Rosati's '57 Willys Build Thread

Rosati

Bigger Hammer
Feb 21, 2010
46
Willys Model
Willys Year:
New to the forum and thought I'd document my Willys build up.
The truck is titled as a 1957, but I believe the cab is post 1960 based on some of the internet info i have found.
It currently has a Ford inline six with stock trans and t-case, dana 25 front and dana rear.
The PO welded up shadetree header, welded in a datsun rack and pinion and steering column, and welded in a bunch of bad patches.

I bought the following from a 79 Jeep Cherokee for the transplants:
Front and rear leaf springs
Front and rear axles
Brake pedal, booster, and MC.
Power steering box
Steering column

None the less, it's getting redone.
My current plans include:
1. A 1965 289 from a relatives old Mustang
2. Rebuilt stock transmission and transfer case (it already has an advanced adapters kit)
3. Painless wiring
4. Dana 44 front and rear (completely rebuilt with all new timken bearings, richmond R&P, Lock rite lockers,)
5. Cragar Soft 8 Chrome wheels with Swamper TSL radials
6. Paint job

We'll see how it turns out.

Here's the truck as I bought it.

[galleryimage:2jwyjjf6]456[/galleryimage:2jwyjjf6]
 

Pete

Founder/Owner
Staff member
Administrator
Sep 17, 2009
6,545
Hailey, Idaho
First Name
Pete
Willys Model
Wagon
Willys Year:
1960
Looking forward to your progress updates Rosati...

Pete
 

Rosati

Bigger Hammer
Feb 21, 2010
46
Willys Model
Willys Year:
Thanks guys. I appreciate and welcome all comments.
I just finished assembling the rear axle and plan to
work on the front axle tomorrow. I'll post a couple of pics
by the weekend. Here's what I started with ....
[galleryimage:1xcq4zaw]461[/galleryimage:1xcq4zaw]
 

Rosati

Bigger Hammer
Feb 21, 2010
46
Willys Model
Willys Year:
I wanted to get an idea of what it might look like once the new suspension is on and this is what I rendered in MSpaint.
I think the body will sit a bit higher ove rthe tires though.
[galleryimage:1mba3u95]466[/galleryimage:1mba3u95]

So here's what I got done this weekend.
I mounted the tires to the wheels by hand in the garage. They still need to be balanced.
[galleryimage:1mba3u95]467[/galleryimage:1mba3u95]

The axles were complete from the salvage yard, but sat in the dirt for years. The only pieces I didn't replace were the
housings, knuckles, Caliper brackets, spindles, carriers, and shafts which I sandblasted and painted. Everything else has been replaced.
All new Timken bearings, National seals, Wagner brakes, Warn Premium Hubs, and Richmond Lock-Rite Lockers.
[galleryimage:1mba3u95]468[/galleryimage:1mba3u95]
[galleryimage:1mba3u95]469[/galleryimage:1mba3u95]
 

Rosati

Bigger Hammer
Feb 21, 2010
46
Willys Model
Willys Year:
Awe, come on, ain't you ever wanted to save buck or two?
Lots 'o lube and some big pry bars made mounting them easy.
A little brake cleaner and a match blows 'em up really easily too.
(note to self...up the homeowners policy and life insurance!)
 

Old Willy

Bigger Hammer
Jan 1, 2010
170
Wi.
First Name
Bill
Willys Model
Wagon
Willys Year:
1954
GOSH I'm glad you mentioned the brake cleaner and match to seat those tires. I work part time at a local Walmart and the kids that bust tires just made the boss buy a fancy air tank with a nozzle and valve that gives a blast of air to seat the bead. These young idiots have trouble with trailer and ATV tires and whine whenever they have to do them.

I remember working in a gas station back in the '60's and was taught to use gasoline, starting fluid or laquer thinner and a match to seat the bead. When I told this method to the kids at the store they thought I was crazy or lying. You prove my point!!! I also remember that it was some time after I quit that gas station that I was able to grow hair back on my arms from the elbows down!!!!


Thanks for the memory!!
Old Willy
 

Rosati

Bigger Hammer
Feb 21, 2010
46
Willys Model
Willys Year:
I've used those air blasters before....they are dangerous!
We had kids blown backwards because they didn't realize how
much pressure comes out all at once.
They throw the valve and tuimble into the car or a piece of equipment.
We ended up cutting off the swedged end and using it as a potato cannon!
 

BioTex

Sharpest Tool
Nov 15, 2009
224
Alpine, TX
Willys Model
Willys Year:
I use a ratchet strap around the center of the tread. I watch others use flammable liquids, and somehow have never been brave enough.
 

62 OlllO

Well Oiled
Oct 19, 2009
1,821
Georgia
First Name
Kevin
Willys Model
Wagon
Willys Year:
1962
You have done a great job on the axles...nice shine ! You are light years ahead of me and we all enjoy your pictures. Nasty cold spell came to Georgia and it puts a freeze on my projects progress. You might consider a body lift as well, very inexpensive way to lift your truck for those huge tires...and I mean HUGE. I believe you could float that truck on water. Keep posting pictures with the progress and welcome to the forum.
 

Rosati

Bigger Hammer
Feb 21, 2010
46
Willys Model
Willys Year:
Well, here's what I accomplished this week....
These are what the PO did to attach the rear springs.
Front inside and out.
[galleryimage:3kahjmeb]496[/galleryimage:3kahjmeb]
[galleryimage:3kahjmeb]497[/galleryimage:3kahjmeb]

Rear inside and out
[galleryimage:3kahjmeb]498[/galleryimage:3kahjmeb]
[galleryimage:3kahjmeb]499[/galleryimage:3kahjmeb]

The rear shackles weremade of aluminum and were worn through.
I cut all of this out to replace it because my spring hangers will mount under the frame.
 

Rosati

Bigger Hammer
Feb 21, 2010
46
Willys Model
Willys Year:
I cut out the old
[galleryimage:qiketpb4]500[/galleryimage:qiketpb4]

Cut out a patch to fit
[galleryimage:qiketpb4]501[/galleryimage:qiketpb4]

Tacked it in
[galleryimage:qiketpb4]502[/galleryimage:qiketpb4]

Welded and ground smooth
[galleryimage:qiketpb4]503[/galleryimage:qiketpb4]
[galleryimage:qiketpb4]505[/galleryimage:qiketpb4]

And the rear
[galleryimage:qiketpb4]504[/galleryimage:qiketpb4]
 

Rosati

Bigger Hammer
Feb 21, 2010
46
Willys Model
Willys Year:
Then I made a plate to box the frame
[galleryimage:2e6acwir]506[/galleryimage:2e6acwir]
[galleryimage:2e6acwir]507[/galleryimage:2e6acwir]

This is trial fitted for now, i still need to clean up the frame a bit before welding

Next post should include the hangers I am making and a shot of the axle under the truck.
 

62 OlllO

Well Oiled
Oct 19, 2009
1,821
Georgia
First Name
Kevin
Willys Model
Wagon
Willys Year:
1962
The PO sure gave you something to fix right. I can't believe the direction they went and using aluminum...nothing like doing it wrong, wasting time and effort. You weld a bit better than me, because my grinding area is bigger than yours. I found a piece of 4" square 1/4" tube that I'm making my spring perch out of. I enjoy the pic's.
 

JoeB

Gear Grinder
Jan 30, 2010
22
Sandston, Virginia
Willys Model
Willys Year:
K,
Nice job on welding up the frame patch. I'm guessing you are using a 220V MIG, right?
I've got a 110V Hobart 140 Handler. I've got a spot on my frame that could use some attention. While the specs say it will handle up to 3/16", I'm a bit skeptical. Any insights on this? (You're not using a 110V MIG, are you?)

Joe B
(PS: Please don't run me off the Forum, but the Truck here is a '62 FC-170)
 

62 OlllO

Well Oiled
Oct 19, 2009
1,821
Georgia
First Name
Kevin
Willys Model
Wagon
Willys Year:
1962
My experience when welding anything thicker than 3/16" is to grind both areas to be welded, leaving each side at an angle so when together it is "V'd"...you can now weld from the inside out. Your welder should handle it if you can lay a good bead down. I would weld a bead down the center, connecting both pieces, then I would weld a bead on the left of the bead down the center, then weld the third bead down right of center....good luck!
 

Rosati

Bigger Hammer
Feb 21, 2010
46
Willys Model
Willys Year:
Yes, I'm using a Miller Millermatic 211. It runs off 110v or 220v.
I use 110v for sheetmatal and such but have to use the 220v for everything else.

62ollo is right on with his prep work. I leave a small gap between the pieces, grind the
edges at a 45 degree angle to at least the center of the thickness. When I lay a bead,
I try to weave the puddle from side to side a little to melt the edges of the bevel.
By going slower like this, I find I get good penetration. This is really helpful if you
can't get to the backside.
When grinding, I try to keep the wheel as flat as possible until I have about
1/16" of weld left. Then I switch over to an 80 grit flap disc to smooth it over.
I find this keeps me from gouging out the welds.

Also, when patching a frame, you must reinforce it by either boxing or
overlaying a larger piece to tie it all together.
 

JoeB

Gear Grinder
Jan 30, 2010
22
Sandston, Virginia
Willys Model
Willys Year:
Thanks K and Kevin!
K, I can see your beveled edge/leave a gap/flat grind prep method in those great photos! Kevin, good tips on multi pass welding when working near the limits of my equipment.
I'll be sure to box and/or overlay any sections that I patch.

Much appreciation for the inspiring thread. Keep up the good work!

Happy (Eventual) Motoring,
Joe
 
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