the little open spots where heat and sound waves come through. There's a brand of deadener called Hushmat that sells itself as a barrier as well. It's another type of hybrid material that uses butyl as a base and they will insist you use the tape.
Technically, you don't need to cover everything with deadener to get the vibration absorbing benefit but if you're only using one material to do everything than you should tape all the seams.

Kits: Just about everybody sells "kits" that include pre-cut panels, rollers and tape. I remember a company that even had a plastic interior hood liner stamped with a big "WO". Pretty cool if you need that kind of thing, but you're paying for it.

Inferno said:
What about using multiple products? Like a sound deadener and absorber? My general question is that I would like to insulate my CJ hardtop to quiet it as much as possible. Should I use a deadener, absorber, both? I have about 1/2" of space between the headliner and the roof. What would you recommend?
Click to expand...
Absolutely! I got into this insulating thing through upfitting adventure vans and my favorite combo for roofs and walls is deadener with Thinsulate over that. You'll need the 1" Thinsulate and it'll squish down, which technically reduces its efficiency but it will still work. Just use spray 90 on the black scrim side to adhere it to the foil. You don't even need to spray both surfaces, just stick it on wet and it will never come off!

You could substitute the Thinsulate with an open cell foam if you're really concerned about space. FYI it's all the little air spaces that do the insulating. I've also seen guys use the thin hard foam insulation sold for garage doors, better than nothing!*
Harveydavidson said:
Doors are next
Click to expand...
Yes! And use 1" Thinsulate in them as well (so it clears the windows). It's hydrophobic so water will just drip out and go out you well cleaned door drains. Use the KillMat on both the onside of the exterior metal and the interior facing panel getting as many spots as possible. You can press it on using a tightly wadded microfiber cloth in your fist, just be careful with scraping your knuckles. Nothing sounds better than a door that closes with a nice "thud"!

*again, even home specific stuff is better than nothing. FWIW I knew a guy who would scrounge scraps of open cell foam padding from a dumpster behind an upholstery shop. He stuffed it in every conceivable place on the inside of his Econoline. He then made panels from cheap doorskin and covered those with scrounged shag carpet. And yes it made a big difference but... well, you be the judge ;)

The main thing is don't use stuff that stinks or will hold moisture!

And don't get mind boggled by all the stuff you see when you do an internet search for car insulation. It all boils down to those three things I described above, the rest is just marketing in a very competitive business.
Just have fun and get your Willys RUNNING!
Cause.... see below
 
ndnile said:
Using roofing materials has come up a few times. If it is asphalt/tar based beware of flammability. A number of years ago here a member had an electrical issue that ignited it and he had a full-on inferno going that he could not put out.
Click to expand...
It was a video of a comparison between the stuff I used against dynamat and several other name brands that made me go the direction I went. One thing they did is to burn them with a torch to see what happens and they all burned at about the same rate. Dynamat as mentioned, is also a butyl type substance, same as the material I used. I just urge people to do a comparison, it's so must less expensive, it's worth buying a roll, buy a square of Dynamat or any other name brand stuff and compare for yourselves.
 
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