L 226 STUCK ON 1962 wagon

I think in the case of my truck it was condensation, the prior owner always drained the radiator and block when it wasn't being used.
 
Located a running driving donor for around $1200 Thinking about picking it up while I sort this one out. Thoughts?

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Located a running driving donor for around $1200 Thinking about picking it up while I sort this one out. Thoughts?

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It never hurts to have spares to swap in, but don’t be surprised if the donor drive train components need rebuilding soon, too. Most of the same parts tend to be worn.
 
I hear ya. However, I don't fully know how hard it is to find a good block if mine is damaged. Are the l6-226 fairly common to come accross?

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Honestly if my 226 would crap out and not be able to be repaired I would look at an old school Ford 289 or 302. What ever is cheap. Do you have an overdrive in you're wagon?
 
Honestly if my 226 would crap out and not be able to be repaired I would look at an old school Ford 289 or 302. What ever is cheap. Do you have an overdrive in you're wagon?

I have to agree with Frank. As much as it pains me to admit to ANYONE that I had a Ford powered vehicle,it's the way to go. Distributor in front,not jammed up against the firewall. It's a smart choice though.
 
I have to agree with Frank. As much as it pains me to admit to ANYONE that I had a Ford powered vehicle,it's the way to go. Distributor in front,not jammed up against the firewall. It's a smart choice though.

X3 The Ford is narrower as well. I had a wagon years ago with a 289. hard to beat.
 
The more modern replacement engines are nice for daily drivers and actively used vehicles, but if yours will be lightly used and is mostly original, consider the value of keeping it that way. Good 226 blocks are not that hard to find.
 
Break out the propane torch and get each piston smoking hot and then re-oil . Try that a couple times before you give up.
 
Thanks all for the advice. Will keep trying to save this. My intent is to run occasionally for back road rides in the country. This has been in the family since new, so would like to keep it as stock as possible.
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Love the provenance. Definitely worth keeping it as original as possible.

Yeah, me too! The Ford only made it 9 years and the Willys is going on 60 years!

Another interesting note. The dealer installed "Kelly" locking hubs. I don't know what those are. Everyone seems to be set on finding Old Warn hubs for their "original" restorations though.
 
Thanks, I'm not sure I have ever seen those hubs. I have that same Sears Jeep catalog.
 
I have a set of those on my 48 pickup. They work great, but you do have to lock them manually.

Chuck
 
Read the shop manual for engine pulling instructions. Any other kernels of wisdom to yanking these? Thanks again for all the good info. I decided to hold off on a donor for the time being and focus on trying to fix this engine.
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Also picked up a HF stand for $25. Hope it works....
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Read the shop manual for engine pulling instructions. Any other kernels of wisdom to yanking these? Thanks again for all the good info. I decided to hold off on a donor for the time being and focus on trying to fix this engine.
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Easiest way is to use a 4 point engine leveler, one bolt to each corner of the block. I took the front grille off, made the removal real simple. Of course, disconnect speedo cable, driveshafts, take top cover off transmission and try to keep a slight upward angle on the engine as you lift.
 
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