Vintage Don
Well Oiled
So does anyone have any insight on the correct shimming on the Ross gearbox? Can't find anything about it. Where the steering shaft enters the box, tightening the roller bearings.
Dana, my guess is that gadget has an adjustable spring damper inside of it. Hmm yeah _ _ _
Don, I agree with you 100% on the "toe-in" adjustment.
I will try to be brief here, but I have concluded over the years that the bigger-the-tire, the more toe-in required, because big tires like to "plow" down the road. On my '02 Subaru WRX, I don't take my car to any "Alignment" shops. I adjust individually, the tie-rod arms to keep the tire wear even, and if I have the shops do me an "alignment", the tires don't wear even.
It is almost like the young-techies, haven't been mentored on "fine-tuning" but just by-the-book.
As time moves along, more and more O.E.M. "original equipment manufacturers" parts become obsolete. What we then have to choose from is used or aftermarket parts. As I work on older vehicles, it seems that nowadays we have to make slight modifications to aftermarket parts to make them work properly. I have not yet rebuilt a Ross steering box, but in the past did play with the Saginaw PS steering boxes 35-years ago.
Like you, I also thought it was a good idea to rebuild the Ross steering box. New bushings, sector shaft and pitman arm. I got lucky on the bushing/sector shaft mating. The new pitman arm to new sector shaft install was a nightmare.
This is my first Willys project and it has taught me that new isnt always better.
If the original bushings and sector shaft are still in the condition you described in your post, replace the seal and use your original parts.
Question: Are your sector shafts the same diameter?
Do you have radials on the car? If so, what do you set the toe-in to? Are you measuring the rear to the front of the tire for a toe-in calculation? Something like an 1/8 difference?
The guy giving the advice is Moses Ludel, who apparently literally "wrote the book" on Jeep repairs, the so-called Jeep Bible.
https://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topi...-tl-cam-and-lever-steering-gear/#comment-4666
No, those surfaces should be tight together and flush when there are no shims installed - then the shims are used to CREATE that spacing, or gap - in a variable way, to the extent necessary - to preload the bearings.
LOL. Don't touch that dial! Stay tuned. I am sure there is more to follow. If it aint broke...don't fix it! On my Willys "perfect" is defined as "close enough".You guys are making me crazy!! No I am going to have to revisit my steering box, which I though was just fine!