Starting a thread on the build of my '55 Wagon

tthenrie

Sharpest Tool
All-Star
Oct 6, 2024
477
Utah
First Name
Tony
Willys Model
  1. Wagon
Willys Year:
  1. 1955
Just starting a thread to document the build of the 1955 Willys Wagon I just bought. It's going to take awhile, so don't be impatient.

I have wanted a Willys Wagon for many years, but things just never worked out. So, when I saw this one listed in the classifieds recently, I took a long look at it, then decided against. Too far gone, they wanted too much, all sorts of reasons NOT to buy it. I just kept looking back at it and finally floated an offer I really didn't think they would accept. Turns out they did. I got it for $400. It's rough, but not beyond my capabilities.

I drove up last Monday and took a look at it, paid for it, and received the title. It is sitting on a contractor trailer. The Willys is on a variety of just barely standing jacks with the front and rear wheels on the driver's side off. Both hubs and drums are missing, but I was able to find the front hub and drum. The passenger side tires are dry rotted and flat - no chance of holding air. There is rust cancer on the bottom of the door and the rear wheel well on the driver's side, but otherwise the body isn't too bad, except for the driver's side front fender, which has seen better days. Every piece of glass is cracked or missing. Some rust-out in the passenger side floor, but I couldn't see the driver's side floor - a lot of junk in the way. It has a PTO driven winch, which is cool. The gauge cluster is trash. Looks like something smashed into it.

I was hoping the original engine was there, but no. It has what I believe to be a Chevy 235 straight 6 in it. The engine is fairly clean, the air filter is on the carb, the starter appears to be new, and the engine is free (not seized up). I'm hoping it is in running condition. It still has the original T-90 and Spicer 18 in it and the T-90 felt good shifting through the gears.

Underneath, the frame has a lot of surface rust, but appears to be solid and undamaged. However, a previous owner made and installed some pretty hefty skid plates under the engine/trans and fuel tank areas, so I expect this Willys has seen some hard use.

So, my first efforts are simply to get this clunker off the PO's trailer and onto mine, to get it home. I just ordered new 11" drums, a new rear hub, new wheel bearings front and rear, and assorted little parts that were missing, as well as five 15X8 rims (I'm wishing now that I had thought a little more about it and ordered 17" rims, as there are used off-road tires all over the place in that size). I plan to have 33x10.50 tires put on them. Looking forward to getting those installed and the truck loaded onto my trailer next week.

My plan for the wagon, at least initially, is to go through the drive train, bit by bit, and make it solid and reliable, while leaving the body pretty much as it is. I'll have to find decent seats for it, but I plan to leave the body rough, like it is, and start having fun with it. I'll eventually take care of all the rust and replace the glass. Eventually, this Willys will come back to "good condition," but it may be awhile.
 

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Apparently the PO tried loosening the lugs on the driver's side front and rear to remove the wheels to do a brake job. Some previous owner had installed the LEFT HAND STUDS on the driver's side, for those who don't know, it's Left-hand threads on the right side and right-hand threads on the left side...however, this Willys will get right-hand studs all around). The PO tried loosening them with a very big wrench...in the wrong direction. He broke all the studs off the rear, because I found all the broken studs with the nuts still on them on the trailer, but I never found the drum and hub. I found the front hub/drum/wheel, still stuck together, so I took them home to try to separate them. I ended up having to cut off the lug nuts and drive out the studs, which ruined the drum. So, I added another drum and a set of right-hand studs and nuts to my parts order and it's on the way.
 
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Wow, that is a new one for the books with the wheel studs completely on the wrong side. Just having them the right way around is enough to fool many, but at least they only ruin one side then. :D
Well, I'm hoping the right side has the right-hand thread studs/nuts on it, but I haven't checked yet.
 
Well, I learned something today. I jumped the gun a little, when I ordered my new 15X8 rims. Had I thought a little more about it, I would have ordered 17X8 rims. Just about every Jeep or any other SUV type of vehicle for the past 15 years or so has run 17" rims, so there are a ton of tires in the 17" size, whereas 15" is pretty much obsolete. So when I went to order my new tires today, in size 33X10.50 R15, they cost me about $75 more per tire than the same tire in a metric equivalent of 33X10.50R17. That difference would have paid for the rims!

I ordered the 15" rims simply because that is what was stock on the wagon and I have heard some off-roaders say they prefer 15" rims on their rigs, because it gives them more tire and less rim, which equates to more cushion on rocks when aired-down. I don't really plan to spend a ton of time on the highway with my Willys Wagon, but I don't plan to do any heavy rock-crawling either. I'll be fine with the 15" rims and tires, but once I wear these tires out, I think I'll just move up to 17" rims anyway. It will make things easier going forward.
 
I have been considering ways in which I might improve the wagon's drive train to make it stronger and more reliable as an overlander (actually a back country fishing/camping vehicle) without getting out of hand with the budget. I did a search, but came up empty. Has anybody tried swapping out the Dana 25 for a high-pinion Dana 30 from a Jeep XJ? The XJ D30 measures 60.5" and the D25 on the wagon is 59", so that should work. The HP D30 is quite a bit stronger than the D25 and would come with open knuckles, disc brakes, and numerous aftermarket stuff, such as trusses, C gussets, etc. I can buy an entire parts XJ for what I would pay for a disc conversion kit for the D25. Just thinking out loud....I mean on the keyboard.

I think I may be looking down a rabbit hole. This could lead to coil conversions, long-arm 3-4 link conversions, and all sorts of ways to spend money!

 
Going to pick up the Willys Wagon tomorrow! I have new hubs, drums, wheels, and tires for the driver's side and wheels and tires for the passenger side. Once it's on all fours, I can roll it off the previous owner's trailer and onto mine and take it home. I'm pretty excited to see what it looks like sitting on four 33X10.50 tires and sitting at my place! Photos will be forthcoming.
 
Got her on all fours and dropped her off at her new storage place. She'll have to wait a few months before I will be able to do any substantial work on her. She has a AMC 232 installed. Looks like the installation was well done. It's an early 232, so mated to what I believe is the original T90 trans and D18 xfer case. The engine is not seized, so I have high hopes it will start and run without too much work. It has a PTO driven Koenig Iron Works M100 winch, which I think is pretty cool. It looks like the doors are mismatched. I'm pretty sure the passenger side is original, due to the color, but the driver's side has the interior door button, whereas the passenger side looks like it had a handle. Like I said before, it's pretty rough, but nothing I can't handle. Looks great on the new meats! I intend to replace the old springs with 2" lift new units, so the tire clearance should be fine with the 33X10.50-15s. It will also get disc brakes and some other upgrades, a decent interior, but the body will likely look like it does now for the foreseeable future.
 

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Hey! I just looked up the engine code on the right side of the engine and discovered, to my pleasure, that the engine is a AMC 258 (4.2L) made in 1974. Longer stroke, more torque in the lower rpm ranges. I like!
 
Very cool congrats on getting it back.

Good luck with the project, it has a lot of cool features.
 
The XJ front diff is a driver side drop.
I am aware of that, but if I were to use the entire engine, trans, xfer case, and axles, it wouldn't matter. I would get a high-pinion D30 front axle with disc brakes, a 5sp standard trans (or a decent auto), a NP231 xfer case, and a centered rear diff. I would probably end up having to box the frame and fab a 4-link/coil spring suspension. A donor Cherokee can be bought for under $1000, but it would likely need an overhaul on the engine. Like I said, a rabbit hole... I will likely just go with refurbishing the stock running gear and get the AMC 258 running. If I ever decide to start doing serious upgrades, for the money I would probably just go the whole shebang and get some 1 ton axles and make it count.
 
I am aware of that, but if I were to use the entire engine, trans, xfer case, and axles, it wouldn't matter. I would get a high-pinion D30 front axle with disc brakes, a 5sp standard trans (or a decent auto), a NP231 xfer case, and a centered rear diff. I would probably end up having to box the frame and fab a 4-link/coil spring suspension. A donor Cherokee can be bought for under $1000, but it would likely need an overhaul on the engine. Like I said, a rabbit hole... I will likely just go with refurbishing the stock running gear and get the AMC 258 running. If I ever decide to start doing serious upgrades, for the money I would probably just go the whole shebang and get some 1 ton axles and make it count.
Sorry, I thought you just wanted to swap out axles. I have two complete parts XJs and pondered putting the entire drivetrain under my delivery. It would be very reliable and easy to drive, but not very cool....
 
Sorry, I thought you just wanted to swap out axles. I have two complete parts XJs and pondered putting the entire drivetrain under my delivery. It would be very reliable and easy to drive, but not very cool....
I dunno, man. I saw a YouTube video of a fellow who had a wagon at Sema that was done that way. Used the wagon's original frame, made front mounts for coils and shocks and went with the XJ running gear, engine and all. It was pretty cool. It's what got my mind running in that groove.
 
Apparently the PO tried loosening the lugs on the driver's side front and rear to remove the wheels to do a brake job. Some previous owner had installed the LEFT HAND STUDS on the driver's side, for those who don't know, it's Left-hand threads on the right side and right-hand threads on the left side...however, this Willys will get right-hand studs all around). The PO tried loosening them with a very big wrench...in the wrong direction. He broke all the studs off the rear, because I found all the broken studs with the nuts still on them on the trailer, but I never found the drum and hub. I found the front hub/drum/wheel, still stuck together, so I took them home to try to separate them. I ended up having to cut off the lug nuts and drive out the studs, which ruined the drum. So, I added another drum and a set of right-hand studs and nuts to my parts order and it's on the way.
I was rereading this thread when I noticed that there is a bit of "misinformation" in this post. So to keep this straight, Willys had Left Hand Threaded, (LHT), lug nuts & studs on the left side of the rig. The right side is Right Hand Tread, (RHT) lug nuts & studs. Not the other way around as stated here. Even the right hand steering Jeeps in England & Australia had left hand lug nut on the left side of the rigs.

I have dealt with this "issue" for over 50 years now. The older these rigs get the fewer folks who really understand this "issue". Folks seem to get it cross-ways in their minds for some reason. You are not the first, nor will you be the last. No biggie, but we really should get it right for the new folks.

Willys is the culprit for having LHT lug nuts & studs, on the left side of the Jeep, NOT your PO. Look it up, see if I am wrong on this. Dodge, Plymouth, GM & other manufacturers did this as well.

I also would install Right hand threaded nuts & studs all the way around as most folks have no idea that left hand lug nuts ever existed. Since the lug nuts & studs needed replaced anyway, save yourself from broken studs in the future, go RHT all around.
 
I was rereading this thread when I noticed that there is a bit of "misinformation" in this post. So to keep this straight, Willys had Left Hand Threaded, (LHT), lug nuts & studs on the left side of the rig. The right side is Right Hand Tread, (RHT) lug nuts & studs. Not the other way around as stated here. Even the right hand steering Jeeps in England & Australia had left hand lug nut on the left side of the rigs.

I have dealt with this "issue" for over 50 years now. The older these rigs get the fewer folks who really understand this "issue". Folks seem to get it cross-ways in their minds for some reason. You are not the first, nor will you be the last. No biggie, but we really should get it right for the new folks.

Willys is the culprit for having LHT lug nuts & studs, on the left side of the Jeep, NOT your PO. Look it up, see if I am wrong on this. Dodge, Plymouth, GM & other manufacturers did this as well.

I also would install Right hand threaded nuts & studs all the way around as most folks have no idea that left hand lug nuts ever existed. Since the lug nuts & studs needed replaced anyway, save yourself from broken studs in the future, go RHT all around.
Thanks for straightening that out. I read somewhere that right hand threads go on the left and vice-versa. I once had an old Studebaker and the left-hand threads were on the left side, but I figured Willys must have done things differently for some reason . Regardless, the PO broke off most of the left-hand studs, so I replaced the drums and the hubs and installed right-hand studs all around.
 
Thanks for straightening that out. I read somewhere that right hand threads go on the left and vice-versa. I once had an old Studebaker and the left-hand threads were on the left side, but I figured Willys must have done things differently for some reason . Regardless, the PO broke off most of the left-hand studs, so I replaced the drums and the hubs and installed right-hand studs all around.
The left hand thread on the left side was not really random. It was done for a reason that in the end didn’t really matter. The thought was that if you are zipping down the road and locked up the brakes there was fear that quickly going from spinning to stopped might loosen the threads, so they made sure that the torque from this would tend to tighten the nut.

In the end there wasn’t enough torque to cause an issue, so they stopped the nonsense.
 
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