Pete's 1960 Wagon

I spent 8 hours under my wagon today, replacing the body mounts. Getting the old bolts out was a chore. It took hours of grinding, drilling, swearing... it’s a hateful job.

Got the new bushings in with two thick washers, which gave me about 1/2” body lift.

Once the body was lifted, the PTO fits under the floor. [emoji106]

Finished installing the PTO and did the new rear u-joints while I was at it.

Now to fab the front half of the shifter, extend the drive shaft, and fill it with fluid.

More to come...

Pete
 
If those were original never been removed body bolts, I am surprised that a trip to the ER wasn't included!

I've used an offset box wrench on the nut and my big impact to break them.
 
If those were original never been removed body bolts, I am surprised that a trip to the ER wasn't included!

I've used an offset box wrench on the nut and my big impact to break them.

They were factory originals, squashed flat and hard as a rock.

I used a big impact and most of them just round off. 5 of the 14 came out, two of them broke off with the impact, I had to drill three of them, and the rest I was able to cut off with a cut-off wheel.

Today I feel like I was hit by a bus after crawling around on the concrete floor all day...

Pete
 
I also, have needed a day or so to recover from working under my truck.
It sure is a tough laying under the vehicle using a cut off with sparks flying around.
You will feel better having this off your "to do list".
I want to install heat wrap on my dual exhaust pipe from the headers back behind the cab.

Cheers.
 
They were factory originals, squashed flat and hard as a rock.

I used a big impact and most of them just round off. 5 of the 14 came out, two of them broke off with the impact, I had to drill three of them, and the rest I was able to cut off with a cut-off wheel.

Today I feel like I was hit by a bus after crawling around on the concrete floor all day...

Pete[/
They were factory originals, squashed flat and hard as a rock.

I used a big impact and most of them just round off. 5 of the 14 came out, two of them broke off with the impact, I had to drill three of them, and the rest I was able to cut off with a cut-off wheel.

Today I feel like I was hit by a bus after crawling around on the concrete floor all day...

Pete
Just think of all those gear choices on your beer runs ;)
 
I made myself get back out to the garage on Sun day, to get more done on the wagon.
I pulled the PTO shaft after measuring for the extension. It needs to be 7" longer. Probably going to cut it and sleeve a section of tubing. This will have to wait till I have more gumption. In the mean time, I can drive the wagon without it.

I still need to fab the shifter bracket for the PTO, but probably will wait till warmer weather.

I filled everything with 90wt, and if it had been blood it would have looked like a murder scene. For some reason, I am unable to fill the trans/transfer case without spilling this stuff. No matter how much I try, it gets everywhere...

Once I had everything full, I jacked up the rear end and ran it through the gears to move the oil into the OD. Then topped it off again. Once I am able to drive it for a few miles, I'll top it again just to be sure it's full, and then continue to check it on a regular basis.

I went for a spin to try it out, and everything seems to be working as it should. It shifts easy, just like having a forth gear. The only disappointment is the smell of gear oil which I hate, and the fact that my old 6-226 hardly has enough power to maintain speed in OD.

I still need to go through the ignition system again, check the timing, and general tune up stuff. Maybe adjust the valves, which I've never done. Maybe go back to the Pertronix and Weber carb. It's running on a used condensor, that may be going bad. It was put in prior to the rewire which I'm hoping will fix whatever electrical gremlin was that caused them to burn out.

The 'ol box of hammers may just be too tired to handle the OD. If so, swapping the rebuilt 6-226 I have sitting in the garage might need to happen sooner than later. In the mean time, I'm going to try and get it running as good as I can, and call it good for now.

More to come.

Pete
 
How do you fill the 90wt? I use a weed sprayer with an adapter on the end. I fill it until oil comes out that fill plug I told you to add to the side of the OD adapter. I have the BWOD as well so it takes over a gallon for me. With the main box, 2 OD's, T-case and PTO, I basically have 5 transmission. Hard to keep all of them leak/weep free at the same time! Oh, I had to extend the breather on the t-case with some fittings and braided hose up into the engine compartment to one of those mini air cleaners.

Nothing says "Willys" more than the smell of gear oil in the morning!
 
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How do you fill the 90wt? I use a weed sprayer with an adapter on the end. I fill it until oil comes out that fill plug I told you to add to the side of the OD adapter. I have the BWOD as well so it takes over a gallon for me. With the main box, 2 OD's, T-case and PTO, I basically have 5 transmission. Hard to keep all of them leak/weep free at the same time! Oh, I had to extend the breather on the t-case with some fittings and braided hose up into the engine compartment to one of those mini air cleaners.

Nothing says "Willys" more than the smell of gear oil in the morning!

I have a little pump that fits onto the gallon jug of oil. It took about a gallon and a half to fill the trans, t-case, and PTO and PTO adapter, maybe a little more.

Extending the breather is on my list. Routing the smell elsewhere would be great.

Pete
 
Ordered a new Pertronix module today, going to give it another shot now that I have everything rewired. Hoping that whatever was burning out the electronic modules and condensors is fixed... And also hoping that an ignition that works like it is supposed to will help push the wagon down the road in overdrive.

dist17.jpg


Fingers crossed.

Pete
 
Good luck Pete. I have been wanting to change my ignition to electronic but when I read reports like yours I forget about it. You are on the right track though. If you have good compression you do need good spark at the right time and good fuel air mixturev to build power. From my experience I was not getting enough advance using a timing light. Plus the bolt that holds the distributor in place would not stay tight. I replaced it with a bolt and nylon lock nut. Then I would set the timing up and drive it. It took a couple of times but it starts much easier now and is pretty peppy for what it is. I wish I had an overdrive to tell you how that felt. Once you get good spark try the Weber again. I love mine.
 
Good luck Pete. I have been wanting to change my ignition to electronic but when I read reports like yours I forget about it.

I plan to carry the points distributor with me, just in case the Pertronix fails again. Easy to swap on the side of the road.

Once you get good spark try the Weber again. I love mine.

Once I get everything dialed in with the overdrive, PTO stuff, and ignition, I'm going to give the Weber another go. It's patiently waiting on the shelf...

Pete
 
Gotta polish that box of hammers and squeak all you can out of it. Best of luck.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Pete, do you have 2 dizzys; one with the points and one with the Pertronix? Any tips you can pass on would be greatly appreciated.
I ordered my Pertronix and they said it was ten days out but it showed up in 4. Have yet to install it, busy trying to spiff up the engine compartment!
 
Pete, do you have 2 dizzys; one with the points and one with the Pertronix? Any tips you can pass on would be greatly appreciated.
I ordered my Pertronix and they said it was ten days out but it showed up in 4. Have yet to install it, busy trying to spiff up the engine compartment!

Yes, I have two distributors. I put the Pertronix kit into the original distributor that was on the engine from the factory.
I have a spare 6-226 engine that was supposedly rebuilt. I robbed the points distributor off of it when the pertronix unit failed.

Here's my post about converting the old distributor to the Pertronix unit. It's pretty straight forward.

Pete
 
Pete;
I've used several Pertronix modules on prior restos, never had a problem with them. A few necessary points, GROUNDS! Very necessary that they be low resistance. I used bonding straps from the body to the frame, from the starter to the frame and from the engine mounts to the frame. Also at least #4 battery cable on both the plus and neg. sides. NO bolt together ends on them! crimped, or factory made, only! Using their coil is also important, or a Standard coil with at least a 3 ohm resistance, only a NON external resistor type. If you have an alternator, make sure that it has at least a # 10 output wire.
 
I've had a Pertronix on my 6-230 for 25+ years without any issues. They used my distributor for the prototype and I still have the 1st hand made unit installed. I ran their 3 ohm Flame Thrower coil until last year wired with the external resistor. No problems. I replaced the coil and bypassed the resistor this time after talking to one of their techs. I cannot tell the difference neither way.
 
Spent some time on the wagon over the weekend, and re-installed the Pertronix distributor on my 6-226. Reset the timing, and it fired up and ran, but with an intermittent miss...
I pulled each of the plug wires from the cap and inspected the connectors. I found two that were frayed and poor connections. Fixed them, and the miss went away. It ran good, so I went for a spin.
Throttle response seems better, and it did have a little more power getting up to speed on the highway, but still doesn't have enough to maintain speed in OD...
I need to check the gap on the plugs, and check the coil. I thought I had bought one of the high output Flamethrower coils, but can't find it now. A better coil might help some more.
Hoping with the new wiring, better grounds, etc that the electronic ignition will survive this time.
Next will be to give the Weber carb another try...
Still need to finish up the PTO mods for the OD installation: Fab shifter mount, extend the PTO driveshaft, and make new shifter boots.

More to come...
Pete
 
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