L6-226 fuel systems on '64 FC

ddaaccee

Bigger Hammer
Sep 3, 2021
51
US
First Name
Dave
Willys Model
  1. Forward Control
Willys Year:
  1. 1964
Hey guys, I wanted to post an update but also get some advice on this weekend's work.

The fun thing about these old motors is that when there is an immense amount of greasy dirt built up in an area, there's probably a reason. My rear main seal for example (I'm going to ignore that one for the time being). The other one of mine was around the mechanical fuel/vacuum pump. I decided to reach into the bowels and check it out. With my flash on, I took a picture and didn't really pay attention. When I took a break, I went back to my camera and noticed this opening in the valve train cover. Anybody know what's supposed to be there? Looks to large to be a bolt, maybe a breather?
PXL_20250224_175710142-EDIT.jpg


I decided to completely remove the pump and the carburetor to rebuild. I tore into the dual action pump knowing there's probably no chance of rebuilding it. That's when I found out that it grenaded itself at one point. I guess I will either do an electric pump and delete this whole setup? It would be cool to have a working one, minimize electrical things. Anybody have any thoughts/recommendations?
20250224_165305-COLLAGE.jpg
PXL_20250224_194335900-COLLAGE.jpg
PXL_20250224_192644805-COLLAGE.jpg
Lastly, I decided the carb needs to be removed and rebuilt. Maybe it had something to do with fuel leaking out the base a spilling on the intake housing. Looks like it's easy to find rebuild kits for this. Multiple recommendations from the Daytona guys, but I haven't heard back yet.
PXL_20250223_210607151-COLLAGE.jpg

PXL_20250224_203447146.jpg
 
Continued my research and found that I should have a draft tube in that hole. But also, there was an "update" on the vacuum system setup with a PCV? I guess I can stick with a draft tube for now.
 
Pump kit—Then and Now Automotive. It's not cheap, but it's worth every penny. It's not the easiest job, but it can be done with planning and patience. Proper identification is the key. Clean it up and look for numbers everywhere. You'll have to disassemble the pump to ascertain the style of the diaphragm rods and sizes of the valves and look for more numbers. Their phone is answered on Mondays and Thursdays only. Reassembly involves a step that puts a preload on the springs.
Carburetor - A kit is easy to install; it can be done with planning, the correct tools, and patience. What most learn the hard way is that if the carb has not been serviced in decades the throttle may need bushings and a new shaft. Any wobble is a vacuum leak.
 
Scoutpilot said:
What most learn the hard way is that if the carb has not been serviced in decades the throttle may need bushings and a new shaft. Any wobble is a vacuum leak.
Click to expand...
I will definitely be getting in touch with that company. That would be amazing to keep something unique like this operating.

I have little to no knowledge of carbs, so when you say "any wobble" I'm assuming if there is the slightest play in any direction, the carb may be junk or can I get parts for that too?
 
I got the rebuild kit from Daytona and I think I got it all back together appropriately, only one way to find out.

I have a follow up question for the experts. The parts list shows not only a carb flange gasket (part #910843), but also a carb insulator gasket (part #648970). It looks like they stack. Does anyone know of a replacement? Can I use the old one as long as it's not torn up?

Appreciate the help!
 
Ok, hopefully last question on this subject (for a while). Does anyone know the adapter fitting sizes for the carb and pump? I have 5/16 fuel line and fittings that fit the adapters, but I wouldn't mind buying new since the old ones are chewed up and corroded. There's a couple 90s and 45s.
 
Ahh, no wonder it's hard to find. Thanks Scout, been a huge help!
 
Good to know. Very frustrating because what I'm pulling off to replace goes back and forth between the fine and coarse threads and I can't find matching anything. I'll probably have adapters everywhere.
 
IIRC, at least on the MB/GPW/CJ2A, the carb itself is tapped for the 1/8" pipe thread (or 1/4"?) and the adapters are inverted flare, same as brake lines, and use double flared tubing, same as brake lines. Is that possibly the case here?
 
Yea, I think they used a lot of stuff to keep assembly and repair simple (what a novel idea!). I stole this photo from @Road Runner. I have C-D managed. G is being reused although it's questionable. It's the A-E I am trying to figure out. I want to change out the 90 from the intake to a tee fitting so that I can run a vacuum gauge off it (although, maybe I can use it from point F since I won't hook the wipers up using vacuum). The 90 at the intake was course thread to 5/16th line.

index.php


This is what I pulled off the intake.
20250307_135633-COLLAGE.jpg

Also, is this fitting from the block to the oil pressure gauge metered for the 1/8th inch line?
20250307_135633-COLLAGE.jpg
 
Yes, NPT to inverted flare. The parts store should have those in the little bins, or they can be ordered online from several sources.

I never noticed the small, possibly metered fitting, but an 1/8" hole in an 1/8" fitting should be fine. Plumbing pipe and fittings based on nominal sizes has a history that helps explain why they're typically much larger in ID than the nominal size. As technology improved, the pipes could have thinner walls, meaning the ID got bigger. Rather than create new threads they just kept the nominal sizes and we still follow that today (in pipe, not tubing, tubing measures the OD).

Tapping into the vacuum pump for a vacuum gauge isn't going to tell you anything about the engine vaccum, but you'll know whether or not the vacuum pump is any good.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top