Overheating Ford 302 V8

RunThruDaJungle

RunThruDaJungle

Precision Fit
All-Star
Feb 26, 2022
829
SoCal
First Name
Stuart
Willys Model
  1. Wagon
Willys Year:
  1. 1962
I didn't drive my Traveler to the Willys Only Gathering this past weekend because of overheating problems. But I did ride my motorcycle up there so I could at least kick tires and tell lies with those that gathered there. And it was very helpful to see what other cooling setups there were. I was also given quite a bit of advice, some of which I have put into action--shout out to @muleskinner Mike. He even looked up and got part numbers from Summit Racing for a new aluminum radiator and a high flow water pump as soon as he got home!

So, I have an aluminum 3-row radiator arriving tomorrow. I have the old radiator out and ready for the new, but there are a couple of other issues I need to deal with.

One: I had put a new thermostat in when I replaced the water pump and when the lower hose came off on the freeway, things got pretty hot, so I decided to check and replace the thermostat again. When I reinstalled the housing one of the bolts started to feel like the threads in the block were stripping out so I stopped tightening it and sure enough, it developed a leak.
IMG_8795.jpeg
Suggestions how to fix the stripped threads?
I will have to take off the water pump I'm pretty sure to get to it. I tried putty a little bit longer bolt in but there is not enough room (hard to see at this angle).
 
The other issue I could use some advice with has to do with the transmission cooler. Mine was an external cooler attached right up against the front of the radiator. Trans cooler with the radiator removed.
IMG_8796.jpeg
The new radiator has fittings for an internal cooler. I'm not sure what is going to happen when I remove the hoses from the cooler. How much oil should I be prepared to catch when I remove them?
 
RunThruDaJungle said:
The other issue I could use some advice with has to do with the transmission cooler. Mine was an external cooler attached right up against the front of the radiator. Trans cooler with the radiator removed.
View attachment 182403
The new radiator has fittings for an internal cooler. I'm not sure what is going to happen when I remove the hoses from the cooler. How much oil should I be prepared to catch when I remove them?
Click to expand...
Be prepared for at least a quart. Meaning, get a two quart drain pan.
 
Ira said:
Personally, I would keep the external cooler unless there is a good reason to get rid of it.
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I think the way it was mounted restricted cool airflow to the radiator.
I only have an electric fan that draws air (mounted on the inside.
Why would you prefer to keep it?
 
Stuart, Helicoil (or similar) is the proper fix. Can't tell, but maybe a right angle drill or a series of reamers in a tap handle. I would put a strong magnet in the housing and grease on the drill to catch the shavings. Unless your old radiator was plugged or there was too much corrosion between the fins and tubes that hampered heat transfer, I'm not sure the aluminum radiator alone will be the magic fix. I've owned 3 Ford motors, (Actually 4 if you count the 428CJ) , a 289, 302 and a 351 and none of them had an overheating issue. Maybe one of your accessories is putting too much drag on the motor? Check the alternator, PS pump and see if they are turning freely. Maybe your electric fan isn't moving enough air, but that wouldn't matter at freeway speeds.
I Know how you drive, so I would ditch the external trans cooler. One more thing to leak and restrict air flow and add heat to the radiator.
 
For the striped threads in the intake manifold for the thermostat housing I went with @Ira 's suggestion and did the stud thing. I double nutted the stud to install it.
IMG_8803.jpeg

I got a new housing from NAPA, a cheap pot metal/plastic made in China that looks perdy but even the sales person says wouldn't last as long as the cast metal ones but they had it in stock. So we'll see which lasts longer, my stud fix or the housing! I was also loath to remove the water pump which I'd have to do to do a Heli-Coil fix.
IMG_8805.jpeg

Speaking of the water pump and what @gremlinjeep said above, I almost ordered a high flow one from Summit because I don't have very high confidence in the quality of the one I got from NAPA after the skimping on the outlet fitting that caused my problems with the hose coming off. So my rational is that if I do decide to change the water pump, I'll do a proper fix of the stripped threads. I will be able to access it with a drill with the water pump removed.

But for now I just want to get this new radiator installed and the tranny cooler rerouted. I'm pleased with how close a fit it is. Won't have to do any fabrication at all. Just drill some holes to match the radiator.
IMG_8804.jpeg

Once again, I appreciate the input and advice from you all on this forum. Thank you!
 
KLankford said:
Dorman made a thermostat housing that I finally used and felt good about it. But I have looked through my emails etc and can't find a part number. But this is what Rockauto says.
www.dormanproducts.com

Dorman Products - Aftermarket Auto Parts & OE Solutions - 902-1001

Engine Coolant Thermostat Housing
www.dormanproducts.com www.dormanproducts.com
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Thanks, that would be the one I need!
I'm curious what the difference will be between a paper gasket one and a rubber O-ring one like I got. Sure is easier to install. But I notice that the thermostat isn't firmly seated--has a tiny bit of play even tightening the housing down as tight as I dared.
 
Stuart, my local NAPA has this in stock. He can also get the Dorman unit, that Kenny recommended, tomorrow. If you somehow cannot get a cast iron housing in SoCal, I am willing to buy either housing for you and mail it to you. Lmk. Or, you can use the part number and shop other, local NAPA's.
769017156.jpg
 
Stakebed said:
Stuart, my local NAPA has this in stock. He can also get the Dorman unit, that Kenny recommended, tomorrow. If you somehow cannot get a cast iron housing in SoCal, I am willing to buy either housing for you and mail it to you. Lmk. Or, you can use the part number and shop other, local NAPA's.
View attachment 182433
Click to expand...
Wow, thanks!
My NAPA could have ordered and got the cast iron one like next day. I was just impatient and fell for the chrome bling effect.
 
RunThruDaJungle said:
I think the way it was mounted restricted cool airflow to the radiator.
I only have an electric fan that draws air (mounted on the inside.
Why would you prefer to keep it?
Click to expand...
I doubt it was restricting flow to the radiator, air just flows right through it. You went right by the fact you use an electric fan without mentioning what kind it is, how big it is, how much CFM it produces, how far away from the radiator it is and if it has a shroud of not. Any of those factors could be an issue. My 16" Volvo 2 speed electric fan sucks air through the radiator and the tranny cooler with such force, you don't want to be in front of the grill when it comes on. it'll suck you right through like a jet engine ! lol
 
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