To swap frames or not, that is the question.

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That looks like it. It even cleared a dealer installed tow hitch that came with mine.

Look on FSJ forums too now. That is part of what you are building ha


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Hey Duane, so I’ve been busy working on small aspects of this project. I purchased the 2 door s10 blazer gas tank but am wondering if it will line up correctly and not hang down too low. Plus the tank I bought has no baffles inside which doesn’t seem right. I still have yet to do new body mounts and fix it up to the new frame. Should I be concerned about a tank with no baffles?
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I thought it hung down too far until I looked at other "modern rigs"

I am actually about to do another cut n chop. I may be relocating the filler to the driver's side. It will be easier to route a Tee to the Wagoneer coffin tank that sits under the driver's seat underbelly.

I altered to rear bed bracing to allow the tank to ride within 1/2 " of the body.

The tank seam flange sits about 1.25 inches above the bottom of the frame rail. I have a factory or dealer added Waggy hitch that bolts to the bottom of the frame. The bottom of the tank is currently flush with that.

Sadly that too is going to change because I am reworking the rear crossmember to bring the hitch up 1.5 inches, snug to the rear apron. Better departure angle. Tanks will both be skid plated.

Baffles would be nice. Personally do not know of any. Used the blazer tank because of late night reading on a full size jeep forum.

Yours looks good sitting together.

Best of luck,

Duane

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Well I’ll wait and see if the tank is right for me before I pull the trigger and return it within the 60 day return policy. First I need to cut and fit that body to the frame. Stay tuned.


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Haven’t been doing my due diligence and documenting any of my progress but that’s not to say that there haven’t been any. Over the past couple months I’ve yanked the motor out of the Silverado doner truck. I bought a 4L60e and had it rebuilt with HD kit. I also found a freshly rebuilt Dana300 that has a 4:1 Teralow installed and came with the Advance Adapter. My buddy did all the welding of new body mounts and fitted the frame with 2 new cross members to set motor and trans. Also filled all holes in the firewall, and floor areas to start fresh. So today I painted the whole with POR15. Now it’s time to bolt the body back to frame and plumb in my brakes.
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Front axle is too wide for my taste. Those are 31x10.5x15 on the stock waggy wheels. The rear axle is not so bad tires don’t stick out at all.


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Willysworker at cardomain

http://www.cardomain.com/member/willysworker/

If the link doesn't work, google it. I got inspiration from some of his pictures. There are a few shots of his body/frame mounts.

Duane

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I like his Willys and some good ideas in the write up and pics. He mentions a 40 gallon fuel tank, any idea where he got it or what it was out of?
 
I like his Willys and some good ideas in the write up and pics. He mentions a 40 gallon fuel tank, any idea where he got it or what it was out of?
Full size Jeep Wagoneer guys use square body Suburban fuel tanks. They have to remove factory trailer hitches and sometimes relocate shock mounts. The diesel tank for that application is 40 gallons, while the gasoline version is 32. I had a 32 gallon suburban tank mocked up in my build but I felt it hung down too far.

I recall reading somewhere that he used a Suburban tank in his build.

Another possibility is an aftermarket rear fuel tank with the stock saddle tank. Aero tanks made one specific to the Wagoneer to fit in the spare tire space. My chassis donor had one in it. (1980's solution to 10 mpg Jeep Wagoneer)

I have 40 gallons in my build now using a stock 1979 Wagoneer 21 gallon coffin tank inside the frame rail under the driver's side and a 2 door s S10 Blazer 19 gallon tank in the rear.

The coffin tank would most likely not fit with an automatic trans. It clears my Dana 18 transfer case by about 4 inches with a relatively short transmission/transfer case combo. (Chevy SM420, adapter, Dana 18, Warn OD.) I have a heat shield on the front center corner of the coffin tank because my exhaust crossover is closer to the tank than I would like.

The pre 1980 Wagoneer coffin tank requires an offset rear differential. I was messing with the idea of a 14 bolt rear end. The driveshaft would have eliminated the front tank. I have read that FSJ guys fit a 14 bolt rear under 1980 and newer Waggys. I assume the tank is narrower. The newer version tanks are 19 gallons instead of 21, plastic instead of steel.

Sorry long winded. Just sharing what I think I know. LOL.

Duane

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Full size Jeep Wagoneer guys use square body Suburban fuel tanks. They have to remove factory trailer hitches and sometimes relocate shock mounts. The diesel tank for that application is 40 gallons, while the gasoline version is 32. I had a 32 gallon suburban tank mocked up in my build but I felt it hung down too far.

I recall reading somewhere that he used a Suburban tank in his build.


Sorry long winded. Just sharing what I think I know. LOL.

Duane

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Duane

Thanks for the info. I'm pulling my SM465/NP205 out for a 700R4/NP208 so I think the coffin tank is out. But once I have the trans swap done I have a 77 Wagoneer next to the shop I can measure to see if the tank will fit. :)

I have a 79 Blazer that I put a 40 gallon Suburban tank in, it was a direct fit. I need to measure and see if it will fit my Willys.

I've got a new plastic 21 gallon (they said 19 gal but I measured 21 in it) repop in my Willys right now but would like more capacity. Some dipshit stole the original 12 gallon Traveler saddle tank when I had it out for cleaning and a new sender. That's one of the few things I''ve had ripped off in years.
 
Hey Traveller,

Why the swap? Just curious.

Cheers!

I had my right leg chopped off in 2008, so having 2 pedals instead of 3 will make driving it a lot easier. My buddys say it won't be as much fun to watch though especially in traffic. :cool:


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Ok so today for the first time I did a test fit of my Dana300 to my 4L60e using an advance adapter which only has 2 choices for clocking it. In either of the two positions the front output looks way too close to trans oil pan. Thought about rotating t-case to a suitable position then marking the adapter and drilling a new set of holes. Looking for advice from anyone who’s gone this path before.
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What Marcus said, plus the tail of trans needs a minimum 1 1/2" offset to passenger side to clear the pan.
Google it plenty of info
 
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