Project "My Old '55"

JABJEEP said:
Folowing up on the triangular braces, I've narrowed down my choices in hitches to one of three options, all based on the 2" reciever style.

I could use one of these period correct monstrousities with a reciever welded to it. I know some would be excited to see that diamond plate being put to good use!
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Another option would be to simply buy the same kit I bought for the wagon. I didn't double check, but I think it would be long enough to fit the frame rails of the truck.
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And, what I'm leaning toward at the moment, build one similar to what Randy @Harveydavidson did;
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Unlike my wagon project, there's no deadline on this, so buying a kit is the last option, but the easy way out. I'm torn between the heavy diamond plate adaptation and the custom fabbed hitch from scratch. One advantage with the diamond plate version is that the extra weight back there would help with plowing, but I may stick to plowing with the wagon if it performs better (not a high bar to reach) than the truck did. I'm not really sure what the intended purpose of the truck will be when I'm done. Like some other projects here on the forum, I've found that due to "life changes" my use of these jeep vehicles has changed from the original intent. I guess all this is to ask for input on things I may be overlooking. Heck, I haven't even decided yet whether I'm staying with 6 volts or going to 12!
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I would go with the second option first and the third option a close second. I like diamond plate but that seems a bit over kill.
 
WA7OPY said:
Jeff here is what i done on the back of the vj-2 for a hitch mount and the gas tank ...Phil View attachment 207352
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I forgot to add... the tube is 3x3 ,375 wall and is welded to 1/2 x 4 fb 8 inch's long and welded under frame so the stock bumper fits, will weld the hitch tube on after I make the bumper mounts so the tube does not stick out to far...Phil
 
No need for the brace at all. Class 3, 2" receivers are usually made from SHS, Square Hollow Section, in 2.5"x3/16" wall or 3"x1/8" wall here. Some bracing around where the hitch receiver is for left to right stability.
 
These springs are a breeze compared to the set I made for the wagon. The simple built-in clips realy simpifly assembly. It's like I've been here before, with my pipe vise and wire wheel under the shade tree.
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The rear on the broken originals had a leaf removed years ago, but the good donors had all 10 leafs. The fronts share a lot of leafs, including the main leaf and military wrap, with the MB, CJs, and wagons. Willys didn't change too much even between models. After prepping all the leaves they all get a coat of rust converter and rustoleum. Some folks would say it's a waste, but I figure that in addition to filling any pitting with paint to slow future corrosion, the paint also works with the lubricant as it gradually wears off. It's (painting each leaf and using the graphite paste) worked for me for years.
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I also got the frame painted with POR15.
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This thing is a beast! I think it's close to a Dana 60 in how massive it is. It's certainly more massive than the Dana 53 that came with the donor truck. I cobbled up some supports to hold it while I figure out how to get it apart and check on the condition. I can't use my normal differential stands because it splits in half.
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Hmmmmm, so that's why the parking brake never worked. The equalizer is missing from both sides. I see the shoes are separating from the metal backing too. Luckily I have a couple of "parts" Timkens. I'll probably have to buy new shoes, but I think I have all the other little doo-dads I'll need between the parts axles.
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Well look at that! Glyptal! The wear pattern on the teeth looks good, as do the bearings, and it didn't seem to leak too much. The wheel bearings and seals seem good too. I'll look closer, but I may install all new seals and call it day. Even the axle tubes are clean and free of grease. This thing seems to be in great shape!
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I removed the snap ring from the front pinion bearing, the bearing that's no longer available, and tried to pull the pinion out using the fine threads on the pinion nut. I pulled as hard as I dared, and then a little more and it wouldn't budge. After doing some research, including Vintage Dons thread https://www.oldwillysforum.com/foru...ge-don-and-a-1948-willys-pickup.18442/page-20 I decided to leave it alone for now. I'll get all new seals, but installing new bearings where there's minimal, if any, visible wear, might be asking for trouble in this situation. We'll see after I do a little more cleaning and checking. The wheel bearings look good too. This is not a situation I usually find myself in. I usually replace all the bearings and seals and often the gears as well.
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As far as re-assembly, I did note that the gasket maintains a dimension that could be critical, so I measured it; 0.004" thick. I posted that in case I lose my notes. This is a "simple" spirol bevel gear, not a hypoid gear, so some of the rules are different, and the manual basically indicates that if something isn't right, I'm screwed, so this is one of those situations where I might just re-seal it and go. It's in great shape and if I keep it clean and full of gear oil it should outlive me and the next caretaker.
 
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JABJEEP said:
These springs are a breeze compared to the set I made for the wagon. The simple built-in clips realy simpifly assembly. It's like I've been here before, with my pipe vise and wire wheel under the shade tree.
View attachment 207520

The rear on the broken originals had a leaf removed years ago, but the good donors had all 11 leafs. The fronts share a lot of leafs, including the main leaf and military wrap, with the MB, CJs, and wagons. Willys didn't change too much even between models. After prepping all the leaves they all get a coat of rust converter and rustoleum. Some folks would say it's a waste, but I figure that in addition to filling any pitting with paint to slow future corrosion, the paint also works with the lubricant as it gradually wears off. It's (painting each leaf and using the graphite paste) worked for me for years. I also got the frame painted with POR15.
View attachment 207521

This thing is a beast! I think it's close to a Dana 60 in how massive it is. It's certainly more massive than the Dana 53 that came with the donor truck. I cobbled up some supports to hold it while I figure out how to get it apart and check on the condition. I can't use my normal differential stands because it splits in half.
View attachment 207522

Hmmmmm, so that's why the parking brake never worked. The equalizer is missing from both sides. I see the shoes are separating from the metal backing too. Luckily I have a couple of "parts" Timkens. I'll probably have to buy new shoes, but I think I have all the other little doo-dads I'll need between the parts axles.
View attachment 207523


Well look at that! Glyptal! The wear pattern on the teeth looks good, as do the bearings, and it didn't seem to leak too much. The wheel bearings and seals seem good too. I'll look closer, but I may install all new seals and call it day. Even the axle tubes are clean and free of grease. This thing seems to be in great shape!
View attachment 207524


I removed the snap ring from the front pinion bearing, the bearing that's no longer available, and tried to pull the pinion out using the fine threads on the pinion nut. I pulled as hard as I dared, and then a little more and it wouldn't budge. After doing some research, including Vintage Dons thread https://www.oldwillysforum.com/foru...ge-don-and-a-1948-willys-pickup.18442/page-20 I decided to leave it alone for now. I'll get all new seals, but installing new bearings where there's minimal, if any, visible wear, might be asking for trouble in this situation. We'll see after I do a little more cleaning and checking. The wheel bearings look good too. This is not a situation I usually find myself in. I usually replace all the bearings and seals and often the gears as well.
View attachment 207525

As far as re-assembly, I did note that the gasket maintains a dimension that could be critical, so I measured it; 0.004" thick. I posted that in case I lose my notes. This is a "simple" spirol bevel gear, not a hypoid gear, so some of the rules are different, and the manual basically indicates that if something isn't right, I'm screwed, so this is one of those situations where I might just re-seal it and go. It's in great shape and if I keep it clean and full of gear oil it should outlive me and the next caretaker.
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you have to love the brass overload trust in the axle housing real old school and the GE gythal paint....Phil
 
You know it! I did my best to apply Glyptal to my transfer case on my CJ5 years ago but even a run through the dishwasher didn’t get it clean enough for it to stick. The next time I was in there the Glyptal was washed off of where the gears flung the oil.
But I think the thrust plate is actually steel. I’ll have to look at it again.
 
JABJEEP said:
You know it! I did my best to apply Glyptal to my transfer case on my CJ5 years ago but even a run through the dishwasher didn’t get it clean enough for it to stick. The next time I was in there the T was washed off of where the gears flung the oil.
But I think the thrust plate is actually steel. I’ll have to look at it again.
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to use gyptal you MUST clean it god like and then heat the casting in a oven to 700-800 f to burn the oil out of the pores and then sand blast and you can paint the inside and then bake at 250f, lots of work, but if it is new cast iron just needs to be painted and heat cured...a lot of cost...Phil
 
The glyptal would seal any sand or metal dust into the casting and also stop rust from forming on the castings. I had a left over gal from my motor shop I used on the bottom side of the vj2 jeepster body it was 40 years old and was still good...Phil
 
WA7OPY said:
GE brings good Things to life... but at a cost!!! $480/ gal...Phil
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How do you think they can afford to pay my pension?

A co-worker made this for my retirement, with management approval! Made on a larger CNC plasma cutter table (or water jet, I forget). It's stainless.
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Spent the day cleaning and looking for parts. I still haven't measured anything yet, but I did dig up the spec for backlash and pinion bearing preload. There is "some" preload, so I'm thinking this thing just needs seals and gaskets, and maybe a minor adjustment on the pinion bearings. We'll see tomorrow.

I can't read the entire number but that 54 D1 surely has something to do with the date code, which fits right in with the truck.
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Still has some original black paint!
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Look what I found! I bought these "used" (never installed!) in 2008 for a "future project" and had a vague memory of not having ever installed them. Well, this is the future, and it is a project, so I think I'll be updating the brakes. It had the later model 44 bolt pattern and either 4WPW or the guy I bought it from "drilled" (the burr on each hole suggests it was a dull drill with a lot of force!) the other two holes in each rear plate, plus the drain hole. These look like what my '70 Wagoneer had and what I put on my 62 CJ5 before I went with 4-wheel discs on that. (Hmmm, so that's where the brakes came from that I put on the wagon last year!)
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So that got me to thinking (oh oh). My (formerly?) "all original" '55 pickup will have several un-original upgrades if I continue down this path.
New frame
12 volt? (Allows me to mount the winch on this one)
12 volt radio?
Self-adjusting brakes.
Right-hand thread lug nuts on all 4 corners
Class III reciever hitch and (12 volt) trailer wiring
Screw-on shift knob (so it doesn't keep coming off in my hand!)
Headliner made of cloth
Real sideview mirrors
Herculiner bedliner floor "mat" and maybe even in the bed
Vintage locking hubs
Gas tank and transmission skid plates
3-point passenger restraints
Where will it end!?
 
JABJEEP said:
So that got me to thinking (oh oh). My (formerly?) "all original" '55 pickup will have several un-original upgrades if I continue down this path.
New frame
12 volt? (Allows me to mount the winch on this one)
12 volt radio?
Self-adjusting brakes.
Right-hand thread lug nuts on all 4 corners
Class III reciever hitch and (12 volt) trailer wiring
Screw-on shift knob (so it doesn't keep coming off in my hand!)
Headliner made of cloth
Real sideview mirrors
Herculiner bedliner floor "mat" and maybe even in the bed
Vintage locking hubs
Gas tank and transmission skid plates
3-point passenger restraints
Where will it end!?
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Don would be so disappointed. :rolleyes:;)
 
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