This might be a strange question, or just a strange problem. EXCESSIVE fuel pressure.

My money is on dirt in the system, holding the needle valve from closing. Stuff was apart, dirt got in somewhere. All it takes is a microscopic bit. Been there. When everything's eventually truly clean, it will be OK.
Vac on my dual pump is on top too.

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My money is on dirt in the system, holding the needle valve from closing. Stuff was apart, dirt got in somewhere. All it takes is a microscopic bit. Been there. When everything's eventually truly clean, it will be OK.
I measured 15+ psi fuel pressure before float bowel went dry from the mechanical pump. Gauge pegged at 15.
 
Buy an inexpensive universal electric pump and plumb it in with rubber hose, bypassing the mechanical pump and see what happens. I did that on a hunting trip once and finished the trip. I keep it and a block off plate in the tool boxes under the seat now, just in case.
 
My fuel was hooked to top when I got truck back and had the same issue, fuel gushing out carb. Rebuilt carb, tried another one and same issue. From this thread I found where it said the fuel should be at the bottom and sure enough, that fixed my problem when I swapped around. Thanks to all. Now what do I do with vacuum pump not needed, converter to electric motor earlier.
 
I am glad you found the answer to the fuel issue, I am sure those smarter than I will be able to tell you if you should plug it or just leave it alone.
Welcome to the forum.

Steve
 
Thanks Steve, I just got it running but sounds bad, back firing on start up, missing but running. It has been sitting for about 3-4 years. Will start the task of finding issues as I have time.
 
My fuel was hooked to top when I got truck back and had the same issue, fuel gushing out carb. Rebuilt carb, tried another one and same issue. From this thread I found where it said the fuel should be at the bottom and sure enough, that fixed my problem when I swapped around. Thanks to all. Now what do I do with vacuum pump not needed, converter to electric motor earlier.

On the vacuum ports, leave them open or hook them together.. Don't just plug them..
 
Keep it simple. Just disconnect the fuel line to the carb and gravity feed your carb with gas. If it overflows the carb, your float or needle valve have an issue. If it does not overflow and the engine runs proper your pump is the issue.
 
Buy an inexpensive universal electric pump and plumb it in with rubber hose, bypassing the mechanical pump and see what happens. I did that on a hunting trip once and finished the trip. I keep it and a block off plate in the tool boxes under the seat now, just in case.
I did this, because I'm still assessing the condition of the rest of the Wagon before I start spending a lot of money on stuff before I know what else is wrong. I'll probibly order two rebuild kits, and rebuild my spare as well.
 
I believe the rebuild kits from Walck's are only for the original Carter dual action fuel pump. Will not work with replacement pump by AC. I could be wrong so check with Walck's.

Steve
 
I'll check, the electric pump will get me through the assessments on the driveline. I think I need an ignition coil, it starts and runs for a little bit, then dies, won't restart right away, but fires right off if a wait a few minutes, plus the coil is getting noticeably warm after a fairly short time. Parts store run tomorrow. Think I burned off the trans fluid I poured into the spark plug holes since this was setting at least a few years without being started. Was supposed to be rebuilt, has 60 psi oil pressure shortly after starting at idle, so pretty sure the bottom end isn't tired at least.
 
Just in case anyone needs a visual. [emoji3]
b7f1ae0341349d5108f68eb3df4ba51b.jpg


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#1: Fuel line is way too close to the exhaust manifold and the water hose. Fuel is probably vaporizing in the tube. #2 Is there a correct spacer between the fuel pump and block?
 
Yes, they definitely had this hooked up backwards, Thanks for the photo confirming my belief.
 
If you do buy a regulator, be aware that the Holley Regulators and most others will NOT work. They aren't fine tunable to the low pressures we need. They are for High performance racers with high consumption engines. Mine was made for small displacement British cars with low pressure and is adjustable in half lbs to 5 lb. max. I tried my flathead at 1.5 on up, and it had no noticeable starvation at 2. I gave it another half, but your 6 could need more. I think it depends on the carb more than the displacement though.


Not so if you buy the proper Holley they have one that adjusts from 1-4 psi model number HLY-12-804 Summit sells them for $32.08 I have used two of them with Weber DGV carbs that run on 2.5psi and they work perfectly the one on the wifes 67 mustang had gone 140K when we sold it.
 
Do you have a spacer between the pump and block? Spacers are to set the arm further out and take a shorter stroke to control fuel pressure.
 
Not so if you buy the proper Holley they have one that adjusts from 1-4 psi model number HLY-12-804 Summit sells them for $32.08 I have used two of them with Weber DGV carbs that run on 2.5psi and they work perfectly the one on the wifes 67 mustang had gone 140K when we sold it.
That is about what I paid for mine. I'd give that one a try. My problem ended up being a non fixable problem with the cruddy float design on the aftermarket carb. I don't think it was fuel pressure in my case at all. Just a needle that would stick open from time to time.
 
Do you have a spacer between the pump and block? Spacers are to set the arm further out and take a shorter stroke to control fuel pressure.
No idea, I haven't gotten the old one off yet. But since it came with two other hammered pumps in the back. I'm going to bet some idiot left it off if there was one. Was just out working on the brakes on the back now that the new hub and studs are here, went to hook the new E-brake cable on the right side and noticed there is vertical movement in that axle so I need to do axle bearings now once I order those.
 
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