Rebuild front axle Part 2 (renamed) was "Cleaning" thread

Vintage Don

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Indeed! But I like this setup even better than getting such a deal for myself - HE buys it, HE gets to store it (it takes up some room! And weighs about 300 lbs) - and then when I need a brake drum turned, HE'S got it.....
 

Sprint 6

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That lathe may be old, but mine was new around 1959 and is still in daily use. That one looks to be the same as mine, a model 3000 with a rotor kit installed in the '70's, making it effectively a Model 4000. Aamco came out with this design about 1957, and the Model 4000 is still available new, to the tune of over $5K! Any part you need for that lathe is available from Aamco, the parts from the current models interchange with ones that are 60 years old.
 

Vintage Don

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It's a neat machine. Really well built. We've got the rear belt cover too, but it has some wear on it's pivot shaft and so the lower pulley hits when it's running. We'll figure out a fix for that too eventually.
 

indian301

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You should invest in a rubber belt to wrap around the brake drum while it is cutting to dampen the vibration and you will get a smoother surface for the brake shoes.



Dave
 

Vintage Don

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We got those two front drums turned finally last evening. They are certainly not "like new" but I think we can put them on and get some use out of them. There is definitely some pitting, and in fact pitting is a bit worse on the portion of the surface that doesn't show in the photo, but again - they're going on.

I had sandblasted and cleaned up the backing plates, and ordered all the brake bits from Walcks a couple days ago. Today, hope to squirt some paint on the backing plates and start assembling them.

I also had one stud broken off on the Left Handed side, and we used a de-swaging tool and cut around that and got it out. You can see the replacement stud sticking up a bit in the closest drum. I'll pull that into place today, too.




 

Vintage Don

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I spoke too soon. This ain't over yet....

Yesterday, I started to install the backing plates, they're all pretty now. But when I started to actually torque down the 6 bolts that holds on the drivers side, I was "not-so-delighted" to discover that I couldn't torque a couple of them - they wanted to spin when I started getting fairly tight. Popped off the spindle, and sure enough, some of the threads in the knuckle are in pretty crummy shape. I had cleaned everything of course, and ran a thread-chaser through everything. But this was the first time I had tried applying real torque.

I thought about it all for a while.....

So, off with the knuckles one more time - I'm going to have to remove the grease seals, the tie rods, the pivot bearings, etc and pull that knuckle back off, and helicoil repair those holes that won't hold a bolt tight. And I'll check the other side too, of course.

This is called going backwards. Again. Sigh..... then I can reassemble everything.

Does anyone have a spec for how tight to torque these bolts? I was figuring 40-45 ft-lbs.

I did buy a set of 12 new bolts, Grade 5 (because I couldn't find Grade 8 anywhere). Grade 5 seems like plenty though, has to be tougher than the originals I would think.

 

Vintage Don

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Hahahaha, great answer! We'll get 'er done, eventually. I keep telling myself - "this is just another chance to extend the journey, instead of hurrying to the destination." (It even almost works!)

Any opinion on a torque spec on those bolts?
 
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Vintage Don

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Ok, maybe that's part of why they strip! They are 3/8-24 (fine). But I was nowhere near that amount of torque yet when they spun. Hadn't even compressed the split washer.
 
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I would drill the holes to accept the T head studs used starting in the '60's. Those bolts strip easy, being fine thread they don't have a lot of thread root depth in cast iron. The OE's switched to studs for strength.
 

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I would drill the holes to accept the T head studs used starting in the '60's. Those bolts strip easy, being fine thread they don't have a lot of thread root depth in cast iron. The OE's switched to studs for strength.
Don,
Just went through this same issue and I’d advise that you don’t waste your time or money on the Helicoil inserts. The knuckle housing castings are just too hard to thread w/ the Tap that comes from Helicoil. I’m going to install studs, at least in the holes that have damaged threads, if not all 6.
But I hope that someone that has done this can come up w/ the “Dorman” P/N for the appropriate stud. I realize that they may be available from your friendly local Jeep dealer, but I would think that Dorman makes and distributes same and then they would be available from NAPA or other local parts houses.
Mark L
 

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I also had one stud broken off on the Left Handed side, and we used a de-swaging tool and cut around that and got it out. You can see the replacement stud sticking up a bit in the closest drum. I'll pull that into place today, too.


Don, when I rebuilt the brakes on my Willys and went to the "big" brakes off a Wagoneer, I also replaced all the studs in all 4 drums with new ones. I thought of it as cheep insurance after all it was 35 years old when I got it and who knows how many times they had been over torqued in those years.

I was tired of people breaking or stripping the threads on the left hand thread studs so every time I got a new Willys I changed all the studs as soon as I got it home. It also cuts down on the number of parts you need.
 

Vintage Don

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Gents, I've had good success with getting the Helicoil repairs done (I used Stanley brand, no problem getting the tap to go through the knuckle holes), and all the bolts are taking full torque now. Got the time today to do those repairs, and then of course had to clean everything back up real good from drilling and tapping chips - and it's all back together. All assembled and torqued down. Thread sealer on the (new) bolts through the backing plates and hubs and into the repaired knuckle housings. All readjusted and ready to go.

I mocked things up the rest of the way out to the hubs, a first to get it that far. All that is lacking now is to assemble the brakes - shoes and springs - and install the new wheel bearings and set them up. And the grease seals. That'll be tomorrow's effort.

 
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