Don't fergit....ANNIVERSARY THIS FRIDAY!!!!!
Starting a thread on the build of my '55 Wagon
- Thread starter tthenrie
- Start date
Thanks!
Ok. I think I figured out the hood support rod. Now I need to understand something about the electric cooling fan. @Blindmelon, how is yours wired up? My question is about the thermostatic control switch. The ones I see online are made to go into the engine port for the temp sensor. So if the thermostatic switch is in the temp sensor port, where does the temp gauge in the dash get its signal from? Does the switch do double duty? Or how about the port on the driver side of the block below the exhaust manifold. Is that a water jacket port?
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RV Aych
Precision Fit
I just went through this installing dual electric fans. I'm not any expert on electrical systems or issues, but what I learned [from online research, so don't assume it's reliable] is that the temp sensor for your temp gauge is not a switch, just a sensor. Assuming you want to keep your temp sensor but don't have a spare threaded [coolant] port in your intake manifold [or elsewhere], you might need to install the thermostatic switch in a separate port. Perhaps in a ported thermostat housing [how I did mine], or a probe inserted into the radiator fins, or a ported fitting spliced into the radiator hose. I wired my dual fans to come on together with one thermostatic switch. If I had wanted them to come on at different temp settings, I would need two separate thermostatic switches. There are also electronic units [expensive] that can control the fans as well. Hope this helps.
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Today , for our 44th Wedding Anniversary, I took my good wife out to dinner at Texas Roadhouse. Sadly, we were disappointed. Service was sub-par, the food was very so-so, and it just wasn't what we expected. Going out to dinner is certainly not what it used to be. After dinner, we did our traditional walk through Lowe's. We started doing that over 30 years ago, while we were building a house. We still enjoy it. it's a nice opportunity to hold hands.
So, I didn't get a lot done on my wagon today, but I got some details done. After several trips to O'Reillys, I was finally able to find a fan belt that is the right size for my custom application. I was able to find upper and lower radiator hoses that could be adapted to my application. I started re-connecting the wiring harness to the engine, although I'm going to be making changes to it starting next week. I got the headlights and marker lights reinstalled. I had to do a little hammer clearancing on the driver side headlight bucket, where the new radiator mount interfered just a bit. I got the hood rubber seals installed and the hood pretty well adjusted.
I ordered electrical parts to complete the wiring for the on-board welder and alternator. Should be here by next weekend. I also ordered a thermostatic switch for the cooling fan. That should arrive Tuesday. I am going to try to install the thermostatic fan switch in a water-jacket port on the driver side of the engine and see if that works to turn it on and off at appropriated temps. If that isn't satisfactory, I'll probably rig a port for it in the upper radiator hose with an adapter similar to the one shown in Roger's post above.
Things are just about back together. I should be able to get her started up again next week. Still need to rebuild the floors and finish the exhaust system though.
So, my wagon again looks like a wagon. We're not far from getting it running.
So, I didn't get a lot done on my wagon today, but I got some details done. After several trips to O'Reillys, I was finally able to find a fan belt that is the right size for my custom application. I was able to find upper and lower radiator hoses that could be adapted to my application. I started re-connecting the wiring harness to the engine, although I'm going to be making changes to it starting next week. I got the headlights and marker lights reinstalled. I had to do a little hammer clearancing on the driver side headlight bucket, where the new radiator mount interfered just a bit. I got the hood rubber seals installed and the hood pretty well adjusted.
I ordered electrical parts to complete the wiring for the on-board welder and alternator. Should be here by next weekend. I also ordered a thermostatic switch for the cooling fan. That should arrive Tuesday. I am going to try to install the thermostatic fan switch in a water-jacket port on the driver side of the engine and see if that works to turn it on and off at appropriated temps. If that isn't satisfactory, I'll probably rig a port for it in the upper radiator hose with an adapter similar to the one shown in Roger's post above.
Things are just about back together. I should be able to get her started up again next week. Still need to rebuild the floors and finish the exhaust system though.
So, my wagon again looks like a wagon. We're not far from getting it running.
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Coming along very nice
Old school repair and maintain
Old school repair and maintain
Happy anniversary! ( and the wagon looks good too)!!!
- Sep 20, 2017
- 8,511
- First Name
- Jeff
- Willys Model
- Wagon
- Pickup
- CJ
- Willys Year:
- 1955
- 1958
- 1962
Happy anniversary....but you ony took the "good wife"?? Is/are there others?
I decided looooong ago that there's no way I could keep more than one happy! Besides, more than one wife means more than one mother in law!
Hey, could you post a link for that ported thermostat housing? If there's one for a 258/4.2L engine, that would be the way to go, I think.I just went through this installing dual electric fans. I'm not any expert on electrical systems or issues, but what I learned [from online research, so don't assume it's reliable] is that the temp sensor for your temp gauge is not a switch, just a sensor. Assuming you want to keep your temp sensor but don't have a spare threaded [coolant] port in your intake manifold [or elsewhere], you might need to install the thermostatic switch in a separate port. Perhaps in a ported thermostat housing [how I did mine], or a probe inserted into the radiator fins, or a ported fitting spliced into the radiator hose. I wired my dual fans to come on together with one thermostatic switch. If I had wanted them to come on at different temp settings, I would need two separate thermostatic switches. There are also electronic units [expensive] that can control the fan as well. Hope this helps.
RV Aych
Precision Fit
Hey. A quick web search using the search string 'ported thermostat housing 258/4.2L' turned up this link.... https://bjsoffroad.com/thermostat-housing-258-with-port/
Another at Oreilly's Auto Parts.... https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...urray-climate-control-water-outlet/mry0/84801
There may be other sources as well.
Thanks. I couldn't get anything to come up. I guess I'm search-handicapped. I'm going to see if O'Reilly's has one in stock at my local store and take my spare and compare them. That one shown in the link looks like it's for a V8. The one from BJS Offroad looks right, though.
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Today I'm working on the old Willys heater. I rewired the two motors, but I'm betting they're 6V motors, so I'm going to have to install voltage reducing resistors. The ones I'm seeing from our suppliers are ridiculously expensive. Is there any reason I couldn't use a ballast resistor? I mean, they are supposed take the 12-14V and reduce it to 6-9V and they are certainly heavy-duty. New, they are about the same price, but you can find them used on any older vehicle. In fact, I am wondering if I couldn't run the two fans and the ignition off the same resister simultaneously. I wonder how much current they are made to handle. If that would work, I'm already set.
Ahh! I just found the resistors I need, 2 ohm, 50 watt for $7.89 through Walmart. So, that's handled.
I'm very tempted to pretty this old heater unit up. Flat black for the heater core, gloss black for the motors, hammered-gray for the shell...Naaaah! It would look out of place!
Ahh! I just found the resistors I need, 2 ohm, 50 watt for $7.89 through Walmart. So, that's handled.
I'm very tempted to pretty this old heater unit up. Flat black for the heater core, gloss black for the motors, hammered-gray for the shell...Naaaah! It would look out of place!
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Trying to figure out what to do on my electrical system....you don't need to read all this. Typing it out helps me visualize it.
I have been working out in my head what I need to update/upgrade it. There are some things I can't quite see in my head and will probably just have to start putting it together to figure out. For instance, the on-board welder uses an alternator with a by-passed regulator, so I need a voltage regulator for the wagon's 12V system. The alternator/welder needs a Ford-type 4-pin regulator (which should arrive tomorrow). A rocker switch will be installed to switch from regular 12V charging system to the welder function. To excite the alternator, a simple 12V one-wire connection from the battery is used. So, that will be my "alternator" circuit, but I don't know whether to fuse it or what size fuse to use. The alternator generates its own current, but the exciter just gives it something to go on to begin with, so it doesn't need a huge fuse for that. More research to be done.
Then, I have made a list of all the electrical circuits I will need to have, each one fused, several with relays as well:
- alternator
- headlights - relay
- brake lights
- parking lights
- directional signals
- horn - relay
- interior lights
- dash lights
- gauges
- on-board compressor - relay
- fun-time radio
- GMRS radio
- accessory lights - relay
- USB charger(s)/cigarette lighter 12V socket
- electric cooling fan - relay
- heater fan
- defroster fan
- 3 spare slots
That is 17 circuits plus 3 extra slots for future expansion, including 5 with relays. I'm thinking that an extra slot or two with relays would not be a bad idea as well. Am I forgetting anything? So, at least 20 circuits anyway.
I am considering dividing the circuits into interior and exterior circuits and having separate fuse terminal blocks for them. I've done a lot of vehicular wiring, even build my own harnesses several times on older vehicles, but I have never actually converted one over to using fuse blocks, so this is new for me. Most of the wiring is already in place, because I already made a new wiring harness for the wagon, but I just replicated the original one, for the most part, so going with a full pre-made harness doesn't seem like the best option for me.
I am looking at these two fuse blocks on Amazon:
Interior: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YCGMLK...16NREUFNK&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
Engine bay: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YCGMLK...16NREUFNK&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
Or something like this, and just put it all in one place: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DP34349...=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1
What do you think? Suggestions?
I have been working out in my head what I need to update/upgrade it. There are some things I can't quite see in my head and will probably just have to start putting it together to figure out. For instance, the on-board welder uses an alternator with a by-passed regulator, so I need a voltage regulator for the wagon's 12V system. The alternator/welder needs a Ford-type 4-pin regulator (which should arrive tomorrow). A rocker switch will be installed to switch from regular 12V charging system to the welder function. To excite the alternator, a simple 12V one-wire connection from the battery is used. So, that will be my "alternator" circuit, but I don't know whether to fuse it or what size fuse to use. The alternator generates its own current, but the exciter just gives it something to go on to begin with, so it doesn't need a huge fuse for that. More research to be done.
Then, I have made a list of all the electrical circuits I will need to have, each one fused, several with relays as well:
- alternator
- headlights - relay
- brake lights
- parking lights
- directional signals
- horn - relay
- interior lights
- dash lights
- gauges
- on-board compressor - relay
- fun-time radio
- GMRS radio
- accessory lights - relay
- USB charger(s)/cigarette lighter 12V socket
- electric cooling fan - relay
- heater fan
- defroster fan
- 3 spare slots
That is 17 circuits plus 3 extra slots for future expansion, including 5 with relays. I'm thinking that an extra slot or two with relays would not be a bad idea as well. Am I forgetting anything? So, at least 20 circuits anyway.
I am considering dividing the circuits into interior and exterior circuits and having separate fuse terminal blocks for them. I've done a lot of vehicular wiring, even build my own harnesses several times on older vehicles, but I have never actually converted one over to using fuse blocks, so this is new for me. Most of the wiring is already in place, because I already made a new wiring harness for the wagon, but I just replicated the original one, for the most part, so going with a full pre-made harness doesn't seem like the best option for me.
I am looking at these two fuse blocks on Amazon:
Interior: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YCGMLK...16NREUFNK&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
Engine bay: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YCGMLK...16NREUFNK&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
Or something like this, and just put it all in one place: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DP34349...=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1
What do you think? Suggestions?
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I spent all day today terminating #2 cables for the alternator/welder, then deciphering and duplicating the wiring diagram. I started with the end and have been working back toward the regulator. Tomorrow, if I get time, I'll get the regulator wired in. From there I can patch things back into the old wiring harness. My new fuse blocks don't arrive until Saturday. I made a partial box to mount the welder controls on. Turned out nicely. Now that I have everything in place, I need to take it all apart again and finish and paint the box. Photos coming maybe tomorrow.
Also, the temptation was too great. I cleaned up and painted the heater parts just the way I said. It's all drying on the rack now. I should be able to get it reassembled and installed tomorrow.
Also, the temptation was too great. I cleaned up and painted the heater parts just the way I said. It's all drying on the rack now. I should be able to get it reassembled and installed tomorrow.
A couple photos today.
I got the heater reassembled, but not quite installed. I am questioning whether to change the location a little bit. I really don't like where/how it was installed, but there just may not be much choice. Anyway, it looks a lot better than it did.
I also got all the wiring for my alternator/welder made and installed. I just need to finish connections on the regulator and patching in the old wiring harness. Almost got there today. Just ran out of energy. I'm still waiting on a couple parts for the welder. I ordered a volt meter for it and a couple indicator lights. I am going to need a couple "idiot lights" to tell me when it's in welding mode and when it's in normal charging mode. I'm looking forward to testing it out. I'm also waiting on a couple fuse blocks. Those may take more time to get them incorporated into the electrical system. Should be here Saturday.
I got the heater reassembled, but not quite installed. I am questioning whether to change the location a little bit. I really don't like where/how it was installed, but there just may not be much choice. Anyway, it looks a lot better than it did.
I also got all the wiring for my alternator/welder made and installed. I just need to finish connections on the regulator and patching in the old wiring harness. Almost got there today. Just ran out of energy. I'm still waiting on a couple parts for the welder. I ordered a volt meter for it and a couple indicator lights. I am going to need a couple "idiot lights" to tell me when it's in welding mode and when it's in normal charging mode. I'm looking forward to testing it out. I'm also waiting on a couple fuse blocks. Those may take more time to get them incorporated into the electrical system. Should be here Saturday.
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Gojeep
Well Oiled
Heater came up well. 
I finished patching together the electrical system today. Turns out there is a current drain. I expect it's somewhere in the new section I added for the alternator/welder. I followed the schematic diagram exactly, so I'll start disconnecting things until I identify what it is.
Also, my new fuse blocks arrived today. I ordered both of the first two I linked above. I'm quite pleased with the build quality and the wiring on both units. So, looks like I'll be tearing back into the wiring next week.
I also received the new woodruff seat cutter I ordered, so I will probably get the winch back on the front next week as well.
Still making progress!
Also, my new fuse blocks arrived today. I ordered both of the first two I linked above. I'm quite pleased with the build quality and the wiring on both units. So, looks like I'll be tearing back into the wiring next week.
I also received the new woodruff seat cutter I ordered, so I will probably get the winch back on the front next week as well.
Still making progress!
It’s not good when the electrons take a short cut.