High Hood 453-GB1

[JJS2]

Update & findings:
I did clean the points' contacts and re-gap, and swapped the rotor from one of the F-heads in the barn. I also removed and cleaned the battery's negative cable. No spark, yet. I still need to move things from around the 3B so as to be able to get it on jack stands. Then I can check for the grounds and to be able to remove the wheels. All four tires are flat, and I have replacement tires. As it sits, the driver's side is tight against stacked objects. (Lug nuts loosened, but no room to remove wheels.) The final word: Still no spark to the plugs, but I am confident (hopeful?) that further work on the grounds will make the difference. I'm trying to get clear of home maintenance and HoneyDos so that I can devote a few solid days' attention to the Jeep. I'll take a new cap & rotor with me, on the next trip.

Findings:
In a box of parts from the garage of my friend who sold me the 3B, was an old data plate which reads 453-GB2 279xx which matches the original registration material. It was bagged with the original mounting screws. Also, as expected, I verified that one of the two F-head engine's number matches the info on the original Registration and Title. I've mentioned before that my friend was told by the seller that one F-head had "a bad head", and the other was to be a replacement which was "in running condition". When he bought this 3B and a bunch of parts, the 3B had (still has) an L-134 installed.

Plan:
Make room to move a foot in this barn. (I'm just a renter, but under no pressure.) Then I can elevate the Jeep to get under it and to resolve the grounding situation. Also, I'd then be able to remove the front wheels, bring them home to clean & paint, and mount tires; then do the rears. Maybe pull & rebuild the sluggish starter. Later will come the decision whether to proceed with the Go-devil, or one of the Hurricanes. Also, once on aired-up tires, I could trailer the 3B to home, where I'd eliminate an hour's driving for to & from the barn.

 

[Bubblehead617]

I'd definitely try to get it home. MUCH easier to work on it there than the hour trip each way & you'll have more room to work on it.

 

[JJS2]

Thanks for the advice. I must be honest: It’s a half-hour’s drive, each way. But still…

I have complete faith in the advice from this Forum, and will proceed with securing excellent grounds, replacing the rotor and cap. Possibly rebuilding the starter. My deepest thanks, guys!

 

[JJS2]

We have Spark! Upon closer inspection through these old eyes, I had missed that the new NAPA Echlin points did not have enough spring pressure to properly close. After reinstalling the original points, there's spark.

So on to the fuel system! AND, we moved some things out of the barn, today, so there's now room to pull the wheels and replace the four flat tires (with some CraigsList nearly-new M&S tires.

 

[Bubblehead617]

Upward & onward!

 

[Stakebed]

We have Spark! Upon closer inspection through these old eyes, I had missed that the new NAPA Echlin points did not have enough spring pressure to properly close. After reinstalling the original points, there's spark.

So on to the fuel system! AND, we moved some things out of the barn, today, so there's now room to pull the wheels and replace the four flat tires (with some CraigsList nearly-new M&S tires.

Did you look inside the box for the points? I too bought A NAPA set. The real points spring was loose in the box and had to be added to the points assembly.

 

[JJS2]

Thanks for the reply! I’ll check in the box on my return there. I find it reassuring to hear your experience, and easier to believe that it was an error on my part, than a bad Echlin part. I almost always used that brand with cars, in the past.

 

[JJS2]

Hi Joe, I didn't find a stray spring in the box. Oh well. As I said above, it's not impossible that I misplaced it. I won't worry it any further, since with the old points cleaned and installed I not only saw spark, but today the engine also started and ran smoothly for as long as it took to burn the ounce or two of gas I had dumped into the carb. What a good feeling! The 3B was missing the woven ground strap by the mount, so I had made do with a jumper cable. Afterwards, I found and pulled the missing part from the extra frame that sits in the barn,

This 3B has a floor starter, which I usually bypass by pressing directly on the solenoid switch. I was surprised by the amount of heat generated on the switch and wires when grinding the starter. Is this normal, or might the wires be too light?

Got the first pair of wheels and replacement tires to the store for mounting. Tomorrow's plan is to get them back to the barn and swap them for the rear set - rinse, wash, repeat.
Thanks for replies and help! Jim

 

[JJS2]

The engine continues to run smoothly with gas poured into the carb. After having removed the fuel filter to replace it, today I first placed a tube and plastic bottle to catch what was coming out of the fuel pump (and to see that pump was performing adequately). What an ugly, discolored mess collected in the bottle.

I pulled the gas tank. I see no leaks, but the contents and interior include chunks of rust, stale-smelling fluid, and scale. I'll do some searches for tank cleaning and sealing products, but how have any of you proceeded? Can anyone recommend a product? An outside service? I'll also Search the site for postings.

Meanwhile, now at least I have four good tires on the ground, and so I actually can crawl under the 3B. Sadly, one thing I soon discovered down there is that what I thought was an overdrive lever between the seats is for a rear PTO. After mounting the 4th tire, I changed the oil & filter this morning, and began going through the lube procedures. Hopefully soon, a relocation to our home.

 

[JABJEEP]

Hopefully soon, a relocation to our home.

That will make all the difference! Off-site Jeep projects are worse than long distance romances.

 

[JJS2]

I agree, now having had experiences with both.

I think I'll put a light chain and vinegar in the tank, and rattle it on the cargo tray on the back bumper for several days. In the meantime, I might just use a boat gas tank in the short term.

 

[JJS2]

Progress (?) Update:
I have rinsed and re-installed the gas tank, after cleaning the fuel line until it ran clear, cleaning sludge from the fuel pump, and replacing the filter and the rubber fuel lines. Besides that, I've changed most of the fluids, and greased the zerk fittings. Got JD Corn Head grease into the knuckles.

The Go-Devil will run so long as gas is dumped into the carb, so on the return to the barn I'll test that the fuel pump is still performing, there's no obstruction in the lines, and that the fuel line clamps are tight.

I'm soaking the frozen brake bleed screws. With new fluid in the master cylinder, the pedal pumps up minimally. I still need to purge the old fluid. I have a parking brake cane & cable to install. After resolving the fuel issues (Perhaps I should have simply gotten a new tank?), and getting the brakes functioning - Gee, that sounds so easy! - it could be nearing time for an actual tour around the barnyard. The clutch pedal feels funky, but I think it functions.

Now that there is a set of aired-up tires, I've been able to crawl beneath the CJ to do work. While under there, I've seen that the hat channels are shot, and some fiberglass and hardware cloth (wire mesh) has been used to rebuild the bottom of the tool box and some body areas. It's pretty rough. I'll consider addressing those issues after the thing is moving reliably. And then there's that F-head waiting to be revived...

Some things have been moved from the barn, so I've gained some space. Anyone in the market for a restorable Wagemaker-brand (Grand Rapids, MI) runabout boat?? There are perhaps fifteen there to choose from - most with their vintage trailers, and outboard engines.

 

[Tralehead]

Some things have been moved from the barn, so I've gained some space. Anyone in the market for a restorable Wagemaker-brand (Grand Rapids, MI) runabout boat?? There are perhaps fifteen there to choose from - most with their vintage trailers, and outboard engines.

Well, I'm a boat guy but have absolutely no experience with that brand. BUT... I'd love to see pics and maybe offer some tips. May be in a PM? Meanwhile, it's really been fun reading your progress with your new to you 3B. Keep up the good work and post some pics of the Jeep.
BTW, I noticed the bow of one of the boats in an early pic and was going to ask about it, but didn't want to throw you off the Jeep story.

 

[JJS2]

Continuing...
I'd come to suspect that loose rust from the gas tank was clogging the fuel lines, as no gas seemed to be flowing from the line or into the fuel pump. I'd hoped to keep to vintage parts as much as possible, but today I surrendered, and ordered a new tank. I have again checked the fuel pump's screen, rubber hose lines, in-line filter, and replaced all of the clamps on hoses. So next, I'll be draining the tank for removal, and then once again purging the fuel line. Hopefully, this will get things flowing. Oh- I noticed a petcock on the pump -with a needle at its end. How should that be adjusted?

I've begun to get into the brake systems, too. I have ordered more missing e-brake parts, and am routing the cable, following Scott Blystone's suggestions. There's a bunch of grease and crud trapped around the (bent) skid plate.
Then, after repeatedly soaking the wheel cylinders' brake bleeders for weeks (PB Blaster and Kroil), I tried to crack a front one open. It twisted off. So I also ordered a spindle socket wrench, but that can wait.

Some brighter notes: So far the Jeep isn't spotting any of the new lube onto the floor. But once it moves any distance, that very well could change. Also, during brief sessions of running the engine by pouring fuel directly into the carb, the clutch operated well, and the gauge showed good oil pressure. Also, I found a rear seat frame in the barn, so I slid that in. The springs and burlap are there, too. The rear seat frame has remnants of original grey upholstery.

One other bit of news, is that a friend has offered space in his plant's warehouse: Lights! Electricity! Shop tools! Heat...somewhat. And access to the Jeep in winter! The building is a few miles closer to home, but still about a 20-30 minute drive from home. I'm unsure of what will be the plant's security arrangements. Such as, can I get access during nights or weekends? Perhaps by Spring I will be far enough along to move it home.
Carrying on!

P.S. Bob: I've taken some pictures of the boats. My friend, their owner, isn't excited about my posting them online. I'll try to figure how one sends PMs and send them to you. Jim

 

[1955cj-5]

My fuel pump has a petcock also....I'm going to guess that it is a drain, maybe for moisture accumulation...??

Anyway, I keep it turned to the right till tight!



And I turned the picture, but the computer turned it back!

 

[rocket]

If you don't have a filter before the pump those bits of rust can get on the pump flapper valves and cause them to not seal or pump.
I usually try to put a filter before and after the pump.

 

[JJS2]

Thanks, Rocket. The filter is between the tank and the fuel pump - since yesterday. The original (to me) filter position was after the fuel pump. If solids get into the works of the pump, is the next step a rebuild?

Edited: "...works of the pump", not filter.

 

[rocket]

I had a filter at the tank on one of my old cars. About every other time I drove it, I had to lay under it pull the filter and blow it out backwards. Coming home from Reno Nv. Hot August Nights beside the freeway when the filter plugged up, I decided to pull the tank the next day and take it into the local Radiator shop to have it boiled and sealed. Never had another issue.

 

[JJS2]

Thanks, again. I’m expecting the delivery of the new tank, tomorrow. I should have known better than to use one of the old ones.

 

[JJS2]

I drained and pulled the old tank. I saw no bits of rust or other solids in the gas I captured as I drained. The fuel line had no obstruction, and gas I poured into it flowed freely and clean into a bottle at the other end (disconnected from the fuel pump). After cranking a bit (before the tank was out) and then checking the fuel pump, it was dry. I removed the pump’s top, tried priming by filling it with gas, and reassembling. Then did my usual dump of gas into the carb, and it ran perhaps a bit longer, but not very long. I am going to use the new tank ,even though the old one doesn’t seem to have been contaminating anything, because the old one has epoxy (JB Weld?) areas which I suspect are allowing some gas seepage onto the floor of the tub.

I also added the two missing ground cables, so now I can quit using a jumper cable as a substitute. The starter seems happier, too.

The e-brake cable is fighting me. I am laying on the barn floor. I don’t have the Jeep on Jack stands now, so movement can be challenging - even for a little shit like myself. I decided that dropping the skid plate would be a good option, but it’s pretty badly bent, and wouldn’t you know, wedged against the final bolt to be removed (fwd. pass. side). I am glad I saw the state of the plate, though, because it was in contact with the driveshaft.

Since there have been questions about photos, I will attach a few. These can be considered as “before” - still in the same place as for the past 25-30 years. And still coated with dust.