Replacing Steel Brake Lines

alphlulu

Bigger Hammer
May 13, 2010
122
San Jose, CA
First Name
Ron
Willys Model
  1. Pickup
Willys Year:
As my never ending restoration continues, I am thinking about replacing the steel brake lines on my stock 55 pickup. Not really wanting to go down the path of bending and flaring the lines myself, is anyone aware of someone or someplace that sells prebent/pre flared brake lines?

Also, it appears that there are both standard steel (zinc coated?) and then stainless lines. Any thoughts on whether or not stainless is worth the premium?

Thanks

Ron
 
Hi Ron:
I don't know of a vendor that has pre-made Willys brake line kits but if you look on eBay Motors there are some advertised for other vehicles. You could contact those vendors and ask. Another option would be to remove all the old lines and take them to a brake shop. They could make up new lines to match much faster that you or I could. You might find that it's not all that expensive. The problem with stainless steel is that it is harder to work with than mild steel. Unless you are going to drive on salted roads, the plain steel ones should last for decades. The only time I've had a steel brake line fail in over 50 years of driving was on a Pontiac that was exposed to many years of winter driving on Wisconsin roads. If you do find a vendor with a ready made kit, please post the info. Good luck.

Denny Napier
Roseburg OR
 
homewood4 said:
http://www.classictube.com/products_clubflyer.asp

Been looking for same thing for a 54 PU.
I contacted these guys. If you send them your lines they will computer match and return....Something like $225 for stainless.
Still looking as I think I can find local for less.

Please let me know what you do...Thanks

Hope that helps...
Ron & Greg, check out the web sites: http://www.kaiserwillys.com/product/172 ... ccessories

http://www.northstarwillys.com/willys_cat/brakes.htm
 
Looks like Walcks is providing preformed line sets. Purchased one over the weekend for my 55 pickup.
 
alphlulu said:
Looks like Walcks is providing preformed line sets. Purchased one over the weekend for my 55 pickup.

I would like to hear what you think of the lines after you get a chance to install them. I have a feeling some other folks might just be interested as well.
 
Gave up looking for prevent. Bought lines at napa and bent myself. Standard lengths so added some bends to shorten where necessary. Added unions to two pieces to get lengths where necessary. Not OEM 100% matching bends, routing or color (green coating) but not going for 100 point restoration either. Just want to stop when I want to.
 
I gave up on the search for pre-bent lines on my wagon. Not to mention I did some conversions/upgrades on the front and rear axles. I bought a 25' coil and started bending and routing for my liking. Also did the fuel line the same way. I admit I am not the "flare master" so I am still waiting on a buddy to come over and finish up the flaring and unions to the master cylinder. Wives, Kids, Work, Life....... Has slowed that process down, but it will get done.


Eric

Not to mention the coil of stainless line was actually pretty reasonible on cost.
 
Hey Ron-

Just checked out your gallery images, very nice! Love the color...

Pete
 
Ditto on the pre-flared, pre-cut lengths of the green coated line. Used one coupling from front to rear and the rest were easy to do. I had a little extra near the front and just looped them around a coke bottle and it workes fine. I didn't trust my lack of skills on this crucial peice. Nothing else really matters if the Willys don't stop.
 
Bending brake/fuel lines can be done by all with a short time of practice...the same goes for flaring and double flaring...and it isn't that expensive compared to pre-bent...of course if your trying to "be original"...my view is who really knows what original is? The line worker took what was on the shelf and many times nothing was the same, but he made it work because Willys couldn't afford to re-stock the shelves. That's why you see sometimes two different (correct) answers to some questions here on the forum.
Regarding failure to these lines...yes...brake fluid can get very corrosive inside the old lines, not to mention moisture...then there is the old fittings that have used up their life cycle. I like knowing that the brakes work correctly and I can stop. My parts house said that the silver lines are being weeded out for the green coated POR15 lines....mmmm, maybe moisture is a problem on the exterior as well....sparay it all gloss black and happy motoring.
Good luck and stay safe.
 
Walking around the shop and saw this bussiness looking card...from Phoenix Systems... stripdip.com
It has a test strip you dip into your brake fluid to see if it needs changing based in accordance with Map-UICSt guidelines....whatever...I'm no rocket scientist and can hardly spell these big words...
Anyway it test the Copper Alpha Reaction in the fluid ( as the card says) which is what eats the lines and plunger seal....you be the judge, just passing info...I'm not a mechanic....ok a shade tree mechanic with a tree with no leaves.
 
I've been hand bending my own brake and fuel lines for over 35 years with no problems. In fact, I never owned a bending tool until I got one at a yard sale last year. I bent up a fuel line for my Studebaker using the tool and kinked it a couple times. Bought another line--bent it by hand --and it came out good.

I've never been any good at doing the double flare so I buy the premade line sections. If you try to flare your own, look VERY close at the flare for any signs of cracks. The slightest crack on that second fold will guarantee a leaker!!!

I'm really sold on the Silicone brake fluid and use it in all my old cars and motorcycles. I first tried it back in the '80's on my '46 Dodge pickup. Before Silicone I would be rebuilding or replacing the wheel cylinders and master cylinder about every 3 years. Two years ago, I checked all the brakes on the Dodge and everything looked like new!!! The Silicone fluid was in that truck over 20 years. I did flush it and rebleed it all. The Silicone fluid REPELS moisture where standard Dot 3 fluid ABSORBS moisture.

Cheers,
Old Willy
 
Wanted to give you guys an update, as I did the replacement yesterday.

Bought the line replacement kit from Walcks. I have to say the packaging and labeling was first rate. Each of the lines was clearly marked with a tag, ie, right wheel front, etc. And where you had to bend the line to strighten it, there were 2 tags each labeled that stated to bend straighten between them.

The end of each threaded nut was capped with a blue plastic cover, which was there to keep the line clean, but a bit of a pain to take off, especially once you get brake fuid on your hands :) .

I started in the rear and worked forward. The rear axle line was pretty much spot on, you could do yourself a favor and buy one of those brake line pliers, which allow for small tweaks if you will. I also replaced the rubber hoses (3) total, the holding clips for each of the hoses into the respective frame mount, and also the line/frame clips - all of which I got from Walcks.

It got a little tricky with the main front line, which wraps around the front of the truck frame - its basically a big U. i did i from underneath and up and it took a while to get it just right.

There are 2 brass junctions on the truck. The rear one is something that can be replaced for not a lot of $. The front one, which has the larger main line feeding it and then splitting into 2 small diameter lines is not easy to find. So I took it off, and cleaned it up with my wire wheel part of the bench grinder. By the way, that wire wheel does wonders and has seen tremendous use all during the restoration.

All of the clips along the frame and front were replaced with new, which cleaned it up and kept the new lines in place.

The pain came when I was hooking up the left front wheel/drivers side, to the master cylinder. The bend was slightly off and I just couldnt get it to fit properly. I also replaced the main bolt that does into the master cylinder, 2 copper washers and rear brake switch from the master. Keeping that bolt loose so that the Y brass junction would move, where the lines go, made it easier. And note that Y union, that has the right diameter holes isnt easy too find either. Not sure where I got my replacement from, but it didnt fit the lines. So cleaned up the one I had on the wire wheel and good to go.

When you do this, dont tighten up the lines until last, you want the movement to allow for proper overall alignment/fit without undue stress. Going back through the system to check and tighten, once your finished, front to rear, is the way to go. Also, I would recomend a brake line wrench to tighten/loosen the threads, I have a S&K set, they worked great (for the rubber hose ends also).

I pressure bled the system last, drivers rear wheel first, and then worked my way forward following the brake line routing. Having invested years back in a pressure bleeder, its a tank that has a bladder in it which you pour fluid in, add compressed air into, and then theres a hose fitting that screws into the master cyclinder (replaces the cap), makes the bleeding easy and provides a solid pedal first time through.

Anyhow, the final verdict is that after almost 60 years, the replacement was due. It gave me an even more confident feeling about the truck, cleaned up the bottom great, and the whole task took atbout 4 hours. The line kit from Walcks was first rate. :thumbup:
 
I am in the middle of replacing my brake lines. Your post was very helpful, thanks for the information. Jim1950
 
I can't seem to find the info I need with a search. I am replacing my brake lines on my 56 truck.....actually the whole brake system. What size lines should I use? 3/16" or 1/4". The fittings on my Wilwood dual master cylinder kit from R&P 4wd and the wheel cylinders are all threaded to 3/8" x 24 thread, so this lends itself to using 3/16" line as the fittings for that line all share this same thread pattern. I am not sure if the diameter of the line affects pedal feel or brake performance like different diameters of master cylinders do? Thanks for any advice.
 
I surprised no one has mentioned stainless steel lines. I used it on my 58 and intend to use it again. It's a little hard to flair, but you can bend it by hand at it doesn't kink when you do.
 
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