New Restoration Started! CJ-2A

[JABJEEP]

6015 isn't the serail number, it's part of the casting. The serial number would be on the pad behind the oil filter. If all you can see in an "A" (From GPA?) it could have been stamped too lightly to see now or ground down but the "A" was too deep to grind away. The Ford GPA was the amphibous ("A" for amphibious) version of the GPW. At some point late in the war a batch of GPA's were disassembled and used for parts. Many of those engines ended up in various other jeep motor applications such as gensets, welders, and other jeeps. I have one that's going into GPW 37718 because I can't find the original motor. Some folks are willing to pay quite a bit for the right motor because unlike Willys, the Ford motors matched the frame and data plates when they left the factory. In other words, for a factory restoration all three numbers must be matching. Here's a picture of the serial number on my GPA motor on the pad behind the oil filter.



Here's what I meant by the 6015. They all hav ethat.

 

[Gunther]

Here's a picture of the serial numbers we found on the block. Only other thing was the letter "A" up by the water pump--which after researching had something to with whether the original engine had either undersize or oversize crank and/or rod bearings. So far I've been amazed at how clean and tight everything is for being 75 years old. The odometer read around 65,000 when we tore it down. Had about 1/2" of sludge in the oild pan, and the rear ring and pinion were worn. Sure am glad we documented everything and took picutres of every serial number, color, etc. It would be cool to find and original 6 volt generator in good shape. The bad thing is that the distributer is original but the data plate was missing. I know it was original becuase it took 2 weeks of PB blaster soak and a torch before it even budged.

The next week or so will be getting those hat channels off. Trie to use a torch, but the wood inside caught on fire, so have to go with either drilling the spot welds or meticulouly grind them away--dremel maybe. Hoping replacing the hat channels and fixing the steps is all we need to do, but haven't looked real good at the fenders, windsheild, and grill yet. Fingers crossed....

PS--there was someone who suggested Willys America here in CA and Willys Jeep Parts out of AZ for parts. I want to thank you guys because those folks have been fantastic!

 

[JABJEEP]

Can you post a good close up picture of the normal GPW serial number location? It's the partially machined area with a little step on the left side on the front top right side of the engine right begind where the oil filter would go. You mentioned than an "A" was stamped there. Thanx!

 

[Gunther]

sure thing. I know it's painted now, but there was no number there at all. The only other number on the block is on the exhaust side right above the front exhaust port. You can make out the "A" behind the water pump in the before and after paint photo's.

I guess since we're talking serial numbers, here's the other data plates we pulled from the tub before we got into bodywork/fabrication. We did leave the data plate on the frame, but it has the same 13223 serial number.

 

[Stakebed]

@Gunther, best way to drill spot welds is a Blair Rotabroach. Consult your local paint and body supply jobber.

 

[JABJEEP]

sure thing. I know it's painted now, but there was no number there at all. The only other number on the block is on the exhaust side right above the front exhaust port. You can make out the "A" behind the water pump in the before and after paint photo's.

I guess since we're talking serial numbers, here's the other data plates we pulled from the tub before we got into bodywork/fabrication. We did leave the data plate on the frame, but it has the same 13223 serial number.

OK, now I see! The data plates are all typical CJ2A. The other stamped (not cast) numbers on the block don't tell us anything that we can use right now, but the blank pad behind the oil pump tells us that this was a Ford replacement engine. It was built to be installed in a jeep, or other application, and was supposed to have been stamped at the time of installation with the number of the old engine that was to be scrapped. Many of these were sold as surplus after the war. Sometimes an MB serial number will be stamped there because the replacement motor was installed in an MB. This might have been purchased through any number of surplus outlets including Berg's in Chicago, or even Sears anytime after WWII up to about the late '70's.

Here's a little info about that other number near the exhaust manifold: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=315427&p=1835296&hilit=ford+replacement+motor#p1835194

You probably have the stamped Ordnance Escutcheon (Leather belt with crossed cannons and flaming bomb) right under the number "2" by the exhasut manifold.

 

[Gunther]

OK, now I see! The data plates are all typical CJ2A. The other stamped (not cast) numbers on the block don't tell us anything that we can use right now, but the blank pad behind the oil pump tells us that this was a Ford replacement engine. It was built to be installed in a jeep, or other application, and was supposed to have been stamped at the time of installation with the number of the old engine that was to be scrapped. Many of these were sold as surplus after the war. Sometimes an MB serial number will be stamped there because the replacement motor was installed in an MB. This might have been purchased through any number of surplus outlets including Berg's in Chicago, or even Sears anytime after WWII up to about the late '70's.

Here's a little info about that other number near the exhaust manifold: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=315427&p=1835296&hilit=ford+replacement+motor#p1835194

You probably have the stamped Ordnance Escutcheon (Leather belt with crossed cannons and flaming bomb) right under the number "2" by the exhasut manifold.

Roger that thanks! Would you happen to know whether the tub serial number would have been original or aftermarket? The thing came out so clean and with so little rust after I scraped off the road tar, I'm starting to think we have something here. Got to be able to get $20K for a well done restoration--with the right buyer---laugh

Please disregard the hole in the floor. That's the bottom of the tool box where the both it and the hat passenger side channel was disintegrated.

 

[JABJEEP]

I think the whole story can be found on the CJ2A page forum, but IIRC the body tubs continued to be made by American Central Manufacturing for several years after WWII and they continued to serialize them with the toeboard gusset numbers. Eventually I think Willys started making the bodies for themselves, but I'm not sure. Somewhere along the line they started stamping a number in the edge of the tailgate too, but I don't know if that would be the same number as the toeboard gusset number or some other number.

 

[Gunther]

Thansk alot! That fills us in even more as to what we've got.

 

[DMusil]

Here's a picture of the serial numbers we found on the block. Only other thing was the letter "A" up by the water pump--which after researching had something to with whether the original engine had either undersize or oversize crank and/or rod bearings. So far I've been amazed at how clean and tight everything is for being 75 years old. The odometer read around 65,000 when we tore it down. Had about 1/2" of sludge in the oild pan, and the rear ring and pinion were worn. Sure am glad we documented everything and took picutres of every serial number, color, etc. It would be cool to find and original 6 volt generator in good shape. The bad thing is that the distributer is original but the data plate was missing. I know it was original becuase it took 2 weeks of PB blaster soak and a torch before it even budged.

The next week or so will be getting those hat channels off. Trie to use a torch, but the wood inside caught on fire, so have to go with either drilling the spot welds or meticulouly grind them away--dremel maybe. Hoping replacing the hat channels and fixing the steps is all we need to do, but haven't looked real good at the fenders, windsheild, and grill yet. Fingers crossed....

PS--there was someone who suggested Willys America here in CA and Willys Jeep Parts out of AZ for parts. I want to thank you guys because those folks have been fantastic!

They make bits for drilling out spot welds. Works very good.

 

[Stakebed]

They make bits for drilling out spot welds. Works very good.

Blair Rotabroach.

 

[Greaser007]

the GPW-6015 casting number designates a Ford built engine, and they are a chain drive.
If there is no GPW- xxxxxx numbering stamped in the oval pad, it may be a replacement engine.
I have what may be considered a replacement GPW block which had an aluminum engine tag riveted to the side of the block behind the oil pump. The machinist who I had jet-wash and magna-flux the block chiseled off the plate.
But, my oval pad is stamped and is flat with no protruding casting bump ahead of the number.


above photo showing oval pad with number. most GPW blocks had a GPW-xxxxxx stamping.


above photo - shows the aluminum engine tag for replacement engines. My best guess from what I've learned.



above photo - shows a GPW engine stamping. Looking close, the 'dash' is an Arrow !!

I restored and modified a '46 civilian cj2a in 1984 which had real nice standard bores in good shape. was a rarity then.