Paint Primer Rust Question

[retmotor]

So this rig I just bought has areas with bare metal showing, not all of which is rusted, but some of it is. It looks like the PO took a mechanical sander to it and more or less left it. Now it will be months (probably months and months) before I'll be able to paint this rig. My original thought was to strip these areas to the metal, buy some primer (tractor paint -- can't remember the name but Quality Supply sells it) and apply it to those areas (the store is close, the price is right, and the paint looks really good when I've used it on tools). But I got to wondering -- am I just causing myself more work for later on when I am able to get around to doing the body work and paint -- having to remove the primer I just put on? Is there a better way?

Oh, it's going to be outside, uncovered for several weeks or longer, potentially much longer.

I hope this isn't a dumb question, I've been restraining myself about asking questions until I get the books and manuals I've ordered -- I figure they'll answer most of my questions.

 

[Pete]

I hope this isn't a dumb question, I've been restraining myself about asking questions...

No such thing as a dumb question... We are all here to share the collective knowlege-

Pete

 

[Dratwagon.]

The only dumb question is the question you never ask.

Your best bet is to scuff it down, wipe it clean and shoot it with a good sealer, your best bet is to find yourself a local paint stor and ask them what to use.

As you can see mine has been bare metel for two years with no rust but we don't get any rain.

Good luck. :cheers:

 

[cnsay]

You could spray some rattle can spray paint on the bare spots. Then when you get ready to do the body work some chemical stripper will lift it right off. Primers without sealer can sometimes hold moisture and make the metal underneath rust.

 

[Willy48]

Brian, here's a pic of my '54 Ford that's been in primer since 2001

What you want is a two part catylized primer. It's water inpenetrable and won't "chalk" like a regular or rattlecan primer. When it's time to paint, just scuff-n-shoot. Most regular primers are clay based and not meant for permanent top-coating. They will absorb water and the base metal will corrode as if it were bare

Lee

 

[wally72]

Willy48 has the right idea. DuPont Variprime will keep the metal sealed up.

 

[retmotor]

Ok. Thank you all for the input and the understanding. Lee, that's a good looking car by the way -- even in primer.

I'll start looking for a two-part catalyzed primer. I see DuPont says they don't sell Variprime to the public...

 

[Willy48]

Brian, my paint was from Sherwin Williams automotive paints. PPG has a good urethane primer, and I believe Summit Racing offers a catalyzed primer in their own paint series. A lot of paints nowadays are regulated by the EPA. The more volatile the paint, the less likely us "shadetree" guys are gonna get it, unless you know someone in the paint/body trade. I think Street Rodder magazine did an article on primers awhile back. I'll look through my "pile" to find it, and give you some more info

Lee

 

[Eric B]

I am partially in the shade tree stage with mine. For the body I am using rattle can primer till it's all finished and ready for paint and sealer. Using it to keep it sealed while it's in the garage still getting worked on. I plan on using a good sealer prior to painting but just wanted the bare metal exposed while it's stilll in process.

 

[cnsay]

I am partially in the shade tree stage with mine. For the body I am using rattle can primer till it's all finished and ready for paint and sealer. Using it to keep it sealed while it's in the garage still getting worked on. I plan on using a good sealer prior to painting but just wanted the bare metal exposed while it's stilll in process.

Pretty much what I am doing also. Looks kinda ugly, the parts stores never seem to have the same color primer in stock. Mine has some black, red, and gray primer. Making a calico Willys. :lol:

 

[62 OlllO]

After, stripping, sanding, sasnd blasting or grinding the paint off...I used a two part epoxy primer which allows you to do body work over it. And the longer the epoxy primer dry's the harder it gets. In the poast I have used Por 15 to stop rust dead in it's tracks....expensive but it does work! Good luck with your project.....

 

[retmotor]

Thank you everyone for the input.

I've been doing some research and have some more to do but I have figured out there's several different types of primers out there and if I'm going to leave it primed and in the weather, an epoxy primer is the only way to go.

Also, it appears if I blast it with media I don't need an etching primer, otherwise I do. The media blasting will require a compressor upgrade, so that won't happen until I sell some stuff.

I didn't realize how much I didn't know about automotive painting.