Re-wire tips?
- Thread starter JohnMc
- Start date
One wire at a time! Loosely route them through hangers and only zip tie them when all are in place. Keep track of the colors you use and create your own schematic. Solder connectors, heat shrink exposures and have fun!
Thank you, will do.
pav1
Precision Fit
Are you using a reproduction harness or a generic aftermarket?
Are you running 12v or 6V?
Are you running 12v or 6V?
It is a specific reproduction harness at 6 volts negative ground.
Use good tools for the connections. Crappy tools and workmanship will come back later to bite you later
Always do, all connections, when necessary, are properly soldered and heat shrunk. No crimpers allowed!
Thank you again for the tip.
pav1
Precision Fit
Try to find pics of how the original harness is run so you can place the wires in the same location.
Run and just lay the wires in place before you hook up any connections. You will want to 'hide' any slack in the harness so it will appear to be a clean installation.
'No angles'.....what I mean is a when the wire is parallel and perpendicular with all 90 degree turns it will appear much cleaner. (I've attached a pic to demonstrate what I mean)
Last but not least make sure each load (lights, heater motor, etc....) are fused. I'm not sure if the reproduction harness has fuses.
And lastly maybe a fusible link at the battery for protection.
WOW, that’s what I call clean. ThanksTry to find pics of how the original harness is run so you can place the wires in the same location.
Run and just lay the wires in place before you hook up any connections. You will want to 'hide' any slack in the harness so it will appear to be a clean installation.
'No angles'.....what I mean is a when the wire is parallel and perpendicular with all 90 degree turns it will appear much cleaner. (I've attached a pic to demonstrate what I mean)
Last but not least make sure each load (lights, heater motor, etc....) are fused. I'm not sure if the reproduction harness has fuses.
And lastly maybe a fusible link at the battery for protection.
Tralehead
Well Oiled
If you're considering a fusible link for the battery, take a look at the Blue Sea MRBF set-up, very compact. Just make sure you "size" it to your starter draw.
On solder vs crimp: While a solder connection can be superior to crimp in strength, I've yet to see any verifiable evidence it less resistant to a properly done crimp conversion. And solder is still susceptible to corrosion, so all connections need to be treated. My preference is Boeshield T-9
boeshield.com
As for crimp connections, it's faster and more convenient than solder any day. But it must be done properly with the proper tools and connectors. That chit that's sold at you local auto parts store (napa included) isn't worth the cardboard packaging it comes in.
Double crimp connections are the only way to go, and I might argue their strength is up there with solder. (if you have a significant amount of stress on a particular connection, you must use a separate strain relief system) You'll need the proper tool:
www.ancorproducts.com
And use the proper "double barrel" connectors. If you're considering using heat shrink, do it all at once:
www.ancorproducts.com
I've used the above in some pretty rigorous environments, including mastheads, with great success. And trust me, you don't want to "go aloft" for a re-do! (fwiw, my labor rate doubles the second I climb into my boatswains chair)
Last but not least an issue that tends to be overlooked: Stripping (and no, I'm not talking about a folded 2 dolla bill in the garter belt type). It really is important to not cut or nick the inner conductors on stranded wire, so again take care and use the proper tools (one of my favorites):
www.ancorproducts.com
Good luck to all on your wiring projects!
And @pav1 ; want a job?
On solder vs crimp: While a solder connection can be superior to crimp in strength, I've yet to see any verifiable evidence it less resistant to a properly done crimp conversion. And solder is still susceptible to corrosion, so all connections need to be treated. My preference is Boeshield T-9
Boeshield T-9 | Rust Protection & Waterproof Lubricant
Shield your gear from rust and corrosion with Boeshield T-9®, the ultimate waterproof lubricant for bikes, boats, tools, and more.
boeshield.com
As for crimp connections, it's faster and more convenient than solder any day. But it must be done properly with the proper tools and connectors. That chit that's sold at you local auto parts store (napa included) isn't worth the cardboard packaging it comes in.
Double crimp connections are the only way to go, and I might argue their strength is up there with solder. (if you have a significant amount of stress on a particular connection, you must use a separate strain relief system) You'll need the proper tool:
Ancor
For over 40 years, Ancor has been the market leader in Marine Grade® wire and wire management tools. All of our products are built for the harsh marine environment and conform to industry standards.
www.ancorproducts.com
Ancor
For over 40 years, Ancor has been the market leader in Marine Grade® wire and wire management tools. All of our products are built for the harsh marine environment and conform to industry standards.
www.ancorproducts.com
Last but not least an issue that tends to be overlooked: Stripping (and no, I'm not talking about a folded 2 dolla bill in the garter belt type). It really is important to not cut or nick the inner conductors on stranded wire, so again take care and use the proper tools (one of my favorites):
Ancor
For over 40 years, Ancor has been the market leader in Marine Grade® wire and wire management tools. All of our products are built for the harsh marine environment and conform to industry standards.
www.ancorproducts.com
Good luck to all on your wiring projects!
And @pav1 ; want a job?
Ditto on the crimping. I do aircraft design of avionics systems. We never solder when possible. Crimps properly done and with correct tools are actually superior to solder (with exceptions) especially for the small gauge wires (12 and smaller).If you're considering a fusible link for the battery, take a look at the Blue Sea MRBF set-up, very compact. Just make sure you "size" it to your starter draw.
On solder vs crimp: While a solder connection can be superior to crimp in strength, I've yet to see any verifiable evidence it less resistant to a properly done crimp conversion. And solder is still susceptible to corrosion, so all connections need to be treated. My preference is Boeshield T-9
Boeshield T-9 | Rust Protection & Waterproof Lubricant
Shield your gear from rust and corrosion with Boeshield T-9®, the ultimate waterproof lubricant for bikes, boats, tools, and more.
As for crimp connections, it's faster and more convenient than solder any day. But it must be done properly with the proper tools and connectors. That chit that's sold at you local auto parts store (napa included) isn't worth the cardboard packaging it comes in.
Double crimp connections are the only way to go, and I might argue their strength is up there with solder. (if you have a significant amount of stress on a particular connection, you must use a separate strain relief system) You'll need the proper tool:
And use the proper "double barrel" connectors. If you're considering using heat shrink, do it all at once:Ancor
For over 40 years, Ancor has been the market leader in Marine Grade® wire and wire management tools. All of our products are built for the harsh marine environment and conform to industry standards.
I've used the above in some pretty rigorous environments, including mastheads, with great success. And trust me, you don't want to "go aloft" for a re-do! (fwiw, my labor rate doubles the second I climb into my boatswains chair)Ancor
For over 40 years, Ancor has been the market leader in Marine Grade® wire and wire management tools. All of our products are built for the harsh marine environment and conform to industry standards.
Last but not least an issue that tends to be overlooked: Stripping (and no, I'm not talking about a folded 2 dolla bill in the garter belt type). It really is important to not cut or nick the inner conductors on stranded wire, so again take care and use the proper tools (one of my favorites):
Ancor
For over 40 years, Ancor has been the market leader in Marine Grade® wire and wire management tools. All of our products are built for the harsh marine environment and conform to industry standards.
Good luck to all on your wiring projects!
And @pav1 ; want a job?
And dead on the money about strippers (at least in the wire part) from an aircraft perspective out of a typical 19 strand plated copper only 1 minor blemish is acceptable. Choose wisely
Bitz
pav1
Precision Fit
I was always told not to solder wires in a vehicle. With the vibrations, it is better to crimp.
Hmmm, this whole crimping about solder is very interesting. Perhaps, it’s just a feel I have for the solder and heat shrink. I like the knowledge of a moisture proof heat shrink, but all of your input is appreciated.
I come from a salt water marine world where soldering was required. The trick is not overheating the wire where the solder wicks up the wire and makes it stiff/brittle. The connections would eventually corrode and lose continuity if just crimped. We did experiment with some crimp connectors that were pre-loaded with heat shrink that had a sealer inside it. I wasn't around them long enough to say how well they lasted.
I think just crimping is fine on a car, if the connection will not see road splashing. Here in the midwest we use so much road chemical that anything that gets splashed will corrode quickly. YRMV
I think just crimping is fine on a car, if the connection will not see road splashing. Here in the midwest we use so much road chemical that anything that gets splashed will corrode quickly. YRMV
I've never seen an OEM wiring that was soldered. I used to solder everything. Now I realize there is bargain store crimp fitting and OEM fittings. There are also cheap crimpers and quality tools.
So sometimes I solder, sometimes I crimp and I always use heat shrink insulation.
For a period of time I was assigned to the Navy Littoral Combat Ship (LCS) electronics integration of various system (the wiring interconnect). While it was all done in the middle of the ship, it was all crimped connections at the black boxes. But am guessing if direct salt spray etc was present they had many other bigger issues at that point. Not that salt spray isn’t a concern. It is even on aircraft. Especially Navy/Marine near or on the ocean. But all still use crimps in most cases.
I've used lots of heat shrink around crimp connections and put a little silicone sealant towards the ends and it kinda oozes out when you shrink the tube.
As with everything a little goes a long way and on super small wires you can just put silicone on the wire and it does the trick the same.
As with everything a little goes a long way and on super small wires you can just put silicone on the wire and it does the trick the same.
Tralehead
Well Oiled
After a lifetime working on boats I've come to the conclusion that solder doesn't last any longer in a marine environment than quality crimp connections properly treated and protected. And while I would still solder butt connections and larger battery cable terminals for perceived durability, using a quality adhesive lined heat shrink tubing adds not only protection from water but also strength.
www.ancorproducts.com
The real point of corrosion usually happens where the connector is attached to the terminal. This is where the T-9 is crucial. A quick squirt on all those points will save many headaches! (exception: on battery terminals use the red acid proof gel) And if you decide not to use heatshrink, do still use the T-9; it capillaries up into the wire then dries to a waxy corrosion resistant coating on all the strands in the wire.
And while we're on "strands" the more the better in mobile environments. A quality wire like Anchor will not only be more supple, but the strands will be tin coated for added corrosion resistance. FWIW, I prefer welding cable over battery cable...
All of the items I've listed in this thread are of the highest quality and most modern design. They've come a long way from the crimped connectors on your original Willys' wiring and even those are better than the crap sold today at auto parts stores! I'm not trying to convince anyone about soldering, just offering up IMHO a better, easier and faster way to wire your Willys. (Please note I did NOT use "cheaper"... )
Ancor
For over 40 years, Ancor has been the market leader in Marine Grade® wire and wire management tools. All of our products are built for the harsh marine environment and conform to industry standards.
www.ancorproducts.com
And while we're on "strands" the more the better in mobile environments. A quality wire like Anchor will not only be more supple, but the strands will be tin coated for added corrosion resistance. FWIW, I prefer welding cable over battery cable...
All of the items I've listed in this thread are of the highest quality and most modern design. They've come a long way from the crimped connectors on your original Willys' wiring and even those are better than the crap sold today at auto parts stores! I'm not trying to convince anyone about soldering, just offering up IMHO a better, easier and faster way to wire your Willys. (Please note I did NOT use "cheaper"...
)