Thanks, this is my goal for the weekend. My plan is to get the axle out with out disconnecting the brake lines. I am hoping this let me identify any bad parts so I can get new parts ordered before my next trip up.
Noise Driver Side Front Wheel
- Thread starter ChrisGTE
- Start date
Yes, there’s one tapered roller bearing outboard that would have come out when you pulled the wheel off the spindle. There’s a matching bearing inboard, held in place by the grease seal.
Tapered roller bearings always operate in pairs.
I checked the bearing and while it was installed it did feel rough and kind of loose. It felt like it was moving around and something was rubbing.
I knocked it out and after cleaning it up I am not getting any roughness.
I got the axle out this morning. I cleaned everything up and other than some of the grease being a bit thicker than the new stuff I added a few weeks ago, everything is there any thing that I should be checking. At this point I am not seeing anything that is clearly wrong/damaged. I am not sure what the next step is.
Attachments
- Oct 5, 2020
- 1,280
- First Name
- Fred
- Willys Model
- Wagon
- Pickup
- Jeepster
- CJ
- Willys Year:
- 1946
- 1948
- 1950
- 1955
- 1961
Being this far into the assembly you may consider removing the king pin bearing caps and check the condition of the tapered rollers and the races and replace the worn knuckle seals.
If good bearings (unlikely if old originals) pack with grease reinstall and add/remove shims to properly set preload.
If rough, replace and add/remove shims to properly set preload then install knuckle seals.
This will greatly improve steering and lessen the likelihood of wobble.
Follow your manual for details.
If good bearings (unlikely if old originals) pack with grease reinstall and add/remove shims to properly set preload.
If rough, replace and add/remove shims to properly set preload then install knuckle seals.
This will greatly improve steering and lessen the likelihood of wobble.
Follow your manual for details.
- Sep 20, 2017
- 8,689
- First Name
- Jeff
- Willys Model
- Wagon
- Pickup
- CJ
- Willys Year:
- 1955
- 1958
- 1962
Can we see pictures of the bearings?
Yes, including the races.
This is the bearing and race from the brake drum. I need to pull the race out of the hub but may run out of time if I try and get the king ping bearings removed before I have to head home.
Attachments
Doesn't look good to me. Ya already got it apart, install new bearings & races.
The horizontal lines on the race — are those just grease tracks or are they wear marks? If the latter, that could certainly make noise as the bearing turns under load.
Last edited:
- Sep 20, 2017
- 8,689
- First Name
- Jeff
- Willys Model
- Wagon
- Pickup
- CJ
- Willys Year:
- 1955
- 1958
- 1962
I've seen better, and far worse, still in operation. Before you order wheel bearings there's still some disassembly required. As has been mentioned, check the king pin bearings and add a couple of spindle/hub seals to the order. Were the knuckle seals sealing good? If not, now is a good time to replace them.
You only need to remove the top kingpin to remove the knuckle. The bottom kingpin can stay attached to the knuckle.
cwdtmmrs
Well Oiled
- Jul 19, 2012
- 7,507
- First Name
- Tim
- Willys Model
- Wagon
- Willys Year:
- 1952
My policy is that if I take an assemble apart and have any doubts, it is getting new parts IF good quality new parts are available.
I guess that is the difference between someone who knows what they are looking at and me
. My plan is to replace all the bearings and races.
I cleaned the bearings and races off to give a better picture of them.
Attachments
I got the top and bottom king pins out, there looks like a lot of wear on the top king pin.
I have the knuckle seal kit, what is the spindle/hub kit? I am not looking to take this further than I need to but do agree now is the time to get stuff done.
Attachments
One other thing I was very disappointed to see what the wear on the knuckle. It appears very pitted, Is this due to it being parked with the wheel turned for a long period of time. Before the intermittent "clunking" started the jeep actually drove well for a 60 year old car.
Attachments
- Sep 20, 2017
- 8,689
- First Name
- Jeff
- Willys Model
- Wagon
- Pickup
- CJ
- Willys Year:
- 1955
- 1958
- 1962
You had to remove the hub seal in order to remove the inner bearing. It's pressed into the back of the hub after the bearing is installed and seals the hub against the spindle.
Post #122, 123, and 124 have some info and pictures that might help; https://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/index.php?threads/project-ran-when-parked-58-wagon.31171/page-7
Post #122, 123, and 124 have some info and pictures that might help; https://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/index.php?threads/project-ran-when-parked-58-wagon.31171/page-7
Is that the wheel seal #6626S, if so I have I got them in my first buying spree, thanks.
The pitting isn’t a big problem. A lot of these get some rust when sitting for long periods of time without the grease wipe down that occurs with regular driving.
You can probably leave it as is, or you can use a bit of sandpaper or a wire wheel to smooth it a bit.
This isn’t a seal with critical tolerances, it only holds in tacky grease and keeps out dirt and moisture.
If one of these is left parked for a long time, it’s good to spread some grease on those. It’s probably more important in your oceanfront area.