Overdrive wanted

cwdtmmrs

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Tim
Willys Model
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#22

Lynn

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1955
#23
That is it. I drilled and tapped for a pipe plug fill hole mid way up on the side. You need to keep a lot of oil in the adapter and the PTO unit.
Andy, I just spoke with Kaiser Willys... they said no, but AA had them. AA also does not have an adapter. Still searching.
 

Doug 415

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Berlin Md
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Willys Model
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1950
#24
Hi Lynn, I spoke before about an axle change. I don't know what your trying to do with your wagon. Are you looking for more speed on the hi-way, or more power to the rear wheels. The 283 is a great engine but you have to do firewall work for the distributor to make sure you can remove the cap at a later time or move the motor forward some and use an electric fan. The old motor mounts will need to be removed and new one welded in. ( available at Novak and Advance adapters) If you do a motor swap remember the motor sits approx. 1" to the drivers side so that the front driveshaft will clear the starter. I installed a Buick motor in mine due to the distributor being in the front so there was no firewall cutting. ( a ford motor also has the distributor in the front) You need to look on the internet about the cost verses MPH of an overdrive. When I looked into it it was around $750.00 and was only going to gain around 8-10 MPH while most speed limits where I live are between 60-70 MPH and that just wasn't going to work. ( I spent $350.00 on both rears in mine truck.) The stock rears (front and back) have a very small ring and pinion gears there for changing them was not an option, so I changed the back rear using a 1978 blazer rear which was 60" from backing plate to backing plate. I had to center it up under the springs and weld new axle tube- spring brackets that I purchased at tractor supply. I installed a 3.73 ring and pinion ( front and rear) and now I cruse at 70-75 MPH The issue with the blazer rear is that it has six lugs, but you should be able to change to a 5 lug axle. My front axle is a D44 from a 1974 scout II which was only 1/2" wider then the stock front axle which made it 1/4" on each side plus it has disc brakes so I upgraded the master cylinder for better stopping power because it now goes faster. I also had to build a new transmission/ transfercase mount. Just remember before spending a lot of money on an overdrive how fast are you looking to go, Your going to loose power at the higher end, you don't have to change both rears at the same time, just leave the front driveshaft off until you change the front rear, you are going to need adapters, axle u-bolts, brake lines, and possible of new drive shafts or old one modified, If you can purchase the restoration guide from Willys America it has a wealth of information on changing motors, rears, axles, parts, identification of the different years, it's a great source of information
 

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Lynn

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Lynn
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Willys Year:
1955
#25
Hi Lynn, I spoke before about an axle change. I don't know what your trying to do with your wagon. Are you looking for more speed on the hi-way, or more power to the rear wheels. The 283 is a great engine but you have to do firewall work for the distributor to make sure you can remove the cap at a later time or move the motor forward some and use an electric fan. The old motor mounts will need to be removed and new one welded in. ( available at Novak and Advance adapters) If you do a motor swap remember the motor sits approx. 1" to the drivers side so that the front driveshaft will clear the starter. I installed a Buick motor in mine due to the distributor being in the front so there was no firewall cutting. ( a ford motor also has the distributor in the front) You need to look on the internet about the cost verses MPH of an overdrive. When I looked into it it was around $750.00 and was only going to gain around 8-10 MPH while most speed limits where I live are between 60-70 MPH and that just wasn't going to work. ( I spent $350.00 on both rears in mine truck.) The stock rears (front and back) have a very small ring and pinion gears there for changing them was not an option, so I changed the back rear using a 1978 blazer rear which was 60" from backing plate to backing plate. I had to center it up under the springs and weld new axle tube- spring brackets that I purchased at tractor supply. I installed a 3.73 ring and pinion ( front and rear) and now I cruse at 70-75 MPH The issue with the blazer rear is that it has six lugs, but you should be able to change to a 5 lug axle. My front axle is a D44 from a 1974 scout II which was only 1/2" wider then the stock front axle which made it 1/4" on each side plus it has disc brakes so I upgraded the master cylinder for better stopping power because it now goes faster. I also had to build a new transmission/ transfercase mount. Just remember before spending a lot of money on an overdrive how fast are you looking to go, Your going to loose power at the higher end, you don't have to change both rears at the same time, just leave the front driveshaft off until you change the front rear, you are going to need adapters, axle u-bolts, brake lines, and possible of new drive shafts or old one modified, If you can purchase the restoration guide from Willys America it has a wealth of information on changing motors, rears, axles, parts, identification of the different years, it's a great source of information
Doug, that was a headspinner! Yes, I am about to give up on the od because I can't find the PTO adapter... not excited about the $1350 either. I have read about 283's being in Wagons and p'ups for a long time, and that is first time I have heard of the fitment problems. No, I don't want to cut firewall. More research. Thanks!
 

KLankford

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#26
I have a 283 and a 350 and a 302 SB. I would probably go the Ford route if I had to do it all over again.
 

cwdtmmrs

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#28
I have a 283 and a 350 and a 302 SB. I would probably go the Ford route if I had to do it all over again.
I like the Buicks, but a Ford 289/302 is pretty sweet. Distributor in the front and a little narrower than a SBC. I had a 289 in my 1st wagon 40+ years ago.
 

Greg5565

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#30

Lynn

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#31
jinx

Not Mine but looks complete and better than anything new. need you counts.
https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/rare-warn-overdrive/6821252733.html
Thanks for taking the time to try to help me. I have tried to make contact, but have not been able to get a strong enough signal to pull up the contact information. If you or anyone else following this post could look at it and see or know if it would fit a T-90 and Dana 18, I would talk serious about buying it. Not sure how I would come out if I had to rebuild it... might should figure on that anyway. Still have to make sure linkage would work... I doubt it would because mine has to hook up in front rather than rear due to pto... and still have to buy adapter. I am sinking fast! Thanks!
 

Pete

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#32
Thanks for taking the time to try to help me. I have tried to make contact, but have not been able to get a strong enough signal to pull up the contact information. If you or anyone else following this post could look at it and see or know if it would fit a T-90 and Dana 18, I would talk serious about buying it. Not sure how I would come out if I had to rebuild it... might should figure on that anyway. Still have to make sure linkage would work... I doubt it would because mine has to hook up in front rather than rear due to pto... and still have to buy adapter. I am sinking fast! Thanks!
The OD in the craigslist ad is a 29 tooth ten spline unit. Your Dana 18 is likely a 6 spline. You can count the splines and teeth by removing the PTO.
Unless it is mint, you'll likely spend more than new by the time you rebuild it. Something to be said for the quality of the older units though.
Pete
 

Pete

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#33
I doubt it would because mine has to hook up in front rather than rear due to pto... and still have to buy adapter. I am sinking fast! Thanks!
Here's a pic Indian John's setup, with a Ramsey PTO.

There should be plenty of room to have the rear facing linkage for the OD in conjunction with the PTO and the adapter. The adapter is about 6"-7" long.
The Koenig PTO is smaller, and doesn't have the long section between the shifter and the chain drive housing.
Pete
 

Pete

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#34
Here's a pic of my Koenig PTO mounted to the transfercase/transimission, without the OD and adapter for comparison.
 
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Andrew
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#35
The 283 is a great engine but you have to do firewall work for the distributor to make sure you can remove the cap at a later time or move the motor forward some and use an electric fan.
I've seen Chevy swaps that didn't require firewall cutting, and used a mechanical fan. It's tight, but doable. The engine has to be set as far forward as possible, so it depends a lot on how thick the chosen radiator is. There's usually not room to use an HEI distributor, either.

Andy
 

Lynn

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#36
The OD in the craigslist ad is a 29 tooth ten spline unit. Your Dana 18 is likely a 6 spline. You can count the splines and teeth by removing the PTO.
Unless it is mint, you'll likely spend more than new by the time you rebuild it. Something to be said for the quality of the older units though.
Pete
No need to worry about it if splines are different.
The OD in the craigslist ad is a 29 tooth ten spline unit. Your Dana 18 is likely a 6 spline. You can count the splines and teeth by removing the PTO.
Unless it is mint, you'll likely spend more than new by the time you rebuild it. Something to be said for the quality of the older units though.
Pete
I've seen Chevy swaps that didn't require firewall cutting, and used a mechanical fan. It's tight, but doable. The engine has to be set as far forward as possible, so it depends a lot on how thick the chosen radiator is. There's usually not room to use an HEI distributor, either.

Andy
I was reasonably sure that it could be done. Do you agree with the previous contributor stating that the engine had to be shifted slightly to the driver side to clear starter /driveshaft impact?
 
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#37
Do you agree with the previous contributor stating that the engine had to be shifted slightly to the driver side to clear starter /driveshaft impact?
Yes.... mine is, anyway, and I've seen mention of it more than once when V8 swaps are discussed.

Whoever put the 350 in my wagon set it as far back as they could... the valve covers are almost touching the firewall, and they cut the center of the firewall out for distributor clearance. It's a shame that they cut the firewall, but it is nice to have the engine back that far in terms of weight distribution.

Andy
 

Lynn

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#38
Well I will go to extremes to keep from butchering firewall. I bought a 54 pickup a few weeks ago that I have not picked up yet. Funny story... I bought it from the son of a man that took me for my first and only ride in a jeep truck in 1968(16 years old) ...fifty years ago... same family. Was parked in the woods... has a 283 in it. Anxious to see if firewall is cut.
 

Lynn

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#39
Here's a pic Indian John's setup, with a Ramsey PTO.

There should be plenty of room to have the rear facing linkage for the OD in conjunction with the PTO and the adapter. The adapter is about 6"-7" long.
The Koenig PTO is smaller, and doesn't have the long section between the shifter and the chain drive housing.
Pete
Pete, I would like to know more about Indian John and his od setup. Great picture!
 

Doug 415

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#40
Hi Lynn, just some follow up information both the willys repair manual and the restoration guide from Willys America talk about placing the engine more to the drivers side, not just for a V-8 motor but the 226 motor as well. If you have the 6 cylinder measure from the balancer bolt ( bottom pully) to both the right and left frame rails. Personally I wouldn't spend that kind of money to gain 8-10 MPH, I would change the motor out, purchase an adapter to the T-90 transmission, and change out the back rear with one with a better gearing ratio, hook up the rear driveshaft, brakes, etc, and drive it without a front drive shaft connected until which you either have the time or money to replace the front rear. Most people wouldn't even know it wasn't there unless you tell them or do a lot of 4- wheeling. I moved my Buick motor in mine forward approx 1-1/2" to keep from hitting the fire wall and than had an issue with the transmission crossmember so I had to build a new one because the frame gets smaller going toward the front and the old one was in the way for the dual exhaust. If I was to do mine over I to would use a Ford motor because it's becoming harder to fine older Buick 350 engine parts. I don't know where you live but as for my radiator it needed to be replaced because the original one isn't large enough to keep it cool in the hot summer time. I'm currently installing two 10" electric fans in my truck that will operate on a temperature switch so they will come on at a set temperature. Also if you have the 4 cylinder motor and are swapping to a V-8 oyou will need to change the front shaft in the T-90 transmission.
 
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