Rochester 2 jet

Imposter71

Sharpest Tool
Sep 23, 2009
235
NC Coast
First Name
Tom
Willys Model
  1. Wagon
Willys Year:
  1. 1963
Need some opinions please. My wagon has a mid 60's chevy 283 w a rochester 2 jet. Runs but won't idle consistently - kind of all over the place. Every time I get it smooth & hit the gas it eiter won't idle at all or idles too high. Was talking to one of our delivery drivers that messes w/cars and I happened to mention some play in the throttle linkage. He said possibly the shaft that runs through throught the carb where the butterflies are is worn out and that would definateley cause what I am seeing. I know nothing about carbs and have never rebuilt one.....

I have another old 2 jet from a 71 pontiac Lemans ( 350) in the garage. Throttle linkage on it is nice and tight. Should I:

(1) Gat a friend and a few :beer: 's . Try to clean/rebuild one of them myself and see what happens?

(2) Take them both to a carb shop and see if they can fix one or make one good one out of them both?

(3) Buy a new carb and if so what kind?

(4) do something else I haven't thought of.........

Of course like a lot of you here , time and money(especially $$$) are important factors.

Any info/comments/suggestions are encouraged and appreciated! :?:
 
Imposter,
Here is my two cents. I have rebuilt a few of these, so I feel I can tell you this with confidense.
1. If your throttle shaft bushing is worn, it definitely is a possible cause and you should have the carb rebushed and rebuilt. Roughly about $100.

2. It could just be that the idle circuit is dirty. You could try a cheap fix. Buy a can of carb cleaner. Look at the carb and you will see a number of "small holes". I can't tell you the positon of them...it wouldn't make sense. Anyway, put the straw into these holes and squirt the carb cleaner through. WEAR SAFEY GLASSES! It'll probably shoot back at ya. That's the cheap hopeful fix.

3. If you think you want to rebuild it - do it right, or don't do it at all. This means taking it apart and soaking all pieces (no plastic) in caburator cleaner for at least 12 hours. Than rinse off, blow out and dry, then reassemble per the proper instructions in the kit. Sometimes a kit will fit more than one carb, so you have to know which one you're looking at in the instructions.

Rebuilding a carb is not difficult, but it has been my experience that most folks who have "rebuilt" carbs have not done it correctly and then say they have a piece of junk.

If you're not comfortable with doing it yourself, just take it to a CARBURETOR shop and have them do it. In the end, you'll bolt it on and NOT fret over the $$ you spent on it.
Hope this helps. Let us know which way, and how it all goes for ya.
Steve
 
I agree with Steve,if your carefull you can do it,the only thing I can add is to make to take the number on the tag on a screw on the top plate or youre chances of getting the right kit are slim......good luck Jim
 
Thanks for the input. Plan is to take it off this wknd. I am pretty sure the throttle shaft bushings are worn, but we will see. I can at least clean things up and check it out / compare to the other carb I have like that. It still has the tag on it so I will get that and see what a kit costs. Once I get it off there and get a better look at it I can see if I want to try it myself or not.
 
I agree with everyone else, but just to throw in my .02, before you put too much money and time into it, just remember that you can buy a used 2bbl carburetor for not too much. I've never worked with the Rochester, but I've heard that they're good carburetors, so it's probably worth trying to repair.

I'm not a fan of finicky carburetors like the original Carters. I'd rather have something that I tune once and never touch again, so I put a Holley 2300 on my 226. You do have to use an adapter plate from the 2bbl Rochester size to the large 2bbl Holley 2300 size. The 2300 is a stupidly simple carburetor, the parts are literally everywhere, and you can typically find them used for $50 and just put a $20 kit in them and have a practically new setup.
 
Well, took the carb off. Could definately use a good cleaning. Here is a pic of the linkage, is loose here where the linkage attaches to the shaft ( sorry about the blurry pic)
[galleryimage:smhkmdq6]656[/galleryimage:smhkmdq6]

On this side fuel was seeping out here where the shaft passes through the base of the carb.
[galleryimage:smhkmdq6]657[/galleryimage:smhkmdq6]

My other carb was not exactly the same ( couldn't be THAT lucky) so I took this one to a local shop to be gone through and rebuilt. If I am really going to use this wagon then I guess it won't hurt to invest a little to have it done right. This should eliminate one more variable. Then I will have new tank, lines and filter, and a clean and rebuilt carb. We'll see what happens next when I get it back......

When I walked into the shop they had a beautiful old Willys jeep in there that they were working on. I'll try to get a pic of it if it is still there when I pick the carb up.
 
With the carb on the truck, try opening a propane torch and directing the gas at both ends of the shaft. Iif it idles up, they are worn enough to be a problem. If the idle doesn't change, they wear is not enought to be an issue.
 
Picked the carb up a couple wks ago. They rebuilt, fixed the linkage, and painted it like they do the marine carbs to to help protect it a little. Finally had the time today to put it back on. Of course then I couldn't get it to start. Disconnected my fuel lines and hooked up a small tank, fired right up. So I think I will check /rerun my fuel line with a larger one. ( 3/8?) Need to get my sender hooked up as well if I can figure which wire it is. Should have about 5 gal in my tank but won't know until I fix that.

Here is a pic of the redone carb..[galleryimage:1ta1l5dn]666[/galleryimage:1ta1l5dn]

And here is the jeep they had in there...Looks just as good in person as in the pic.

[galleryimage:1ta1l5dn]667[/galleryimage:1ta1l5dn]
 
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