Replacing clutch in ‘54 Aero Lark

paulnuss

Gear Grinder
Oct 27, 2021
6
Martinsburg, PA
First Name
Pau;
Willys Model
  1. Aero
Willys Year:
  1. 1954
I feel a need to replace a very grabby clutch in my 54 Aero Lark, which also seems to have a rear main crankshaft oil seal leak, possibly the cause of the clutch problem. So far, drive shaft, crossmember under tranny, and transmission itself unhooked and removed okay. The bolts around the top of the bellhousing are nearly inaccessible with wrenches I have. It occurred to me the bellhousing may have been attached to engine when new, and installed as a unit. Is that the way it was done? Must I remove engine to do this? engine to do this job?
 

MarkH

Bigger Hammer
Mar 5, 2018
113
Illinois
First Name
Mark
Willys Model
  1. Aero
Willys Year:
  1. 1954
I think you're right about the engine/trans installed as a unit. Haven't read the manual for just servicing the clutch but likely there's instructions for doing it without pulling the engine. I do remember instructions for removing the unit includes what you've already disconnected, plus removing engine crossmember to frame bolts so the unit rests on a dolly, lifting the front of the car by it's bumper & rolling the unit forward. There's instructions & a diagram on making the dolly. Sounds like you don't have a service manual, regularly seen on ebay. This reprint turned up in a quick searck. https://www.ebay.com/itm/162553532783?_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item25d8f2116f:g:gXIAAOxyAs9SQhB1&amdata=enc:AQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSLY2M1Gjmuwt9c03vWNfiRpUQoWIGjX3XpuklRDVxJzOFTOt%2Fkwk8drbuG69DtdfbUBh94OC2llbxMu4K3RXn%2BnBdDhvYwl5rHHBQKrfNYG9tlcvbi3LhtqbO9jhfdaAnmd5ar2SucAxTGDY0CGxp9cgeF%2FhO5ZtjnqhXcxgWuDbuVOR7wJZe5UmAOrWwKFUQEExDJMCS1J88qA11Mn2eTqKt8z4jwx4p8yi%2FG4UeCighXVdILpiiY2eQ9ga0Eizoc5a%2BX1L1asM1jCGLrEZZ%2B6gtFEszmpEmMnrmrkcueS8j1Ua3L7ahIAmFcKa9I8QQDaueLRSLd1tMBcNQZPD8Hl6twMuUPK84b4qys7w2E5J3lNrlQwcp2Yw2aOTHtZeTZA5Zbijtcfk99HxDeW%2B2UvsgLIhqA03HNRGuGEtUXaYjn95faV9PCY%2B7gpDlvV%2FEUQXg4cj08UttWphi46gxcvCu843lci5INsOfntvZ1JsX3n5VaXQE5XTSG%2BsoqMeyY24ckr5dc4GhUI7LFJXMbcjQ2gEE1%2BoO7S2i4oGRxklVs0VGET6IMt3PLdOF4CPmMxvtIXvC1kX8S7Y0bCT3sU4%2FAqDRXZS4spHFrACP3ztbi4D3lpNAAFz66T5Dl22wgz5RdmGECblnrQmMNtdnfpP%2BFaXBMlLvoOsDn7WtFxmTKvq1aECmLznZiSwGmHbrf6GjRboasvEerIG9ag4AG%2FUPCR6Oy8q2QpkAoGAWQr2AjbOqhotJFEWnFcuIz%2B9BAoweJl9Pfbz0zwnG89RYsXXhMKTUduI5nv74wQYfF1DwUi52Ztgjt50mpsq98WXfty0RMVYG47NoJTHjssZ6eA%3D%3D|clp:2334524|tkp:BFBM6ofJ9r5f

The rear main seal is rope, Best Gasket makes a "graphtite" rope for the rear main. I don't care for it. Best if you can scrounge up an OEM type NOS asbestos rope, or try to get one of these from Brazil. The Brazilians made different versions of this engine into the 70's & seem to have done enough research to make a good non asbestos rope.
 

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paulnuss

Gear Grinder
Oct 27, 2021
6
Martinsburg, PA
First Name
Pau;
Willys Model
  1. Aero
Willys Year:
  1. 1954
Thanks for the tip on the reproduction manual, I ordered it today. I should have thought of that... I'll try for an asbestos old stock rear main seal, or a Brazilian one, don't know what the odds are.
 
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